Test print looks a bit odd
(Assembled from kit, if it matters; went through all the calibration steps; the only one which seemed iffy was the First Layer Calibration, where it was hard to tell if it was "squished" enough.)
I printed the Prusa test pattern, and the logo looked pretty good, but had some "spots" on the letters, and I wasn't sure why. Photos below, would appreciate if anyone had any insight into whether that's normal, and if not, what I should try. Thanks!
RE: Test print looks a bit odd
Your first layer looks a little bit high.
The top looks like you are over extruding... (I think this print tends to look like that) when I did that print, I started the print a second time, and reduced the flow rate to 90%
(Prusa slicer already reduces flow rate for layer heights above 0.075mm, to 95% flow rate, I am not entirely sure why this is some folk speculate that it is because the flow rate is calculated for an oblong filament cross section, whilst the actual filament cross section has rounded sides which effectively make them take up more room, even allowing for squish) another possibility is that your filament has a lower 'ideal' print temperature, and this causes the plastic to be more molten than normal, and there is correspondingly less back pressure, which allows for greater flow.
Have you considered re slicing the STL, using generic PLA standard settings. see if that makes a difference
Regards Joan
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: Test print looks a bit odd
Thanks for your reply! I figured whatever came with the SD card would be sliced correctly for the filament it shipped with , but perhaps that was my mistake in assuming 😀
I will look around for the STL and try to re-slice.
My area is high humidity (Hawaii) if that makes a difference as well...
The Prusa logo gcode is specifically designed to be as easy as possible to print, even with a poorly set up machine and low quality fulament. I presume it is intended as a morale boosting 'hey look it works!' marker for new builders to know they have suceeded - more or less.
An opposite type of print is the Benchy, specifically designed to be extremely difficult to print well as a test of every fine adjustment; it should be accompanied by instructions not even to attempt it in the first month of use. After a running-in period and your first regular maintenance it might help with calibration but it's perfectly possible to make a great many decent prints without managing a perfect Benchy.
A print dryer of some type, I use a lightly modified food dehydrator, will prevent a lot of printing issues.
Cheerio,
RE: Test print looks a bit odd
The Prusa logo gcode is specifically designed to be as easy as possible to print, even with a poorly set up machine and low quality fulament. I presume it is intended as a morale boosting 'hey look it works!' marker for new builders to know they have suceeded - more or less.
To clarify then, I shouldn't expect the best quality with settings as distributed? Sorry, I'm a complete n00b so I'm not sure how it's supposed to look on a properly calibrated machine 😀
A print dryer of some type, I use a lightly modified food dehydrator, will prevent a lot of printing issues.
Do you keep spools in there all the time except when printing? Or just spare spools for longer term storage?
Thanks!
RE: Test print looks a bit odd
The gcodes on the SD are definitely below par. That includes the benchy. Don‘ t print them, slice your own code using Prusa slicer and default „0,2 mm quality“, „Prusa PLA“ and „MK3S/MK3S+“ settings for starters.
As long as you are not living in a swamp or in tropical climate you will be fine for your first two or three spools of PLA. In normal humidity conditions (40-55% rel humidity) they will be gone before they go bad (assuming you are having fun with your new printer). But if you get more spools and store them for some time between use or get other materials like PETG, ASA, Nylon etc you will need dry boxes and a dryer.
All materials profit from being stored in a low humidity storage. PLA is the most robust material and deteriorates not that drastically, it starts to get brittle first and later you will also get extrusion and stringing problems. As said, your first spool will be long gone before that happens, think about dry boxes before you open half a dozen filaments. Get a dryer before trying out PETG or you will be in for disappointment…
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you.
Find out why this is pinned in the general section!
Every user builds their printer slightly differently and pre-built models are shaken up in transit so during the first few weeks of use the printer will run-in and settle its parts together; then you will have to go over the basic maintenance checks, lubricate and recalibrate. Even if you got everything dialled in perfectly today, it would all need re-doing.
Better to settle, temporarily, for a basic working printer and get some useful printing done, make your early mistakes, establish a routine and generally get used to the process. Then when you do your one month service you can take extra care knowing the new settings on your now stable printer are likely to last for several months.
I generally dry every spool after printing, together with its dessicant packs, and then store in ziplock bags and boxes. If a spool has been stored for more than 3 or 4 months I will usually dry again before printing. For a long print with PETG I have deliberately started with a dry spool whilst drying another ready to cut the first and switch over after 12 hours or so. This only works if you buy multiple spools of identical filament.
I am planning some long FLEX prints and will use the tactic with that filament too but I expect to be switching more often.
Cheerio,