Different Hotends  

RE: Different Hotends

@kevman

No, I made sure to design everything without supports 🙂 just make sure it's in the proper orientation! Also make sure you also do the low profile heatbed cover mentioned in the prints page.

RE: Different Hotends

Has anyone used the adapter for the Mosquito hot end that is linked from the Slice Engineering website to the prusa printers.org site posted by woraphot?

https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/36125-mosquito-mount-for-prusa-mini

How does it compare to the ones in this thread?

woraphot says it works using PETG while the recommendations here are for ASA or PC.  

RE: Different Hotends

@boatbuilder

I don't have experience with woraphots adapter however he was the first on the thread to try the mosquito and release his designs. His will work just fine and PETG will work fine since the mosquito runs cool already however ASA or PC just for the extra peace of mind. If you do print as high temperatures for ASA and PC blend normally, I would use either. However if you are limited to PETG or PLA, then PETG will be fine.

RE: Different Hotends

@4nthonylin

Thanks. This Mini is my only printer and I’m hesitant to try ASA/PC with the stock hot-end, even with the Bondtech heat break. It is printing fine right now but I am looking for better reliability. 

Related question: Do you know which of the mounts has the least offset from stock?  Yours, Malcolm’s or woraphot’s?

RE: Different Hotends

@boatbuilder

Malcom's and mine are identical at: X=0.5mm, Y=-6.625mm, Z=~1mm

Woraphot's should have the least at: X=0mm, Y=-1.5mm, Z=~1mm

You can do what I did which was print PETG for the first mount, then using the Mosquito to print in ASA/PC Blend.

RE: Different Hotends

Posted by: @4nthonylin

You can do what I did which was print PETG for the first mount, then using the Mosquito to print in ASA/PC Blend.

Thank you for the numbers.

I think I will do as you suggest and start with woraphot’s version in PETG and then use that to print in ASA since that will probably also require an enclosure so it will not warp.  The enclosure will be easy, but building a vent system may take a little time     .

As soon as the warranty is expired on my Mini I am going to break the “tab” so I can move things like the offsets and the step adjustments on the Bondtech dual extruder from the slicer and put it in the printer’s memory.  

RE: Different Hotends

@boatbuilder

No problem! One thing to note was I had no issues printing my parts without an enclosure on the MINI. Just needed to implement some of the tips here ASA Prusament is here! Learn everything about the successor to ABS! - Prusa Printers to create an oval skirt that is the height of the model to protect from drafts. The models are small enough that there is no significant warping even without a brim.

RE: Different Hotends

I just ordered a Mosquito hot end and some boron nitride paste.  The instructions say to let it dry a bit before heating it up to set it. 

What do you do if you ever have to replace the heater cartridge or the thermistor?   Can it be rehydrated or is it like 3M 5200 that takes thermite to remove?

RE: Different Hotends

@boatbuilder

I always use copper paste for the heatbreak, thermistor, heating cartridge and the small screws. This allows parts to be easy to remove without additional solvents, even after a long period of operation.
Components coated with boron nitride paste should also easy to remove without additives.
boron nitride app.: mould release, detaching and protective for high temperatures (up to 2000 °C), thermal conductor.

RE: Different Hotends

@boatbuilder

I use Slice's Boron Paste on both Mosquitos and Copperhead. It will turn chalky over time and makes removal really easy. If removing, then re-inserting, just wipe off the residue and reapply.

RE: Different Hotends

@jasii

I concur that is it great stuff!  I will be trying the copper stuff soon.  

RE: Different Hotends

@cwbullet

I once worked in stamping and mold making. For lubrication of highly stressed components we always used graphite-based Molykote (heat resistant up to 600Grad C.).
I have used copper paste for decades wherever heat affects fasteners. This allowed me to loosen screws on my old Audi diesel after 20 years without damage.

RE: Different Hotends

@boatbuilder

PETG will work fine.  However, I have changed my mount to ABS+ from ESUN.  The heat resistance is much better than PETG and will be more than adequate for the Mini.  Your stock hotend should print ABS+ without difficulty.  I print mine at 240/95 deg. C with about 20% fan. The bottom of fan shroud is the bit that takes the most heat.

I'd say you don't need ASA unless you want to have UV resistance.  ASA is essentially ABS with UV resistance is my understanding.

RE: Different Hotends

@woraphot

I concur.  PETG works for most parts unless you start print higher temperature matrials regularly.  The cable guide on the back of the extruder failed after about 8-10 prints because the nut melted through the pETG.  

RE: Different Hotends

Just adding to boatbuilders post, adding  a draft shield when using ABS without an enclosure is very effective.

RE: Different Hotends

@towlerg

Concur.  I prefer the enclosure for another reason - fumes. 

RE: Different Hotends

can someone tell me how to account for the offset in the printer ? I keep the plate forward but would rather change the offset to account for the mosquito hot end.

RE: Different Hotends

@kevman

You can use the M206 command, for the mount I'm using Prusa Mini Mosquito Mount | PrusaPrinters, I use  "M206 X0.5 Y-6.625" after mesh bed leveling command. Also I would suggest resetting the offset back to 0 at the end of the print. Also I would reset offset to 0 before homing. I saw some issues where having the M206 offset set would mess with autohome. This is a known bug and you can see the issue on github:  https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/issues/693

RE: Different Hotends

Posted by: @4nthonylin

@kevman

You can use the M206 command, for the mount I'm using Prusa Mini Mosquito Mount | PrusaPrinters, I use  "M206 X0.5 Y-6.625" after mesh bed leveling command. Also I would suggest resetting the offset back to 0 at the end of the print. Also I would reset offset to 0 before homing. I saw some issues where having the M206 offset set would mess with autohome. This is a known bug and you can see the issue on github:  https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/issues/693

Thanks! I'm using malcom's version, I assume its the same? also will your cooling duct work with malcom's version?

RE: Different Hotends

@kevman

Yep, Malcolm's version is functionally the same, just some improvements such as the ability to use the given M2.5 screws and being able to see the Mosquito logo. Cooling duct will also work with malcolm's mosquito mount.