Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!  

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

Glad it worked with the idler arm, i always try to keep mods to the bare minimum 🙂

Hello Cédric.

Yes, that's true. I completely lost sight of the modified idler. I had only seen that it would be nicer to place the bend of the filament around the extruder drive. But it works now 😉

Printed right out of the box on prusa nylon settings, have you modified anything except temps, i never put effort into calibration of the print parameters?

I actually only adjusted the temperatures. Everything else was taken from the “Prusament PC Blend CF” profile.The filament is now dry, and I can print this hook from CNC Kitchen to see what it can withstand. I think this will be the first good practical test for my Prusa C1 HT.

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

Posted by: @jan-d-slay

Glad it worked with the idler arm, i always try to keep mods to the bare minimum 🙂

Hello Cédric.

Yes, that's true. I completely lost sight of the modified idler. I had only seen that it would be nicer to place the bend of the filament around the extruder drive. But it works now 😉

Printed right out of the box on prusa nylon settings, have you modified anything except temps, i never put effort into calibration of the print parameters?

I actually only adjusted the temperatures. Everything else was taken from the “Prusament PC Blend CF” profile.The filament is now dry, and I can print this hook from CNC Kitchen to see what it can withstand. I think this will be the first good practical test for my Prusa C1 HT.

Would be nice if you could print several standing hooks from 290-330 degrees and try to load it heavy to see if there is a measurable difference in what it can take. But maybe its more practical to use a smaller hook, depending on what equipment you have, its not that easy to find so many weights 🙂

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

I will test it 😉

RE:

Hello, everyone.

I hope I haven't forgotten anything and that everything works with the GitHub fork.

This was the first time I uploaded something like this. The AI was a great help.

If anyone would like to test it, here is the link:

https://github.com/jandslay/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy-Core-One-HT450

All further tests with PPA-CF and PPS are still to come. I have another big project running in parallel with the Prusa XL, and the little Core One usually has to take a back seat 😉

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

Hello everyone.

I had some time again to continue working on my Prusa Core One HT450.

I implemented a Volcano mod today. I wanted to redesign the fan shroud so that I could use the longer Volcano heating block for other filaments as well. Today, I had the idea of simply shortening the block.

No sooner said than done. Now I can continue to use the original Prusa nozzles and there is enough space compared to the original Prusa heating block for the PT1000 sensor and the heating element plus cable.

Currently, a Benchy is printing with Siraya Tec PPA-CF, and tomorrow the fan cowling will be made from PPA-CF instead of PCCF.

And then finally, the hook I wanted to print plus the heat shield will be added.

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

To make sure everything is neatly arranged and to finally resolve this issue with the filament feed, I moved everything to the LEFT today.

https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/postid/785823/

I didn't actually plan to do that today, but that's just how it turned out.

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

Posted by: @jan-d-slay

Hello everyone.

I had some time again to continue working on my Prusa Core One HT450.

I implemented a Volcano mod today. I wanted to redesign the fan shroud so that I could use the longer Volcano heating block for other filaments as well. Today, I had the idea of simply shortening the block.

No sooner said than done. Now I can continue to use the original Prusa nozzles and there is enough space compared to the original Prusa heating block for the PT1000 sensor and the heating element plus cable.

Currently, a Benchy is printing with Siraya Tec PPA-CF, and tomorrow the fan cowling will be made from PPA-CF instead of PCCF.

And then finally, the hook I wanted to print plus the heat shield will be added.

Hey good job mate. Why didnt you try the copperhead block?

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

Hey good job mate. Why didnt you try the copperhead block?

I have that. You must be referring to the “Prusastyle” copper block that looks exactly like the aluminum block?Unfortunately, the block doesn't have enough room for the PT1000 sensor. Even if you enlarge the hole so it fits completely, the cable on the sensor has to be bent quite sharply to get past the heatsink.The Volcano block has a different layout for the holes for the sensor and the heating element. Unfortunately, it’s too long, and I wanted to start by working with the original fan shroud.

RE:

No that is the polis copper block which I have, but I was considering the slice engineering copperhead block for the hotend upgrade, even though I think the prusa design is probably a bit better because it moves the sensor to the other side of the heater block away from the heating element. So you will measure the temperature after some kind of block wide equilibrium. But it could be something worth trying if you are impatient.

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

But it could be something worth trying if you are impatient.

“Impatience” describes it perfectly. Well, you've finally installed firmware that can go above 290 degrees, but you can't really test it because the heating block won't let you—there's just not enough room.

For now, I've solved the problem with the wiring harness. It was easier than I thought.

Aktuell druckt der Prusa Core HT die neue Lüfterhutze mit Heizschutzkammer.

Ich berichte.

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

I did a dry fit and it did have enough space. Also for most high temp filament you probably don't need cooling at all right? So maybe a solution is just removing the cooling fan and channel rather than modifying it as I was originally thinking to do.

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

So maybe a solution is just removing the cooling fan and channel rather than modifying it as I was originally thinking to do.

You're right, and I had already planned to do that. But I still want to use the C1 for other standard filaments. My Goldesel is clogged, so I'll have to make do with an XL and a C1 for now.When printing Benchys with PPA-CF from Siraya Tec, I noticed that cooling is important even though it isn’t required by the manufacturer. For print objects or print areas that are very small, where the hot filament remains in one spot and can’t cool down quickly enough, the fan needs to help out.I’ve only just begun my analysis and experimentation with PPA-CF, primarily with Siraya Tec.

RE:

I'm considering doing this mod as I have some PPA-GF I want to try.  Does this latest solution use the same files you uploaded to Printables?  Other than a longer ptfe tube and some anchors for the swing arm are there any other additional parts required?

Thanks

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

Yes siraya has some nice filaments and I bought some of that ppa too even though in the end I think for my application toughness is a more important metric and it seems this ppa is quite brittle. I also have some tpu that I need to print but I struggled to feed it into the nextruder through the filament sensor so I am not sure what to do about that but anyway that does need to be cooled. So yeah maintaining the ability is important. I think minimum layer time is a useful feature in general for the benchy details you mentioned if you want to maintain the mechanical properties that these filaments offer. I wonder if the pccf would actually melt if you use the copperhead lol. Guess there is only one way to find out.

RE:

I'm considering doing this mod as I have some PPA-GF I want to try. 

I would appreciate it if another C1 owner could confirm my experience.

Does this latest solution use the same files you uploaded to Printables?

I've uploaded two new files to Printables—Version 2.0

These two new files no longer have the angled cable outlet. For now, a single cable tie is holding the cable harness in place. However, I'll design another version that routes the cable harness upward.

Other than a longer ptfe tube and some anchors for the swing arm are there any other additional parts required?

To stabilize the setup, I used the plastic cable strip from the Prusa XL to extend the metal arm flexibly all the way to the Nextruder and to add more mounting points.

I wonder if the pccf would actually melt if you use the copperhead lol. Guess there is only one way to find out.

That’s actually a good question. My current fan shroud is still from the original Prusa PCCF, and the copper heat block is right next to it. It hasn’t warped yet.But I’m going to replace it with the PPa-CF fan shroud I just printed. Better safe than sorry.

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

That’s actually a good question. My current fan shroud is still from the original Prusa PCCF, and the copper heat block is right next to it. It hasn’t warped yet.But I’m going to replace it with the PPa-CF fan shroud I just printed. Better safe than sorry.

Yeah sounds like a good solution. I don't think there is any load so creeping shouldn't be an issue even though I am not clear on how PPA behaves in this regard. If there is any issue could go with PPS

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

I purchased this 500c heater block, it's dimensionally the same as the Prusa original.  Along with this heater cartridge and this thermistor probe.  Basically, I'm trying to build my own high temp hotend to match the $200 Prusa model soon to be for sale. Those parts plus a heatbreak adapter have me right at $50.

However, the thermistor probe is about 2.5 mm longer than the recess in the block.  I could drill out the block a bit (maybe 1mm?)but not enough to get full penetration.  Will having that small amount of the thermistor exposed create accuracy issues?  At this point I'd prefer to find a shorter probe over a larger heater block.

I appreciate any suggestions.

RE:

That’s exactly what I had planned. I couldn’t pull it off because, despite drilling a deep recess in the heating block, the sensor cable at the top of the heatsink kept getting pinched there. With the Volcano block, the layout is completely different: the nozzle is in the middle, the sensor is on the right, and the heating cartridge is on the left. With this layout, everything runs past the heatsink and up to the Loveboard.

Find a PT1000 sensor that's the same length as the PT100 sensor 😉

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

I'll probably put it all together and install it this weekend to test fit.  I'm not seeing in my mind what the thermistor would get pinched on.  Maybe it sticks up further than I'm imagining.  

I didn't spend a lot of time looking at other heater blocks once I found this one.  The Prusa high temp hotend does seem to have a heater block more like what you describe. 

I wonder if I I could mill one from a block of copper?  I'm not current on my thermodynamics or metallurgy but these all seems to be some sort of copper alloy.  Would solid copper make a good heater block?  I could see it being too soft for threads.

RE: Prusa Core One HT – Finally, it's done!

Posted by: @john-weaver

I'll probably put it all together and install it this weekend to test fit.  I'm not seeing in my mind what the thermistor would get pinched on.  Maybe it sticks up further than I'm imagining.  

I didn't spend a lot of time looking at other heater blocks once I found this one.  The Prusa high temp hotend does seem to have a heater block more like what you describe. 

I wonder if I I could mill one from a block of copper?  I'm not current on my thermodynamics or metallurgy but these all seems to be some sort of copper alloy.  Would solid copper make a good heater block?  I could see it being too soft for threads.

There are 3rd party HT heat blocks made from nickel plated copper. This is what I use. They are (apparently) rated to 500°.  They are drop-in replacements for aluminum except you should run PID and store your PID parameters in the startup g-code.