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tomtim
(@tomtim)
Member
More and better LEDs in the core one...

Hi, so I now have a Prusa Core One, but the lighting was much too dark, especially if you want to mount a C920 at the top left.

So I ordered 1 metre LEDs with covers so you can't see the LEDs. Cut 3 x 30 cm aluminium profiles and attached them to the top with magnets. Cut through the LED strip, soldered on the plug and out at the back right, and off to the power supply (incl. fuse)...

 

It looks perfect and turns on and off with the printer.

 

Napsal : 08/03/2025 6:22 pm
Pionator
(@pionator)
Active Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

can you show more pictures on how its inside and installed? and do you feed directly from the sunlu dryer?

Are you happy with the machine when it comes to noises?

 

Thanks a lot for sharing. 

Napsal : 08/03/2025 7:11 pm
tomtim
(@tomtim)
Member
Topic starter answered:
RE:

I am not completely satisfied. The software is already 4 weeks old and the printer still has many problems

no i am use the sunlu only extra dry...

- vibrations are too strong

- adjustment at start or filament change... sometimes 50 x noise in the corner

- internal fan cannot yet be controlled via the slicer and you have to switch off the fans at the back for every print because they are simply much too loud.

Napsal : 08/03/2025 7:56 pm
Pionator se líbí
Pionator
(@pionator)
Active Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

Thanks a lot I did upgrade from the mk3s to mk4s with the upgrade kit and its not bad when it comes to noise still noiser than what I wish, but I'm waiting for the core one kit and I think I may be disapoint with the noise. 

Im planing to make a big enclosure for the two printers the mk4s and the core not for temperature only for the noise. 

Napsal : 08/03/2025 8:03 pm
Brian
(@brian-12)
Prominent Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

Looks good.  Any pictures of the installed LEDs and how you connected them to the controller board?

Napsal : 08/03/2025 8:10 pm
tomtim
(@tomtim)
Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

The LEDs have a connection cable 1m long. You can get out of the case at the back right (there are 2 large holes) and then to the connections on the board... there.

The LEDs are operated at 24V like the motherboard. The power supply has enough power for that. But we have added an extra fuse to the cable for safety reasons. But I don't have any pictures of that now and everything is screwed on.

Unfortunately, I can't print at night anymore because the printer is just way too noisy.

Napsal : 08/03/2025 8:20 pm
Pionator se líbí
Jürgen
(@jurgen-7)
Honorable Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

I have been wondering how the LEDs will fare when operated inside that heated chamber.

Prusa does not seem to mind that much -- the white lights are mounted to the cross bar which sits fully inside that chamber, and hence heats up to the full chamber temperature. The colored status LEDs must run even hotter since they will see some conducted heat from the bed. But the color LEDs are only specified up to 80°C junction temperature, i.e. the temperature of the active semiconductor junction which is further increased by the LED's internal heating losses. We don't have specs for the white LEDs, but they are probably similar. 

So it's likely a better idea to attach the LEDs to the enclosure frame as you did, so they can use that as their heatsink. The metallic frame parts will sit at a temperature somewhere halfway between the chamber and the room temperature.

But you would need good thermal contact. Directly sticking an adhesive LED strip to the frame should be much better than using an extra carrier rail and just attaching that with magnets.

Napsal : 08/03/2025 9:02 pm
altaic se líbí
FoxRun3D
(@foxrun3d)
Illustrious Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

I think I will end up doing something similar this spring with my C1's. The built-in LEDs are just way too anemic. One of a handful of areas Prusa dropped the ball IMHO.

Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- https://foxrun3d.com/

Napsal : 08/03/2025 9:47 pm
tomtim
(@tomtim)
Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

The LEDs don't get that warm. There are a lot of small ones 🙂 You're just worrying too much. I always deactivate the fans and it's about 50 degrees in the chamber with PETG. The LEDs are also monochrome and of high quality. Not cheap stuff.

Napsal : 08/03/2025 9:51 pm
Brian se líbí
tomtim
(@tomtim)
Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

Here is some more information:

 

When the printer is switched on in the morning and the first print is started... the printer moves to the front corner for almost 3 minutes and occasionally reports a collision, but then continues. When it has finally done it (there is no visible collision because it is already far from the print bed), it starts...

Although all temps are off... he waits - absorbing temp until the temperature drops from 170 to 100 (8:40 min). and then back up to 170 to measure the board.

If you've had Prusa for years and always installed alphas and betas – even with the MK4 and MMU3 hack – then Core One is an alpha software 🙂

The printer is running, but the safety measures are still so high that even two floors below, my wife is asking if everything is okay or if I'm hitting a metal sheet with a hammer 🙂

Napsal : 09/03/2025 7:21 am
altaic, Brian a Pionator se líbí
Pionator
(@pionator)
Active Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

wooow this is really sad I did order the kit version and now after reading you im really thinking about it if it was a smart move or not. I had been loyal to prusa but honestly thinking that this was a good move comparing to the babu x1 and im not really sure about it. Prusa needs to step up their game or it will be over. Thanks so so much for the feedback, Im thinking to build my own enclosure with wood and sound panels specifically for the noise and probably I will make one for my mk4s and the future coreone too. I shouln't be like this if its enclouse already. 

Napsal : 09/03/2025 7:31 am
tomtim
(@tomtim)
Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

please wait, in 8 Weeks we have hopefully a better firmware

Napsal : 09/03/2025 8:36 am
Brian a Pionator se líbí
FoxRun3D
(@foxrun3d)
Illustrious Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

My guess is they wanted to stay as close as possible to their original release timeline for the C1 so they separated the firmware development from the firmware for the other printers. Things like the excessive banging at the start, the layer shift bug  etc have already been fixed for the other printers and will make it into the next C1 firmware release. The usual growing pains we saw with the XL, Mk4 etc. 

Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- https://foxrun3d.com/

Napsal : 09/03/2025 10:38 am
mander a Brian se líbí
tomtim
(@tomtim)
Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

We've been experimenting a bit over the last two days... installing a Logitech C920 properly. But that's not the real thing yet... Let's see, we've ordered a small Full HD camera, let's see if we can get it mounted better. It gets louder when we go to bed today. The printer will run for another hour 🙂

 

Napsal : 09/03/2025 6:38 pm
Sembazuru
(@sembazuru)
Noble Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

I've been thinking of when I get the MK4S -> CORE One conversion kit, replacing the included white LED strip with a COB strip like what you used here to eliminate the hotspots of the individual LEDs of the OEM strip. (I have a soldering iron and shrink tube, and I'm not afraid to use them. LOL)

What voltage is the OEM white strip run at? 24V? 5V? Something else?

See my (limited) designs on:
Printables - https://www.printables.com/@Sembazuru
Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/Sembazuru/designs

Napsal : 06/05/2025 9:40 pm
tomtim
(@tomtim)
Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

Hi Sembazuru, 

yes, 24V to connect with a fuse to the powerboard 🙂 We make the same with our set if it is delivered 🙂 

Napsal : 07/05/2025 6:15 am
iftibashir
(@iftibashir)
Noble Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

Ive been quite happy with how much quieter this printer actually is compared to my previous printers (MK3s through to the 4s).......

Main noise is from the rear fans, but otherwise its a very quiet printer IMO......

Click here for VIDEO BUILD GUIDES + 3D Printing Tips!

--> Core One - MK4 - MK4S - MINI+ - MMU3 - Accelerometer Guide <--

Napsal : 09/05/2025 11:25 am
LarGriff se líbí
Mercur12
(@mercur12)
Eminent Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

The COB LEDs are already on my shopping list (LED-Konzept.de). However, I haven't found any information about their temperature resistance. I would glue them directly to the frame.

Are the original LEDs adjustable or just on/off?

If the fans are the main cause of the noise...isn't there a way to replace them with quiet Noctuas?

What specifications do the fans have? Do they have standard dimensions and are they controlled via PWM or voltage regulation?

Any information is welcome...

Napsal : 11/05/2025 7:57 am
FoxRun3D
(@foxrun3d)
Illustrious Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

Ive been quite happy with how much quieter this printer actually is compared to my previous printers

I have only one so far (two more are coming—hopefully—soon) but yeah, it's not really bad. I would say the MK4S's sitting next to it are quieter but the XL is louder. 

Formerly known on this forum as @fuchsr -- https://foxrun3d.com/

Napsal : 11/05/2025 11:20 am
StanleyB
(@stanleyb)
Member
RE: More and better LEDs in the core one...

 

Posted by: @tomtim

- adjustment at start or filament change... sometimes 50 x noise in the corner

Two days after receiving the finished set I had the same problem.

Apparently the assembly is not yet as precise as Josef would like.

But I just solved this problem...This constant knocking is caused by uneven tension of the belts on both sides.

Solution:Turn off the printer, pull the horizontal bar with the head in the middle as far forward as possible. Set the head in the middle.

Now take a hex key to be able to turn the screws in the front through the adjustment hole of the tensioner (left and right side separately).

There is only one hole on the vertical beam, you should have guessed.

Turn it left/right half a turn at a time while squeezing the front strut and the head rail next to the tensioner several times with your hand until you feel that there is no play and both rails do not affect each other with movement. It is as if you were squeezing two parts and felt that neither of them was moving anymore...

If you do it right, the next time the head will knock about 5 times and stop.

BTW. This is explained in the manual, but I allowed myself a more free interpretation 😉

 

 
 

 

 

Napsal : 11/05/2025 10:53 pm
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