First Layer calibration not working after replacement of Hotend (MK3S+)
 
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First Layer calibration not working after replacement of Hotend (MK3S+)  

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hditter
(@hditter)
New Member
First Layer calibration not working after replacement of Hotend (MK3S+)

I recently had a lousy printing result, leading to a nozzle and hotend covered with filament residuals. I must say that up to that moment, my printer (kit) delivered flawless results. As I did not want to go into changing the nozzle and cleaning up the heat block, I bought an entire pre-assembled hotend; only the PFTE tube was missing, which I took from the spare parts of the kit. Assembly and swap were pretty straightforward, self-test and calibration without problems. However, since then, I cannot print a proper first layer any more. I have ripples all over; see the enclosed pic.

What I tried so far: I aligned the idler, checked the idler of filament residuals, and checked the alignment through the open idler door, and all seems to be good. I tried to loosen or tighten the idler door screw, but no change. Filament loads, Filament sensor works, Pinta Sensor works. I ran out of ideas. I can exclude a clogged nozzle because it is a brand-new Prusa V6 E3D. The Filament I tried in the pic is PLA, though the results with any other (new) filament are the same. I sense that it has to do with the extruder, but 

Best Answer by Diem:

Your first layer is way too high.   You need to lower it until it squished into a sheet.

If the value goes boyond -2 then you may have nudged your (super)PINDA out of position, look at step 16 of:

https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-superpinda-mk3s-mk3s_179920

Cheerio,

Opublikowany : 15/03/2023 3:36 pm
Diem
 Diem
(@diem)
Illustrious Member

Your first layer is way too high.   You need to lower it until it squished into a sheet.

If the value goes boyond -2 then you may have nudged your (super)PINDA out of position, look at step 16 of:

https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-superpinda-mk3s-mk3s_179920

Cheerio,

Opublikowany : 15/03/2023 5:15 pm
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Stefan
(@stefan-3)
Estimable Member
RE: First Layer calibration not working after replacement of Hotend (MK3S+)

As I did not want to go into changing the nozzle and cleaning up the heat block, I bought an entire pre-assembled hotend

That looks to me like a quite expensive luxury 😀 

A dirty heat block from the outside does not influence your printing result.

When it is heated up, you can wipe off plasic from the outside with a thick piece of cotton from an old T-shirt.

And to clean the nozzle inside, do a cold pull.
The Prusa PLA silver delivered with the printer works very well for this.
Set the hotend temperature in Settings  to 88 or 89 °C and let it cool down to this Temp. and pull slowly - works excellent for me. 

Opublikowany : 15/03/2023 5:57 pm
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FoxRun3D
(@foxrun3d)
Famed Member
RE: First Layer calibration not working after replacement of Hotend (MK3S+)

I agree with Diem. It's more likely than not that a new hotend will significantly affect the height of the nozzle. This test looks like a nozzle way too high.

Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- until all hell broke loose with the forum software...

Opublikowany : 15/03/2023 11:19 pm
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hditter
(@hditter)
New Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: First Layer calibration not working after replacement of Hotend (MK3S+)

Thank you for your answer. Here is what I did: I removed the steel sheet, moved the Extruder/nozzle down until it touched the heatbed (not squishing - I had a sheet of printer paper in between), then moved the extruder to the centre of the x-axis, lowered the Pinda and moved it up, till I could move a (Prusa Kit) zip-tie under (again not squishing the Pinda into the zip tie). I then did a Z calibration and two rounds of first-layer calibration print. First round, I started at -1000 and ended at -1.400, finally showing better results at -1.400. I then did a second print, this time beginning with -1.400. You can see the result below:

 

It seems that -1.600 would be the result, but it is probably still subject to further fine-tuning. I never had a Z-Correction number so small. I probably would have needed to get the Pinda sensor even higher. I measured the zip-tie with a calibre, and it showed 1.18 mm. I could pull the zip tie from under the Pinda with only a little force.  Shall I leave it like this or do another round of calibration, starting with the Pinda Level? 

Here is another photo from the bottom of the print (to me, -1.550 looks best): 

Opublikowany : 16/03/2023 9:02 am
Diem
 Diem
(@diem)
Illustrious Member

You are definitely in the ballpark, try it with a few simple prints before committing to a big job.

Cheerio,

Opublikowany : 16/03/2023 12:28 pm
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