RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Regardless of what the recommended print settings are, I’d do a temperature tower and go with that reveals. With the transition to the Mk4 from Mk3S, my nozzle temps went down substantially, which has carried over to the Core One (if not more so). Temps don’t need to be as high for layer adhesion when the print speed is increased: less time for the previous layer to cool.
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Definitely don't try printing PC on the powder coated sheet without washable glue stick - it will rip the surface right off the sheet.
First layer adhesion, warping and release after printing of many of these "specialty" filaments is often an issue. I use my "magic sauce" mixture of glue stick and Windex on the stock PEI sheet, and sometimes skirt / brim / draft shield and have had good luck with ASA, printed lots of it, PC, PA, TPU and will try others. You just have to learn each filaments characteristics. It's not PLA or PETG.
Regards,
Mark
RE:
I just finished printing several PC-CF parts on my powder coated textured sheet ... works fine, parts lifted as soon as the bed cooled below 50c. I think it really depends on the specific filament. That said, I'd probably not try some PETGs nor PC on the PEI smooth sheet (the laminated double sided PEI): that is a recipe for disaster (based on personal experience).
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
I have used Overture’s Easy Nylon with both my MK3S and mini+ with great success. I haven’t used it with my Core One yet. If I remember correctly, I started with the Taulman Bridge filament profile as a base and tweaked it from there starting with a temperature tower and an overhang and bridging test print to get it running well.
Once the filament profile was dialed in I probably went through 5 kilos of that filament over the years. It has been my go to nylon filament. I suspect it is very similar to the Polymaket CoPa filament.
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
I've just started a second PC Max print on the Core One - just finishing off the end of a very old spool I've had for years and just freshly dried - thought I blocked the nozzle but it turned out to be just filament tangle in the spool! So restarted - looks like its going to print like butter on the Core One. PC Max is now called Polymax PC so odds are if you see the old name the spool is a few years old. Generally I find old filament just fine from the big name manufacturers and Polymaker is no exception. Its printing like butter.
Tomorrow I'm going to give Fishy Filaments Porthcurno (recycled PA) a go, once its been through the requisite 24hr drying cycle.
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Take into account that filaments with fancy names like easy-PA or High temperature PLA aren't pure PA or PLA but blended with other materials. Easy-PA from Sunlu has a softening temperature lower than PLA. That says it all. Maybe it's easier to print but it's also much less resistant to heat than regular PA.. there's no free lunch.
In my experience, is much more effective to dry nylon for 3 hours at 85C than 24 hours at 65C. Besides, according to Czech manufacturer Fillamentum, you can't dry well some filaments below a certain temperature. For instance, they say that drying TPU at 50C for many hours is worse than not drying it at all, because at 50C this filament becomes more permeable to water and absorbs humidity faster. Fillamentum recommends 80 to 100C for drying their FlexFill TPU. They also advice against drying a TPU spool more than three times, else the polymer starts degrading.
Finally, beware of annealing PA or PC for too many hours. Just 2-3 hours at 90C or 5-6 hours at 80C. More than that and the mechanical properties start to go downhill.
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
@tim I certainly made that mistake early on with the smooth PEI sheet. I've been pretty much using the satin steel sheet for everything for a long time. I'm also a big fan of the glacier sheet but stopped using it as it gets in the way of my nozzle cleaning mod.
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
@tim I certainly made that mistake early on with the smooth PEI sheet. I've been pretty much using the satin steel sheet for everything for a long time. I'm also a big fan of the glacier sheet but stopped using it as it gets in the way of my nozzle cleaning mod.
Created my own version that works with the glacier sheet. After some testing I’ll post it to Printables and post it in the mods section
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Here is the result using polymaker PC max, dried to 25%
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Here is the result using polymaker PC max, dried to 25%
Do you anneal your prints as well? With Nylon I've found if I don't do that my prints eventually suffer from cold-creep.
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Here are my results with Sunlu Easy PA, dried at least 24 hours at 70 C. It's pretty good except for two corners that are rough and burnt.
Regards,
Mark
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Generally not, no. I might start doing so as I've been able to build bigger and more functional parts than I did on the Mk3
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Finally got the nylon dried. Had to make up a new profile for the first filaments as there isn't one anywhere. After a couple of failures got settings that worked, used magigoo pa on the satin sheet for this one... As I said, of it's dry and on the right surface it prints like petg.
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
I just printed these with the Sunlu Easy PA. They are pretty challenging, as there are a lot of overhangs and a small contact area on the bed, but they printed OK.
Regards,
Mark
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Holy crap! I pulled out a roll of Prusament PP Carbon Fiber... and that stuff is pricey! (I only have one roll, so maybe I'll not use it for this.)
Now where did I put that nylon....
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Holy crap! I pulled out a roll of Prusament PP Carbon Fiber... and that stuff is pricey! (I only have one roll, so maybe I'll not use it for this.)
Now where did I put that nylon....
My PP-CF is cursed. It's tightly wound and easily became unspooled. My go-to Nylon is now Siratech PPA. Fibron PA6-CF20 is just too stiff and messy to work with.
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Holy crap! I pulled out a roll of Prusament PP Carbon Fiber... and that stuff is pricey! (I only have one roll, so maybe I'll not use it for this.)
Now where did I put that nylon....
My PP-CF is cursed. It's tightly wound and easily became unspooled. My go-to Nylon is now Siratech PPA. Fibron PA6-CF20 is just too stiff and messy to work with.
Nice... comes in 1Kg spools and it much less overall than Fiberon.
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Holy crap! I pulled out a roll of Prusament PP Carbon Fiber... and that stuff is pricey! (I only have one roll, so maybe I'll not use it for this.)
Now where did I put that nylon....
My PP-CF is cursed. It's tightly wound and easily became unspooled. My go-to Nylon is now Siratech PPA. Fibron PA6-CF20 is just too stiff and messy to work with.
Nice... comes in 1Kg spools and it much less overall than Fiberon.
I guess the only downside (for me) is it's glossy and not matte. However, it's easy to print and super strong.
RE: PA - Nylon Printing
Holy crap! I pulled out a roll of Prusament PP Carbon Fiber... and that stuff is pricey! (I only have one roll, so maybe I'll not use it for this.)
Now where did I put that nylon....
My PP-CF is cursed. It's tightly wound and easily became unspooled. My go-to Nylon is now Siratech PPA. Fibron PA6-CF20 is just too stiff and messy to work with.
Nice... comes in 1Kg spools and it much less overall than Fiberon.
I guess the only downside (for me) is it's glossy and not matte. However, it's easy to print and super strong.
Fortunately, a spray can of matte clear makes *any* glossy print look spectacular; even PETG.