INDX and "Full Spectrum" prints  

RE:

I own an XL and tried this with the (ugly) default 0.2mm profile from OrcaSlicer.

The blue isn't true blue, it's blue/white alternances, as for the grey that is black/white.

The critical part is to find a way to "easily" get and feed your filament specs, because the color blending can be way out of spot.

This attempt's results is more a less something like the "Chicken 1.0" from the authors.

What do you think? Do you have a U1 and have you tried this? Would you like to see this working with the Core One INDX?

Frankly, I am always astonished at the efforts people make to avoid simply painting their models or (Hueforge) 2D printing photo paper and maybe 3D printing the frame.  Curating the range of working basic colours and keeping all the spools dry is going to be a nightmare.

Cheerio,

RE: INDX and "Full Spectrum" prints

If I print out a picture on paper, I would not be happy if I had to then break out the paint brushes to get color on there. 

Likewise, full color 3D printing is something to strive towards for those of us who don’t want to do time consuming, skill dependent post processing. 

Full Spectrum looks really cool to me, and would be great to have such functionality for C1 + INDX. 

Posted by: @diem

What do you think? Do you have a U1 and have you tried this? Would you like to see this working with the Core One INDX?

Frankly, I am always astonished at the efforts people make to avoid simply painting their models or (Hueforge) 2D printing photo paper and maybe 3D printing the frame.  Curating the range of working basic colours and keeping all the spools dry is going to be a nightmare.

Cheerio,

 

RE:

Posted by: @diem

What do you think? Do you have a U1 and have you tried this? Would you like to see this working with the Core One INDX?

Frankly, I am always astonished at the efforts people make to avoid simply painting their models or (Hueforge) 2D printing photo paper and maybe 3D printing the frame.  Curating the range of working basic colours and keeping all the spools dry is going to be a nightmare.

Cheerio,

 

Frankly, I am always astonished at the responses by some of the users here. "You want to do X? Why would you do X? You should do Y instead" too many times. Is it an European thing? There's always a few people like that on forums, but they seem to congregate here.

I don't want to paint my models -- I have hand tremors so I've never been pleased with the results. And for the kinds of things I want to do (transparent / art prints, hollow objects, PVB etc) unless you have a novel way to paint the inside of a print, that won't work. People use Hueforge because the effect looks neat, quasi-3D, not because they can't afford an Epson inkjet. I actually have Hueforge (and a TD1 to measure transmission distance more accurately) and it's fun. It's not what I'm trying to do here.

RE: INDX and "Full Spectrum" prints

Posted by: @kachidoki

I own an XL and tried this with the (ugly) default 0.2mm profile from OrcaSlicer.

The blue isn't true blue, it's blue/white alternances, as for the grey that is black/white.

The critical part is to find a way to "easily" get and feed your filament specs, because the color blending can be way out of spot.

This attempt's results is more a less something like the "Chicken 1.0" from the authors.

I think that turned out pretty good for a trial print! Certainly nice enough to give a friend or kid as a gift. I would recommend trying one of the Biqu TD1 meters recommended by the Hueforge folks. My friend with a U1 borrowed my TD1 and found it so useful he bought his own. 🙂 The RGB values can be rather off (especially for violet) but that is easier to guess and check on screen than the transmission distance.

RE: INDX and "Full Spectrum" prints

https://x.com/BambulabGlobal/status/2044397315486785838

Hopefully coming to Prusaslicer soon.

RE: INDX and "Full Spectrum" prints

Am I correct to assume that this color mixing only works (well) on pretty vertical walls? The more slanted or rounded an object becomes, the wider the stripes of the primary, non-mixed colors will be, right? And horizontal surfaces must always have one of the available primary colors.

So how is this used in real-world objects? Print the main body in a primary color and add some "decorations" (with close-to-vertical surfaces) in mixed hues?

RE: INDX and "Full Spectrum" prints

Posted by: @jurgen-7

Am I correct to assume that this color mixing only works (well) on pretty vertical walls? The more slanted or rounded an object becomes, the wider the stripes of the primary, non-mixed colors will be, right? And horizontal surfaces must always have one of the available primary colors.

So how is this used in real-world objects? Print the main body in a primary color and add some "decorations" (with close-to-vertical surfaces) in mixed hues?

Here is a pretty good demo/explanation on a U1:

RE:

The perfect C1 setup for me. Maybe with the other 3 nozzles 0.25

ideally without the front plate so that I can see what is going on

RE: INDX and "Full Spectrum" prints

Instead of CMYKW I woudld rather go:

1. Blue PLA

2. Green PLA

3. Red PLA

4. Black PLA

5. White PLA

6. Any color for PETG for supports

So 6 would be perfect.

Regarding PrusaSlicer support, I guess hyiger did already a port via AI in another thread.

RE:

Why would you use RGB?  RGB works for emissive colors (like TV screen or LEDs), but for absorptive colors (like your paper printer or 3D printer) CMYK works best.

Posted by: @_kaszpir_

Instead of CMYKW I woudld rather go:

1. Blue PLA

2. Green PLA

3. Red PLA

4. Black PLA

5. White PLA

6. Any color for PETG for supports

So 6 would be perfect.

Regarding PrusaSlicer support, I guess hyiger did already a port via AI in another thread.

RE: INDX and "Full Spectrum" prints

Yes I know that, it was more about additional filaments such as support ir tpu, not the colors precisely.