RE: Different Hotends
After playing with the settings to get a weird banding in y-axis resolved, i figured, going through the initial calibration again might help and it did.
Now i have a mini on steroids, running with the bowden extruder and a copperhead hotend assembly. yesterday i was able to do my first 6 hour print without any problems. took some time and money but now it's the machine i hoped for when i ordered it.
RE: Different Hotends
It mostly depends on what material you print with. With PLA, PETG and the like there will probably be no problems with the standard hotend. The first problems came up when I tried to print XT-CF20. The original hotend tended to get clogged and sometimes the compression fittings came loose. The E3D V6 hotend was and still is the cheapest functional solution for me.
The MK3 doesn't mind helping out its small brother with spare parts.
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen.
RE: Different Hotends
@karl-herbert
I had problems with Prusament PLA, any print over 40-45 mins would clog. Perpetual heat creep is my guess.
RE: Different Hotends
@kevman
Do you print in an enclosure or are the ambient temperatures too high? Maybe the extruder motor is getting too hot. In this case, you can actively cool it with a 40x40mm fan.
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen.
RE: Different Hotends
@kevman had the exact same problem with prusament galaxy black. extruder started clicking after a while and then just a big blob above the hotend. i didn't try that filament in my new setup yet. will tell, if it works now.
RE: Different Hotends
@karl-herbert
I had problems with Prusament PLA, any print over 40-45 mins would clog. Perpetual heat creep is my guess.
Hi can you please provide details?
even an old man can learn new things 🙂
Standard I3 mk3s, MMU2S, Prusa Enclosure, Fusion 360, PrusaSlicer, Windows 10
PRUSA MINI+ Prusalink + Prusa Connect
RE: Different Hotends
You guys with the Mosquito are you see any print time improvements? Thinking of going Mosquito route and was just wondering. Its not top priority but would be a bonus to the reliability i expect to get from the Mosquito.
RE: Different Hotends
You guys with the Mosquito are you see any print time improvements? Thinking of going Mosquito route and was just wondering. Its not top priority but would be a bonus to the reliability i expect to get from the Mosquito.
@rockytoptim
The main reason I believe for the mosquito upgrade is for an increase in reliability and better support for high temperature filaments. I have not tried pushing my printer to go faster although that's certainly something you can investigate.
RE: Different Hotends
@rockytoptim
The plus to the mosquito in my book is higher temperature printing.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Different Hotends
I'm about to installed @4nthonylin shroud and cooling duct mod. Any tips for installation ? Also anyone have pics of the process and final assembly ?
RE: Different Hotends
I am setting up one of my mini's with an easy change tool setup. The goal is to swap hotends in 5-10 minutes or less.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Different Hotends
@kevman
You can mostly follow these instructions: Prusa Knowledge Base | How to replace a heatsink (MINI) (prusa3d.com) for disassembling the hotend heatsink. For the x-carriage for the cooling, you will have to remove the end which should just be two screws and popping out. Then pulling out the belt from the x-carriage. Let me know if you have any questions however don't have a full guide with pictures made.
Best of luck!
RE: Different Hotends
It mostly depends on what material you print with. With PLA, PETG and the like there will probably be no problems with the standard hotend. The first problems came up when I tried to print XT-CF20. The original hotend tended to get clogged and sometimes the compression fittings came loose. The E3D V6 hotend was and still is the cheapest functional solution for me.
The MK3 doesn't mind helping out its small brother with spare parts.
Karl what material did you use for the E3D V6 bracket? It will not touch any hot parts so I guess it could be printed with PETG?
Original Prusa Mini + Smooth PEI
Prusa Slicer 2.6.0
RE: Different Hotends
@3dprintedgr
I reprinted all the printerparts of the Mini with ASA Durapro. So far, I have not experienced any problems with melted or broken printed parts.
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen.
RE: Different Hotends
@karl-herbert
Hmm, ok did you use an MK3s to print the parts? I am asking because I only have the MINI and haven't tried ASA yet on it.
Original Prusa Mini + Smooth PEI
Prusa Slicer 2.6.0
RE: Different Hotends
@karl-herbert
I used ASA and PC Blend for parts. Same results.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Different Hotends
@3dprintedgr
The mini will print ASA.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Different Hotends
@3dprintedgr
Printing ASA is possible with the Mini without any problems. I print almost exclusively ABS and ASA with it. The Mini practically printed itself.
Statt zu klagen, dass wir nicht alles haben, was wir wollen, sollten wir lieber dankbar sein, dass wir nicht alles bekommen, was wir verdienen.
RE: Different Hotends
@cwbullet
I have seen the specifications but for some reason I was afraid to try even though I always wanted to. Maybe because I don't have an enclosure and the temperature of the room that the printer is located is around 22C to 23C. I will order one and will try the tips from Prusa posts(custom skirts) and see how it works. Any other tips that you recommend?
Original Prusa Mini + Smooth PEI
Prusa Slicer 2.6.0
RE: Different Hotends
@kevman
You can mostly follow these instructions: Prusa Knowledge Base | How to replace a heatsink (MINI) (prusa3d.com) for disassembling the hotend heatsink. For the x-carriage for the cooling, you will have to remove the end which should just be two screws and popping out. Then pulling out the belt from the x-carriage. Let me know if you have any questions however don't have a full guide with pictures made.
Best of luck!
Thanks so much!! Did you print with supports ? I'm planning on printing the parts out tonight.