Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
The tips below are intended to be used in conjunction with the Palette 3 / P3P getting started guide.
Firmware: Update both the Prusa Mini and the Palette 3 / P3P to the latest released firmware before attempting calibration. Note: Check both the Prusa Forum and the Mosaic Form for any known issues before doing the firmware upgrade.
USB Connection Issues: If you have problems with the USB connection between the Mini and the P3/P3P, do a factory reset on the Prusa mini / mini+. If this doesn’t resolve the issue, then contact Mosaic Support.
WiFi Connection Issues: The Palette 3 / P3P only connects to 2.4Ghz networks. Some special characters in the network SSID will prevent the Palette 3 from connecting to Wifi.
Output tube / clip configuration: The Prusa Mini doesn’t require attaching the guide tube clip to the extruder body. Using the existing input tube makes inserting filament into the extruder.If you have the external filament sensor installed, remove it. Do not remove or shorten the input tube to the extruder.
- Use the short output tube (57CM). Since the filament will be fed into the printer’s input tube the guide clip isn’t needed. You can optionally put it on the output tube to make it easier to handle the output tube when inserting the filament into the printer.
- Enter the calibration data for the profile (assumes stock length Bowden and input tubes):
- Load Offset – 352 mm
- Output Tube – Custom Length – 76 cm
- Note: The custom length is needed to adjust for the extra length of the printer’s input tube and to have enough filament to reach the extruder gears. You can lengthen or shorten the output tube custom setting to adjust the filament length so that the printer will print a full purge line at the start of the print. You can think of adjusting the output tube length to get the full purge line as setting the home position for the filament. If you do need to adjust the length use 1 cm increments and repeat as needed.
Canvas Settings:
A. Enable the Serial Printing Screen on the Prusa Mini.
- Open the printer profile’s settings menu
- Click on Sequences (gcode)
- In the “Start of print” sequence add to the very first line: M876 P1 ;This causes the Mini to switch to the Serial Printing Screen.
- In the “End of print” sequence add to the very last line: M876 P0 ;This causes the Mini to switch to the Main Screen
B. Setting the Bowden Tube setting to reduce the amount of waste filament at the end of the print.
- Open the printer profile’s settings menu
- Click on Extruder.
- For the stock extruder and input tube, change the setting for Bowden tube length to 385. Note: This setting is set properly when there is just enough filament let so that the extruder can move the filament to unload it.
C. Link to my Mini’s Canvas printer profile so you can check my settings or import them: https://share.canvas3d.io/printers/f026c2d973ec2813e841c086acce33b7
Starting the print with Smartload:
- At the feed extruder prompt there should be a few inches of filament extending from the output tube. Place the filament into the printer’s input tube until it is against the extruder. Note: If the filament isn’t long enough to reach the extruder gear, that means the output tube length is too short. You need to cancel the print and add a few cm’s to the output tube length setting. If you just pull filament from the output tube, you will throw off the calibration, so the palette isn’t in sync with the starting position of the print. This also applies to the MK3. I know some of the palette videos have you pull out the filament, but not doing so saves a lot of time trying to get the splice positions back in sync.
- Don’t clip the guide tube clip. The output tube will be pulled against the input tube of the printer. Just click on next at the prompt.
- Click on smartload and make sure that the filament is being pulled into the extruder gears. You may need to give the filament a little push to get it engaged. Look at the extruder gear (open inspection door) to make sure it is turning.
- Due to the length of the Bowden tube, it is possible/likely to have a timeout and have smartload stop with an error about no filament movement detected. Click on OK and then click on smartload again to restart the process. Repeat as needed.
Any updates or corrections to the above tips will be made as rely to this topic, so please check the replies.
Please reply with with questions or corrections / feedback to this topic.
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
I have had my Mini+ for about 6 months now and could never figure out how to set it up with Palette 3 Pro. This guide is EXTREMELY easy to follow and works great. Thank you so much for this guide!
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
Thank you so much for this Starting out tips !!! Can’t thank you enough !!! Works very well !!!
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
Does your printer ever just stop moving when using the P3P? Mine does every so often during a print and doesn't move again until I hit pause and resume a few times. Sometimes even that doesn't help.
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
I haven't had any freezes since Palette 3 firmware v22.04.19.0
I am currently running v22.06.02.0 and will upgrade to v22.08.11.0 in the next few days.
Also does your startup gcode have M876 P1 in it to set the serial print screen ? This sets the display input for only selections available from the serial print screen. Menu selections from other menu pages can confuse the palette 3.
What slicer are you using ? Canvas or PP2P with Prusa slicer ?
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
I am running v22.08.11.0, but I had the same issue with v.22.06.02.0. I have had the same issue before and after adding the M876 P1 line to the gcode. I am using the canvas slicer.
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
I just managed to set up P2PP and ran this print.
The transitions all came early and it stopped making filament too soon, but it mostly worked, no pauses.
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
Have you done any longer prints? Can any of this apply to the MK3S+?
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
I haven't done any longer prints on using Palette 3 Pro with my Prusa Mini +. Also, I'd assume it would be the same concept with the MK3S+, except you would have a different offset (top of the direct drive to the nozzle).
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
Have you done any longer prints? Can any of this apply to the MK3S+?
The longest print that I have done with the Mini+ with the Palette 3 Pro is 31 hours with 7 colors. Completed without any issues.
For this print I used P2PP to slice the model.
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
How often are you using P2PP vs Canvas for your prints?
Have you done any longer prints? Can any of this apply to the MK3S+?
The longest print that I have done with the Mini+ with the Palette 3 Pro is 31 hours with 7 colors. Completed without any issues.
For this print I used P2PP to slice the model.
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
I haven't done any longer prints on using Palette 3 Pro with my Prusa Mini +. Also, I'd assume it would be the same concept with the MK3S+, except you would have a different offset (top of the direct drive to the nozzle).
The concepts are the same except the tube lengths are different. You will want to use the offset length generated for the MK3+ when you do the printer setup.
The process for the output tube is similar to the mini+.
I would start with a custom output tune that is 25mm longer than what the length of your output tube is to start. Then check to see if you can get the filament into the extruder gears without pulling any filament out of the output tube /Palette. The goal is to adjust the length of the output to so that the printer to have enough filament to have a full purge line. You can think of adjusting the output tube length to get the full purge line as setting the home position for the filament. You may have to adjust the output tube length a few times to dial in the settings.
Other differences:
Don't add the M876 command to the custom gcode. It isn't needed since the MK3 doesn't have a serial print screen.
From the MK3 LCD menu set Filament sensor to Off and autoload to Off. You need to let the palette control the printer during the filament loading.
Let me know if you have questions.
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
I haven't done any longer prints on using Palette 3 Pro with my Prusa Mini +. Also, I'd assume it would be the same concept with the MK3S+, except you would have a different offset (top of the direct drive to the nozzle).
The concepts are the same except the tube lengths are different. You will want to use the offset length generated for the MK3+ when you do the printer setup.
The process for the output tube is similar to the mini+.
I would start with a custom output tune that is 25mm longer than what the length of your output tube is to start. Then check to see if you can get the filament into the extruder gears without pulling any filament out of the output tube /Palette. The goal is to adjust the length of the output to so that the printer to have enough filament to have a full purge line. You can think of adjusting the output tube length to get the full purge line as setting the home position for the filament. You may have to adjust the output tube length a few times to dial in the settings.
Other differences:
Don't add the M876 command to the custom gcode. It isn't needed since the MK3 doesn't have a serial print screen.
From the MK3 LCD menu set Filament sensor to Off and autoload to Off. You need to let the palette control the printer during the filament loading.
Let me know if you have questions.
Is this needed if you use P2PP? Sorry for all the noob questions
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
I haven't done any longer prints on using Palette 3 Pro with my Prusa Mini +. Also, I'd assume it would be the same concept with the MK3S+, except you would have a different offset (top of the direct drive to the nozzle).
The concepts are the same except the tube lengths are different. You will want to use the offset length generated for the MK3+ when you do the printer setup.
The process for the output tube is similar to the mini+.
I would start with a custom output tune that is 25mm longer than what the length of your output tube is to start. Then check to see if you can get the filament into the extruder gears without pulling any filament out of the output tube /Palette. The goal is to adjust the length of the output to so that the printer to have enough filament to have a full purge line. You can think of adjusting the output tube length to get the full purge line as setting the home position for the filament. You may have to adjust the output tube length a few times to dial in the settings.
Other differences:
Don't add the M876 command to the custom gcode. It isn't needed since the MK3 doesn't have a serial print screen.
From the MK3 LCD menu set Filament sensor to Off and autoload to Off. You need to let the palette control the printer during the filament loading.
Let me know if you have questions.
Is this needed if you use P2PP? Sorry for all the noob questions
Yes, it is needed no matter which slicer you use.
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
Thanks for the information. I will try this out tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
So I made some of those adjustments and the prints just struggled. So I reverted back and it was printing great. I will however have a prusa mini come Christmas, so I will probably set that up as my dedicated P3P device.
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
Hello, did everything described here, and everything goes well but only 1 thing I don't get right, that's the first splice, color, even with multiple layers, that color is always to shirt and the next color is coming to soon. Tried everything from loading offset changes on the Palette 3 Pro, to adding extra Brim, purging volumes, but not getting it right. It looks like the first color need some 60mm extra filament to get it right. Al other transitions and color changes are at the right time and place, so no problems there. Please help!
Using Prusaslicer and P2PP plugin, not Canvas, because that's not working for me!
RE: Starting out tips for using the Palette 3 / Palette 3 Pro with the Prusa Mini/+
First restore the load offset back to the original setting (352 mm) and get everything back to original values.
Increase the Output Tube length until the colors sync up. You should be getting a full purge line on the print bed.
You can think of adjusting the output tube length to get the full purge line as setting the home position for the filament. If you do need to adjust the length use 1 cm increments and repeat as needed.
If that doesn't work, take a picture of the print bed when filament starts to come out of the nozzle and one of the first layer colors and post it so I can see what it happening.
RE:
I decided to try P2PP with the P3P. Well, that was the ticket for better results. Got this ornament painted up and got it nailed. I have also posted it to printables as a remix ( https://www.printables.com/model/340692-santa-yoda-mmu-edition ) for those that would like it. Thanks for the tips here.