PA powdered bed with PA-11/CF
Finally got around to printing on the powdered nylon bed on the XL. I have never, ever seen PA stick like that before. I've printed a lot of nylon things in the past and had plenty of success but never had adhesion like this. I mean it was close to overly sticking, which is never, ever something I thought I might say. It stuck like PETG to that surface, and was surprisingly hard to unstick, but looked absolutely gorgeous. and the structural print is working as designed. I imagine it adheres so much with the powdered surface as the flexible nature of PA goes into the nooks and crannies, like butter on a thomas' english muffin (sorry US cultural reference).
And nobody judge me for all the tools I have sitting on the base of the XL. yeah it's a mess, and well, yeah it is, and someday I will organize it, but with 27 different projects easier to leave the tools right there.
RE: PA powdered bed with PA-11/CF
I've only printed a few small things. The CF seems to make the parts warp less, plus the surface is sticky. Did you try any glue stick to help with release?
RE: PA powdered bed with PA-11/CF
Think twice before using glue on a PA powdered bed. Prusa warns clearly against the use of IPA, acetone or any kind of adhesive on this plate. Only warm water and maybe a few drops of Fairy/Dawn.
During the last year I've printed quite a bit of PA11-CF on the PA powdered plate with my MK3S+. I agree with you guys. Excellent adhesion, zero warping and easy release of the part after cooling down. Pity that this filament is so difficult to get. Prusa makes it in very small batches for sure, because it's sold in a couple of days and then it remains out of stock literally for months.
RE: PA powdered bed with PA-11/CF
I assume the matterhackers version will work equally well
RE: PA powdered bed with PA-11/CF
Alright so just finished a PACF/BVOH job and the print tore bits of the surface off. It’s like back when I had a glass bed printer and printed PETG and you’d end up with glass chunks inside. Seems we’ve gone from almost no adhesion to over adhesion. The BVOH even stuck pretty well. The wipe tower tore some bits off the sheet when it popped too.
RE: PA powdered bed with PA-11/CF
Update so I was running low on the PA-CF spool (my poor sheet has a bunch of divots) and when I needed more to complete this project (happy wife, happy life) for my wife's work, I ordered PA-G from MatterHackers (NylonG - ie glass filled) admittedly in olive green (it was an impulse buy) and interestingly it pops off the bed far easier, and tends to easily peel off without tearing off the coating
RE: PA powdered bed with PA-11/CF
Your problem with the PA coated plate seems strange. I've been printing for some time PA11-CF on this plate and I never had any issues removing the print from the bed, much less so tearing the coating off. That happens sometimes with a smooth plate and filaments like PETG or TPU, if you don't apply adhesive, I never heard of it with satin or textured plates. Maybe there's something amiss with your settings ?. Which bed temperature did you use for the first layer ?.
RE: PA powdered bed with PA-11/CF
I used the built in settings from Prusaslicer for the prusament PACF (I turned the temp down slightly on the NylonG since their suggested temps were slightly lower)
RE: PA powdered bed with PA-11/CF
I printed small parts using NylonX and it was almost impossible to remove the parts from the plate. I used supports on my first print, and had to spend over an hour with a razor blade carefully separating it from the plate (only 1 small scratch!)
Settings were 255/100.
I'm bummed because I thought the enclosure and printer upgrades with the enclosure would make it a lot easier to print NylonX than what I was using before. If the parts were bigger, then it probably would. With small parts, though, it's a problem.
Would like to get a response from Prusa about whether it's safe to use a glue stick with this plate. It can be washed off with water, so I assume it's safe. With the glue stick, the small parts come off easier.