Re: About ready to toss this thing...
Hey Jason, I've been using AMAZ3D PLA filament without any problems on my Prusa i3 (Einstein variant). So I think it is OK as far as filament quality goes. Also, it's been out in the environment for over 2 months now & it doesn't seem to be very susceptible to moisture ingress. (I try to keep the RH in my house under 45%). With respect to slicing, I'm using simplify3d also with pretty good results. Since my Einstein variant uses a Bowden extruder, the tweaking I made may not be very compatible to the MK2. However, for a 0.2" primary layer height, I've been using 200%, 100% & 75% for first layer height, width & speed, respectively. You might try reducing the speed down even further; like 40% to see if that helps. I found that a 100% primary layer height was almost impossible to achieve on my Einstein. I should try to see if a different filament would help in this situation.
Marc
Re: About ready to toss this thing...
For me, the main function of a brim is to give me time to adjust the 'live z-adjust'. So when the actual part starts printing, the first layer is squished flat.
While printing a 10mm brim, you can see (I use magnifying goggles) how changes to z-adjust change the first layer.
Re: About ready to toss this thing...
Hey Jason, I've been using AMAZ3D PLA filament without any problems on my Prusa i3 (Einstein variant). So I think it is OK as far as filament quality goes. Also, it's been out in the environment for over 2 months now & it doesn't seem to be very susceptible to moisture ingress. (I try to keep the RH in my house under 45%). With respect to slicing, I'm using simplify3d also with pretty good results. Since my Einstein variant uses a Bowden extruder, the tweaking I made may not be very compatible to the MK2. However, for a 0.2" primary layer height, I've been using 200%, 100% & 75% for first layer height, width & speed, respectively. You might try reducing the speed down even further; like 40% to see if that helps. I found that a 100% primary layer height was almost impossible to achieve on my Einstein. I should try to see if a different filament would help in this situation.
Marc
Thanks Marc,
I figured out what the issue is - my z adjustments where just not enough. What I did was to print a test of circles across the bed, just one layer @ 200um then I measure with a micrometer. Turns our at my original settings the layer would end up being .30 - .35 so it was just not low enough. I moved it down an appropriate amount and it is working much better. Event the filament that was not working so great works fine. I also increased my bed temp for Prusa filament to 65 degrees.
Amz3d does work even better thought, I agree. It's the only one I am going to buy from now on.
Thanks to everyone in this thread for your help. I am very grateful for all your help.
Jason
Re: About ready to toss this thing...
For me, the main function of a brim is to give me time to adjust the 'live z-adjust'. So when the actual part starts printing, the first layer is squished flat.
While printing a 10mm brim, you can see (I use magnifying goggles) how changes to z-adjust change the first layer.
Thanks Michael,
That's a good idea, I will keep that in mind for next time. For now I just print the first layer and measure, this seems to be working well for me.
Jason.
Re: About ready to toss this thing...
For me, the main function of a brim is to give me time to adjust the 'live z-adjust'. So when the actual part starts printing, the first layer is squished flat.
While printing a 10mm brim, you can see (I use magnifying goggles) how changes to z-adjust change the first layer.
Thanks Michael,
That's a good idea, I will keep that in mind for next time. For now I just print the first layer and measure, this seems to be working well for me.
Jason.
Do you print the first layer, stop the print, take the layer off the bed and then use calipers?
If so, then what thickness do you accept as the right one? I suppose what your slic3r program states as the first layer height?
Great idea, I have to check this out. It has been bugging me that I have no way of making sure the first layer is perfect.
Re: About ready to toss this thing...
For me, the main function of a brim is to give me time to adjust the 'live z-adjust'. So when the actual part starts printing, the first layer is squished flat.
While printing a 10mm brim, you can see (I use magnifying goggles) how changes to z-adjust change the first layer.
Thanks Michael,
That's a good idea, I will keep that in mind for next time. For now I just print the first layer and measure, this seems to be working well for me.
Jason.
Do you print the first layer, stop the print, take the layer off the bed and then use calipers?
If so, then what thickness do you accept as the right one? I suppose what your slic3r program states as the first layer height?
Great idea, I have to check this out. It has been bugging me that I have no way of making sure the first layer is perfect.
That is what I have been doing. Just remember 2 things.
1. Your first layer settings might not be set to 100% in your slicer, so make sure you calculate what the layer should be or change it to 100% for testing.
2. Look at the display on the printer it will confirm how 'high" it thinks it is while it is printing. (you will see Z 0.20 for example)
I also use this for bed level correction, print the first layer of circles (or squares, or whatever) the left, right, top and bottom positions of the bed. Then measure each one and correct in the menu.
The other thing I do is measure the width of the line, if I am getting the right height, but the width is too fat (or thin) I knock the extrusion multiplier down (or up) and reprint. You might find it difficult to measure just one outline so I print several (say a perimeter of 4 lines @ .5mm thick (or what ever settings you are using), so your line should be 2mm).
I am a newbie at this and if anyone with more experience has any reason this is not a good idea let me know. All I know is after doing this the filament I was using the was not working at all and was the worse of all I have, now prints the best. I was able to generate settings that are printing 100% reliable for that filament.
I switched filaments and I have found I need to do this again as it's not the same due to the differences in the plastics. I found this approach works better than relying on eye balls.
Also note that you will not get 100% uniformity there will always be slight differences +/- a bit. The important thing is to get it close and on average the height you are looking for.
The easiest way to get a file to print is just pick anything that you have and tell the slicer to stop printing at X height (where X is your first layer height). You will have to print this a lot but it's relatively quick. You will just have lots of circles everywhere to clean up.
Jason