Blob destroyed what exactly?  

RE: Blob destroyed what exactly?

Hi, 
I cannot see the pictures, 
from experience I would get two hot end thermistors and at least one heater... the heaters are more robust than the thermistors and their wires... so there is a chance that your heater is Ok. so hopefully, after the repair you will still have a heater and thermistor, for next time... Lol...
I had a blob earlier in the week, and from experience I left the plastic there it was, used the preheat command to keep it hot from the inside, and used a soldering iron to carve the bulk of the blob off from the outside, working carefully towards the wiring. 
after I removed the bulk of the blob, most of the remainder fell off...  it's a slow job, but saves breaking wires ans havong to rebuild the hot end and it's wiring... 

ensure that you get the remains of your blob from inside the cooling fan shroud and be careful with Blobbits around the Pinda probe...

regards Joan 

RE: Blob destroyed what exactly?

Dear Joan,

thanks for your quick reply. Hope you can see the pictures now? 

So I should order two hot end thermistors and and one heater?

Thanks for your help.

Eva

RE: Blob destroyed what exactly?

Posted by: @coosontwerpt

Dear Joan,

thanks for your quick reply. Hope you can see the pictures now? 

 

So I should order two hot end thermistors and and one heater?

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Eva

 

Get use to those occasionally. Improper assembly of the hot end can cause that, but more commonly a failed print.

I picked up a complete spare hot end the last time my wife got one. It's still in the bag & waiting for the next blob though as I cleaned things up well enough & didnt break anything. Thermistor wires are the most fragile, followed by heater wires. A full hot end let's you just replace the whole thing to get going, then clean the bobbed one later while getting back to printing. You may have to hurry rig the old hot end back to the controller to heat it up, or just drop some voltage to the heater manually to start melting the center of the blob.

Preheat the hot end & try remove plastic. The soldering iron idea sounds smart, but I've used some wire cutters & tweezers to trim & pull chunks off. The hard part is not stressing or breaking the thermistor wires & to a lesser degree the heater wires.

RE: Blob destroyed what exactly?

@fallon

I'd also put an E3D silicone cover for an E3DV6 hotend over your new heater block and run a hotend PID tune. The silicone cover will help prevent blobs sticking to the hotend heater block and should assist with keeping your hotend temperatures stable (as long as you run a PID tune with the cover on.

RE: Blob destroyed what exactly?

Posted by: @jonathan-lin

@fallon

I'd also put an E3D silicone cover for an E3DV6 hotend over your new heater block and run a hotend PID tune. The silicone cover will help prevent blobs sticking to the hotend heater block and should assist with keeping your hotend temperatures stable (as long as you run a PID tune with the cover on.

I ran one for a while & actually have several new ones in my parts box. My issues are generally PETG sticking to the nozzle rather than the heater block itself. The new style socks only cover the block & not the nozzle (the old style sock covered the nozzle & only had a small hole for the tip of the nozzle, which apparently caused some of it's own issues). I'm sure I'll be kicking myself hard for not putting them on next time it blobs on the hot end, but for now I'm only getting some minor blobs on some of the prints where I get a little accumulation on the nozzle, then it drops off. I'm building a Lack enclosure for mine at the moment, might sock it when I pull the power supply to put it in the enclosure.

I'm not sure I've gotten a PETG nozzle blob, at least other than an improperly tightened nozzle after some maintenance. But my wife got a few with PLA. Those were generally because of prints that got knocked loose & a spaghetti monster started those.