ASA problem Larger parts
IMG_3710
Please, why is this happening? I didn't print part 1 because it started to separate from the board. I understand, maybe the base was not properly degreased. I had part 2 printed and added a hem. It didn't come off. But it bent the entire base! So the 4 corners are finished again! Part 3 is also deformed in the corners and scored. It happens when filling in the last 3-4 layers of the surface. Until then, it prints nicely without errors. It happens with flat and thick models..
RE: ASA problem Larger parts
Common issue with ASA in large prints.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: ASA problem Larger parts
A print that large requires an adhesive and carefully managed chamber temperatures. Also, perhaps increase the number of perimeters to 3 or 4 and use a low density gyroid infill (like 10%).
RE: ASA problem Larger parts
I also suggest enabling the draft shield and maybe adjusting it's size and distance, maybe a brim too. ASA tends to warp badly with variable temperatures in the chamber and large objects.
Regards,
Mark
RE:
Large ASA parts are tough on the Core One because the passively heated chamber can't reach a high enough ambient temperature to keep upper layers warm, leading to differential cooling and warping. The bed does heat the chamber, but it's not the same as active chamber heating.
@mark's idea of a draft shield might help keep temperature gradients stable around the part and reduce warping.
RE: ASA problem Larger parts
I'm going back to ASA printing. Why do they offer ASA filaments when you can only print small objects? I understand that it deforms......but I don't have a problem with that, but rather that the model bends my printing plate. If it were thicker, maybe it wouldn't bend. That model can bend the corners of the plate.
RE: ASA problem Larger parts
I'm going back to ASA printing. Why do they offer ASA filaments when you can only print small objects? I understand that it deforms......but I don't have a problem with that, but rather that the model bends my printing plate. If it were thicker, maybe it wouldn't bend. That model can bend the corners of the plate.
ASA's primary characteristic is that it's UV resistant so parts can go outside. You can print large ASA on the Core One and control warping but it's challenging and not something that is easy for a beginner. I find that using a Garolite G10 surface is the best choice for ASA since there is really strong adhesion to the plate.
Anyway, short answer is it's possible to print large ASA parts but you need to be very careful about part geometry, positioning on the sheet, nozzle choices, number of perimeters and infill selection.
RE: ASA problem Larger parts
Thanks for the answer. Can you be more specific? If I print a 10mm plate, I see the problem most often when it starts to close the last 2-3 layers (9.6mm, 9.8mm, 10mm) for example. Until then, I don't see the problem. I've printed a lot of parts and some look nice and some I throw away.I'm attaching a couple of nice prints.
RE: ASA problem Larger parts
Internal stress in the part is what causes this warping to occur. A brim will help keep the part stuck to the plate but as each successive layer cools and contract the cumulative pull across those layers is enough to warp the part off of the build surface. Flat geometries like this are the worst because there is no vertical components for the contraction stresses to dissipate into so it all gets directed into the base.
On a Core One it's import to retain heat in the chamber since it's passively heated by the print bed. I usually try to keep it above 55° by having a blanket covering the top.
Things to consider:
- Draft shield enabled, sized close to the part (slows convective cooling of the upper layers)
- Part cooling fan dropped to ~20–30% after the first few layers
- 3–4 perimeters with ~10% gyroid infill, less accumulated internal stress than denser or rectilinear patterns
- Bed at 105–110°C plus and adhesive on a clean smooth or satin sheet
- Print near the center of the bed (and away from the door) where the chamber air is warmest
RE:
Double-check whether humidity could play a role. Failing in larger parts could mean simply that the spool was dried only superficially - unwind a few layers and it stops being dry. The symptoms looks all too familiar. I've printed quite a bit of ASA recently with "really" dry filament, and keep getting consistent results (printing from a running dryer, so the core of the spool gets a few guaranteed hours of drying time).
RE: ASA problem Larger parts
How do you dry the filament on the core one?
RE: ASA problem Larger parts
I use a polydryer.
How do you dry the filament on the core one?
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: ASA problem Larger parts
Space Pi for me.
"Recipe" for ASA is 68°C, as the spools I've got can't handle any more (they distort slightly but still stay "on track"). It drives out some organics - the smell is very strong for the first drying round and the material gets brittle to the point where it needs very careful loading right after drying. Especially (TiO2) white, it's really more problematic than other colors. But it prints decently after drying.