Object won't adhere to smooth plate (well enough)  

RE: Object won't adhere to smooth plate (well enough)

If the part detaches from the bed, it is due to a contaminated bed or a too high Z level.
If the bed is contaminated with fingerprints, clean it best with warm water and detergent, wipe with paper.
You can use isopropanol (99%) for easier cleaning (I use it very rarely).

If your Z level is too high, there will be small gaps in the first layer.
Then lower the nozzle until the first layer is smooth and completely tight.

RE: Object won't adhere to smooth plate (well enough)

And try adding a brim if your first layer is already perfect.  I have found that orientation on the bed for tall parts can limit the "shakes loose" issue (inertia is still in play, so shaking is a factor).

If your part is long and tall, and oriented along the X axis, reorient it along the Y axis (the shaking impact is less pronounced because you then pick up a lot of angular momentum that helps keep the part on the bed).

RE: Object won't adhere to smooth plate (well enough)

Posted by: @newreclaimer85

Dear Support,
i have the MK3s Plus. Since today I have the problem that the object will at some point lose adhesion to the plate. [...] I am cleaning the plate with isopropanol before each print.

This is typically due to poor adhesion resulting from some combination of print surface contamination and/or poor Live-Z (1st layer) calibration. It might be due to other issues, but it's a good idea to eliminate the basics before making printer or settings changes. You need to get a good first layer down as the foundation for your print in any case. Here's a big ol' info dump on the topic:

• Part warping or lifting along edges.
• Bumping or knocking noises as the part moves under the nozzle.
• Uneven vertical surfaces and bulges caused by print lifting and compression of overlying layers.
• Spaghetti resulting from parts moving during printing.
• The dreaded "blob of doom" caused by the part lifting and sticking to the nozzle as it extrudes filament.

• A dirty PEI print surface. Even if you don't think this is the cause, it's always a good idea to make sure your PEI surface is clean before trying any other fixes. If it's a smooth PEI sheet, take it to the kitchen sink and give it a good dunk with Dawn (original formula, no vinegar or hand softener variants) dishwashing soap or your local equivalent (e.g. Fairy in UK). Use a clean paper towel to clean it off, and another to dry it. Avoid using any sponge or cloth that has been in contact with grease. Above all else, avoid touching the PEI print surface. Once it's good and clean, you should be able to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol between prints, 100% acetone when that fails , and another dunk when acetone fails. Worst-case, use a 3M 7445 ScotchBrite (1200-1500 grit) pad or equivalent on smooth PEI to give it a very light buff, but only infrequently. If you've got a textured powder-coated PEI print surface, the official instructions are to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol on it only. Rumors persist that some have had good luck getting started with these sheets by giving them a wipe with 100% acetone and a dunk with Dawn. Either way, there's no real warranty on these sheets. YMMV.
• If you have not already done so, try using Jeff Jordan's "Life Adjust" procedure for calibrating your Live-Z setting. It is much easier to use and understand than the onboard routine and much easier to make mid-print adjustments accurately with. In general, start high (less negative) and work lower (more negative) in large increments (e.g. 0.1mm) until the filament starts to stick on its own. When you've got your Live-Z setting adjusted properly, you should be able to gently rub the extruded lines on the PEI surface without dislodging them.  Then start lowering (more negative) the level until there are no gaps between layers. You should not be able to peel the lines apart after printing, but the top should be regular. 

RE: Object won't adhere to smooth plate (well enough)

Thank you for all the responses. I did a lot of cleaning before and also the 1st layer calibration is fine (done multiple times). I guess I will do more cleaning, then.