Love / Hate Relationship with Core One 0.4mm HF Nozzle Printing PETG  

RE: Love / Hate Relationship with Core One 0.4mm HF Nozzle Printing PETG

interesting, I have the reported issues in my mk4s with white prusament petg! Using black petg, also prusament, comes out perfectly. Same bronze HF nozzle. go figure!

Posted by: @brian-12

I've been using the Prusa HF nozzle with PETG without issue.  I also print Hatchbox filament and use the Prusament profile. 

Almost no stringing.  This is with black, and filament is dried and printed directly from a drybox.

Colored PETG does not print as nice and will have some nozzle buildup and light stringing.  Something about the pigment changes it's properties.  White is the worst. 

RE: Love / Hate Relationship with Core One 0.4mm HF Nozzle Printing PETG

White probably has a lot of titanium dioxide as this is typically used for its high reflectivity which gives a bright white to things it's added to.

RE: Love / Hate Relationship with Core One 0.4mm HF Nozzle Printing PETG

I'm brand new to 3d printing, Core One kit is my first printer I've ever used.  I used the 2 x 25g Prusament PLA samples, prints worked like a charm.  Then I tried my hand at eSUN PETG, no bueno.  Attempted many potential fixes reading up online (print speeds, fill patterns, temps, filament dryer), they helped a bit but I still ended up with unreliable and stringy prints.  Saw this thread and bought a standard 04.mm brass nozzle, everything is working fine now.  I have both the standard 0.4mm HF and the Obxidian 0.4mm HF, but moving to the non HF fixed the problem.

RE: Love / Hate Relationship with Core One 0.4mm HF Nozzle Printing PETG

FWIW: I've been printing rolls of Elegoo Rapid PETG on the core one, and it's been working pretty well.  The only caveat is that I needed to start using bed adhesive to make really fine first layer prints stick to the textured PEI steel bed plate.

I've printed 4 rolls of black petg without issue and a roll of Prusament Ultra Marine PETG without issue once I got the printer fully adjusted.

RE:

Three things in this thread:

1. "Standard  preset": Prusament PETG preset or generic PETG preset? They are quite different..
2. "Filament was dried": there's "I dried my filament" and "my filament is definitely dry". When using my little eSun dryer, I have to use the highest temperature, even for pla. I put two of these little hygrometers next to the spool and the show about 48°C. Then I shortly open the box every now and then (3-8 hours) to let the moisture vent out and rotate the roll 1/3 rotation. I let it sit there, until both hygrometers show below 20%, preferably their minimum (10%). With some PETG rolls, it took the full 36 hours that I can set the timer of the dryer to. Only then I won't have any oozing at 235°C nozzle temp.
3. I have 40-60% humidity at 21-24°C room temperature here in Germany. I had some standard Geeetech PLA starting to ooze/bubbling/stringing after two weeks on the printer after drying. Which is why I put all my filament straight from the dryer into a sealed cereal drybox. Humidity starts to creep up after about 3 months and the silica gel has to be dried/swapped after 4-5 months. 

RE: Love / Hate Relationship with Core One 0.4mm HF Nozzle Printing PETG

A second post about the HF nozzle:

I definitely have more stringing and little blobs with the stock HF nozzle compared to my Phaetus SiC 0.4 nozzle. Might be due to a different temperature inside of the nozzle or the 3-channels-HF design. I can lower the nozzle temp with the stock HF nozzle quite a lot without clogging, but when it starts clogging, it's quickly getting "dangerous".

It seems to me, that finding the sweetspot temperature is a lot trickier with the HF nozzle and even the same filament needs to be dialled in for each color of it.