RE: The Satin Sheet Thread
As a side note I just had my first layer shift mess fail, it involved the Pinda hitting blobs of the CF PETG I had just switched to. 16 Y crashes
anyway, I put the smooth back on, and found it FLC at a different # now, much closer to the satin. so, for me, the mystery shifts to mebbe the pinda moved last week while messing with the nozzle
RE: The Satin Sheet Thread
Thank you for this detailed response!
so what is the guidance when transitioning from the PEI sheet to the Satin sheet as far as Z calibration ? do is it roughly different by .5 mm as was mentioned in the post by meicalnissyen
I don’t own the smooth PEI sheet, only the textured and the satin (which are nearly the same thickness) so I may not be the best person to reply…
Start by creating a sheet profile for the PEI sheet (assuming that’s your default) so you don’t lose the value you have dialed-in for that. Then create a new sheet profile for the satin sheet (assuming that’s your new one). Use the procedure outlined here:
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955
Run the built in live z calibration to find a starting point for a proper z value for the new sheet. Once you have square corners and a solid flag at the end of the run, use your preferred method to fine tune and lock in the z value for the new sheet. That’s it.
I generally run one of the 75 mm X 75 mm X 0.2 mm squares from Jeff Jordan’s ‘Life Adjust Z - my way’ routine for fine tuning. You can find it here if interested:
Now you have two sheets with profiles set in firmware that you can swap between as needed and never have to ‘start from scratch’ for your z value again, unless it drifts or the nozzle wears, or you get a finicky filament, or you move your printer, or one of the million other 3D printing gremlins comes to visit 😉.
It should be that easy (famous last words) but keep you finger near the kill switch when you run the first calibration just in case something unexpected happens.
Good luck!