Possible ghosting issues after calibration
When I first assembled the C1 and printed, I was having clicking on the pulleys and drifting to the right. After reading this post, I removed the screw and am having straight prints, but I seem to have some ghosting. I |loosened all of the tension screws, reset the gantry, did x/y calibrations, and did the manual belt tuner| for 2 hours; I'd get the calibration to pass, but the homing was off or would sound like it was crashing into itself *way* too hard......
But after the 2 hours, it prints like a dream, can barely hear it. But I'm still getting what I assume are ghosting/VFAs. I ordered the accelerometer set cause why not, but is there anything else I should do?
Left is before calibration, right is after in cube pictures
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
But I'm still getting what I assume are ghosting/VFAs
Can you please send us a 3MF file where you can still see the VFA?
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
Is it in stealth mode? I have noticed that it is tuned to get rid of VFAs in normal mode but they are much worse in stealth mode.
Regards,
Mark
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
Did not and have not used stealth mode yet
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
I got the file from printables, the STL file, https://www.printables.com/model/118657-calibration-cube/files
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
Sorry if I'm being dense or hard to understand, I'm not good at talking to humans
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
ordered the accelerometer set cause why not, but is there anything else I should do?
Good idea, but that won't completely solve the problem.
How did you tension the two belts? Were there any problems? If so, what were they?
Sorry if I'm being dense or hard to understand, I'm not good at talking to humans
There are much worse things in 2026 😉
I got the file from printables, the STL file, https://www.printables.com/model/118657-calibration-cube/files
Thanks, I actually wanted to know what profile settings you used to print it? In other words, what default settings did you choose in Slicer that resulted in it looking like it does in the pictures above?
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
1) Belt tensioning
- I broke the right printed front tension part the first time so had to get a replacement. Installed it, but didn't align the gantry right, and spent the next day aligning it by loosening all the belt tension screws then tightened until the gantry was straight. I then tried the audio belt app, and went back and forth until both belts were perfect in the center after three strums were captured. I then did the calibration of the y and x axis and homing, which all failed at various points. I repeated the belt loosening, straightening, tightening, and audio until y and x axis and homing worked. I tried the manual homing, and after that the printer was nearly silent compared to how it started out. I then proceeded to print the calicube and pug.
2) Yea my main PC mobo is RMA right now, so limited to printing from 2018 tablet, so everything is straight from printables. The only thing I change is scale and supports.
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
Good morning.
1) Belt tensioning
- I broke the right printed front tension part the first time so had to get a replacement. Installed it, but didn't align the gantry right, and spent the next day aligning it by loosening all the belt tension screws then tightened until the gantry was straight. I then tried the audio belt app, and went back and forth until both belts were perfect in the center after three strums were captured. I then did the calibration of the y and x axis and homing, which all failed at various points. I repeated the belt loosening, straightening, tightening, and audio until y and x axis and homing worked. I tried the manual homing, and after that the printer was nearly silent compared to how it started out. I then proceeded to print the calicube and pug.
That sounds like a lot of work and a very lengthy process.
I'll print this cube myself and see how it turns out with my settings.
Can you load this test cube into your slicer again, save it as a project (3MF) with the same settings, and upload it here if necessary?
Then we could compare the results.
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
Sorry, I haven't managed to do it yet today. I'll get back to you tomorrow with the results.
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
it's all good. I'm just gonna wait for the accelerometer to come in, and I'm going to redo everything. It's the right side that isn't flush with the end-stop(?) when doing initial calibration with the belts fully loosened. So I think that I'm going to 'try' and bend that part like listed in the manual by applying counter force, or might try and detach and straighten. Then I'll do the calibrations of x and y again, home, manual belt tuner, then accelerometer. Just getting kinda worn out working and thinking about it all the time
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it's all good. I'm just gonna wait for the accelerometer to come in, and I'm going to redo everything. It's the right side that isn't flush with the end-stop(?) when doing initial calibration with the belts fully loosened. So I think that I'm going to 'try' and bend that part like listed in the manual by applying counter force, or might try and detach and straighten. Then I'll do the calibrations of x and y again, home, manual belt tuner, then accelerometer. Just getting kinda worn out working and thinking about it all the time
Loosening the screws, bending then adjusting with the belt wizard in the firmware worked for me. When using the belt tuning wizard I looked at both sides for gaps and tightened that more and the other side less. You can see much better if you remove the top of the enclosure.
Regards,
Mark
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
... didn't align the gantry right, and spent the next day aligning it by loosening all the belt tension screws then tightened until the gantry was straight.
Don't do that (using the belt tension to square the gantry). It will result in skew, excessive banging when homing, etc. Follow the prusa belt tightening article - loosen the belts, then bend the gantry until it's square. Then, equally tighten the tensioners on each side and use the stroboscopic belt tuning tool.
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I loosened too much and the belts came undone. Not a problem, I can reattach.
While apart, I applied counter force to the edges until both sides of the linear rail hit the bumpers(?) at the same time.
But then I let go of the linear rail, it defaults back about 1/4 an inch back, it kinda feels like the belts are pulling it to that point then slacking.
I plan on re attaching the bet screws and turning both sides the same amount until both sides of the linear rail hit the bumpers, then will proceed with the manual belt tuning.
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
Ok, so:
1) Reattached the tension belt pulleys
2) Tightened both screws the same amount until both sides felt snug, then tightened belt on left side until little tiny bit of play was gone.
3) Preformed the Y & X Axis calibrations, which passed, then homed which didn't. *Side note: had to remove the vent flap opener because it kept hitting the protuberance used to close the top vent. Caused some grinding on the belts so should be addressed in updates.
4). Since homing didn't work, went to manual belt tuning. Then did Y&X again, then homed. Failed first home, but decided to try again, and it passed. Repeated X&Y and homing, passed.
5) Did audio belt strumming just for ghit and siggles, and adjusted to perfect tuning after 5 successful strum captures
6) Did Manual Belt Tuning again
7) X&Y&Homing again, passed.
Not touching it for the rest of the night, might try a print tomorrow but think I might just wait until the accelerometer comes in. Ordered the Buddy cam, new sheet, nozzle set, linear rail lube, and the accelerometer. RMA on my motherboard for my PC updated and it's about 3 months out (rage) so I'm limited to a Steam Deck right now, so gcodes might be hard for me cause I'm burned out. Just waiting for the civil war...
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
Now, when you say "excessive banging", it *is* suppose to bang, right?
bangs to the right-right-right-right-right-right-right-right, front-front-front-front-front-front-front, right, front-right-front-right-front-right-front, rightrightrightrightrightright, front-front-front-front, right-right-right, front-right-front-right, fail
RE: Possible ghosting issues after calibration
hope this video posts, had to compress it twice
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https://youtube.com/shorts/_-GKJEJPLoc?feature=share
posting a youtube link to video in case it's not showing. will delete video in one week
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I tried to illustrate it visually.If you have one handy, try using a set square or a 90-degree gauge to check whether the corners marked in red are actually right angles.It's best to place one side of the gauge on the linear rail and the other on the carriage, which always hits the end stop during “homing.”
https://youtube.com/shorts/_-GKJEJPLoc?feature=share
posting a youtube link to video in case it's not showing. will delete video in one week
Check the squareness of the XY Core. I tried to illustrate it visually.
(You have to click on the image to see it in full.)
If you have one handy, try using a set square or a 90-degree gauge to check whether the corners marked in red are actually right angles.It's best to place one side of the gauge on the linear rail and the other on the carriage, which always hits the end stop during “homing.”
I'm curious to see how it looks on yours. My conversion kit from MK4S to Core One is from November 2025, and the angles were right angles.