RE: Stringing with buddy petg - what is wrong
Dry the filament. Maybe try changing the nozzle temperature +- 5°C, but I usually solve these tiny stings by lightly burning with a gas torch. Don't try it with a lighter, the flame must be sharp and just run over the print quickly.
RE: Stringing with buddy petg - what is wrong
Yes, that hair-fine stuff seems to come free with some/all PETG. I haven't found any settings that affect it much. The drier the better, but it never seems to go away completely. It's easy enough to brush off with a stiff brush or torch it away.
RE: Stringing with buddy petg - what is wrong
Thanks for the replies. I keep my fillaments dry at all times. I got a heat gun that works OK, but I wished for a perfect petg print and was hoping there is a setting or tweak I missed in my research.
But thanks a lot anyways for sharing your experience!
RE: Stringing with buddy petg - what is wrong
I don't print PETG anymore and use PCTG as a replacement. It's more expensive than PETG but the prices are coming down. It prints the same but without stringing and it has better impact and chemical resistance.
RE: Stringing with buddy petg - what is wrong
Thanks for the tip. My storage is full of PETG for a project right now. I have to print some rolls bevor I try the PCTG. But I diffenetly will make a test run. The material sounds very good for hydroponic gardening projects.
RE: Stringing with buddy petg - what is wrong
Thanks for the tip. My storage is full of PETG for a project right now. I have to print some rolls bevor I try the PCTG. But I diffenetly will make a test run. The material sounds very good for hydroponic gardening projects.
Will your hydroponic projects be exposed to UV light either artificial or outside? If so, then the best choice is ASA and not PETG.
RE: Stringing with buddy petg - what is wrong
One unrelated comment: If surface quality degrades with faster print speed - the test in the 2nd picture - you might give the high flow nozzle a shot.
I've run the test on a different printer with short ("standard flow") and long ("ultra high flow") hotends. With the short hotend, it shows clearly in surface quality that the material needs more time to melt than it gets, when speed goes up. With the longer melt zone, the surface remained uniform. This may be obvious - the purpose of a high flow nozzle - my point is the degradation shows gradually in surface quality (not catastrophically) and surprisingly early on the flow rate scale.




