RE: Discovering that PrusaSlicer settings for Prusa's own filaments are not always accurate
Another option is to buy a 12"x12" G10 sheet from somewhere like McMaster Carr, then score and break it down to size, sand the surface, and clip it on. I did this for my Mk4, and have recently filed out some notches to clear the nozzle wiper on the Core One. I prefer it for TPU. Not having it glued to steel means that you have to be careful to install it with any warp oriented downward so that you don't get floating in the middle that will cause the bed mesh to fail. These expensive pre-made options would be a bit of a luxury. If I used my G10 more I might invest in one.
-J
RE: Discovering that PrusaSlicer settings for Prusa's own filaments are not always accurate
TPU sticks too well to G10 (have to use a separation layer) and it's the only surface I can get POM to stick to (still have to prep the surface by sanding). Overall it's not a bad print surface. It's just stupidly expensive for what it is.
RE: Discovering that PrusaSlicer settings for Prusa's own filaments are not always accurate
TPU sticks too well to G10 (have to use a separation layer) and it's the only surface I can get POM to stick to (still have to prep the surface by sanding). Overall it's not a bad print surface. It's just stupidly expensive for what it is.
I found that TPU comes off of my sanded G10 fine unless I accidentally heat the bed. If I keep the bed cold, the parts can be peeled off with acceptable force. This was the selling point for me because it meant that I could get prints started much quicker on the Mk4. They take a bit longer on the Core One, but still save the bed heat up time.
-J
RE: Discovering that PrusaSlicer settings for Prusa's own filaments are not always accurate
Ok, I have ordered a g10 plate for the core one. May I kindly ask for the settings you use for prusament pcblend?
RE:
Ok, I have ordered a g10 plate for the core one. May I kindly ask for the settings you use for prusament pcblend?
I set the following:
- Chamber Temperature Nominal: 60 (Note: this actually doesn't do anything since the max is currently hardwired in the firmware to 55C. But it is there just in case Prusa decide to raise the limit in the next firmware release since the Core One L supports this)
- Shrinkage compensation XY: 0.71%
- Shrinkage compensation Z: 0.58%
It looks like the default extrusion multiplier "1" is fine. Later today I'm going to recalibrate the Linear Advance factors. And I'm thinking of raising the bed to 120C from 115C.
For what it's worth, I use my G10 plate for POM, ASA and TPU. I haven't used PC on it that much because it seems to stick well enough to my Cryogrip Pro.
RE:
With the G10 plate and Magigoo PC, the parts really stick on well with no warping and can be hard to get off in my case since I opted for the non spring steel version. At the same time though, there is no coating to worry about damaging. I'll probably just only use the G10 from now for my upcoming PC build (the INBXXX)
RE: Discovering that PrusaSlicer settings for Prusa's own filaments are not always accurate
many thanks!
With the G10 plate and Magigoo PC, the parts really stick on well with no warping and can be hard to get off in my case since I opted for the non spring steel version. At the same time though, there is no coating to worry about damaging. I'll probably just only use the G10 from now for my upcoming PC build (the INBXXX)