RE: Stringing Issues
nice to know!
Even if it does not appear logical, a larger nozzle requires less temperature. At least I read that somewhere.
In addition, a larger nozzle causes more stringing. However, the prints should be more stable for this. (to about 25% more strength in comparison 0.4 & 0.6mm nozzle)
I did the following to check the nozzle temperature:
- I drilled a shallow hole in the heat block on the side face, between the RTD and the nozzle.
- I added a 0.5mm thermocouple (bare wire with bead) in the drilled hole
- I installed the silicone sock to hold the thermocouple in place and to reduce heat loss through the thermocouple wires to the air
Here are the results:
Prusa temp 200°C -> thermocouple temp 203°C
Prusa temp 240°C -> thermocouple temp 243°C
Prusa temp 280°C -> thermocouple temp 284°C
So, according to these readings, the Prusa nozzle temperature calibration is good. I would not be surprised if my thermocouple reader and/or thermocouple are a few degrees off, and it is the Prusa that is closer to the real temperature, in fact. I didn't calibrate the Omega thermocouple reader, or the thermocouple.
Ok, I have managed to get prints with almost no stringing.
I had to drop the temps WAY down. I am printing PLA at 195 and PETG at 205.
I am tempted to pick up a good thermocouple to test if that is the actual temp or if there is a calibration issue with the thermistor.
RE: Stringing Issues
Is there a solution to this yet?
RE: Stringing Issues
I solved it be reducing the nozzle temp by 15 degrees. So for PETG I use 225/235 degrees celsius. Stringing was mostly gone.
Is there a solution to this yet?
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RE: Stringing Issues
I solved it be reducing the nozzle temp by 15 degrees. So for PETG I use 225/235 degrees celsius. Stringing was mostly gone.
Is there a solution to this yet?
Did you try that with PLA? I wonder if it's a temperature issue after all
RE: Stringing Issues
Do you have a MK3S or MK4 that you could also test this on? Another XL user on a facebook group theorized that the thermistor is closer to the hotend on the XL which means that it tends to run closer to the actual temp and hence hotter. This could account for the having to reduce nozzle temperatures.
I did the following to check the nozzle temperature:
- I drilled a shallow hole in the heat block on the side face, between the RTD and the nozzle.
- I added a 0.5mm thermocouple (bare wire with bead) in the drilled hole
- I installed the silicone sock to hold the thermocouple in place and to reduce heat loss through the thermocouple wires to the air
Here are the results:
Prusa temp 200°C -> thermocouple temp 203°C
Prusa temp 240°C -> thermocouple temp 243°C
Prusa temp 280°C -> thermocouple temp 284°C
So, according to these readings, the Prusa nozzle temperature calibration is good. I would not be surprised if my thermocouple reader and/or thermocouple are a few degrees off, and it is the Prusa that is closer to the real temperature, in fact. I didn't calibrate the Omega thermocouple reader, or the thermocouple.
Ok, I have managed to get prints with almost no stringing.
I had to drop the temps WAY down. I am printing PLA at 195 and PETG at 205.
I am tempted to pick up a good thermocouple to test if that is the actual temp or if there is a calibration issue with the thermistor.
RE: Stringing Issues
Concerning thread considering I've just paid for my XL. Certainly sounds like a hardware issue to me based on the fact people with MK3/MK4 are using the same material and printing fine. I can't imagine the slicer is so far out for the XL with Prusa's experience.
I did wonder if the long filament run makes retraction less effective as it's having to push back on any friction in the tubes. Maybe something like the spring loaded feed the Bambu Lab A1 is using could help.
RE: Stringing Issues
I have a MK3S that I can try this on. I don't have a silicone sock, so the results might be a little different. But I'll give it a try, anyway.
Do you have a MK3S or MK4 that you could also test this on? Another XL user on a facebook group theorized that the thermistor is closer to the hotend on the XL which means that it tends to run closer to the actual temp and hence hotter. This could account for the having to reduce nozzle temperatures.
I did the following to check the nozzle temperature:
- I drilled a shallow hole in the heat block on the side face, between the RTD and the nozzle.
- I added a 0.5mm thermocouple (bare wire with bead) in the drilled hole
- I installed the silicone sock to hold the thermocouple in place and to reduce heat loss through the thermocouple wires to the air
Here are the results:
Prusa temp 200°C -> thermocouple temp 203°C
Prusa temp 240°C -> thermocouple temp 243°C
Prusa temp 280°C -> thermocouple temp 284°C
So, according to these readings, the Prusa nozzle temperature calibration is good. I would not be surprised if my thermocouple reader and/or thermocouple are a few degrees off, and it is the Prusa that is closer to the real temperature, in fact. I didn't calibrate the Omega thermocouple reader, or the thermocouple.
Ok, I have managed to get prints with almost no stringing.
I had to drop the temps WAY down. I am printing PLA at 195 and PETG at 205.
I am tempted to pick up a good thermocouple to test if that is the actual temp or if there is a calibration issue with the thermistor.
RE: Stringing Issues
Ack, I just remembered that my MK3S has a copper heatblock, so it would be apples to oranges.
I'm going to go run a 200-240°C PETG temperature tower on the XL. I'll report back with the results.
I have a MK3S that I can try this on. I don't have a silicone sock, so the results might be a little different. But I'll give it a try, anyway.
Do you have a MK3S or MK4 that you could also test this on? Another XL user on a facebook group theorized that the thermistor is closer to the hotend on the XL which means that it tends to run closer to the actual temp and hence hotter. This could account for the having to reduce nozzle temperatures.
I did the following to check the nozzle temperature:
- I drilled a shallow hole in the heat block on the side face, between the RTD and the nozzle.
- I added a 0.5mm thermocouple (bare wire with bead) in the drilled hole
- I installed the silicone sock to hold the thermocouple in place and to reduce heat loss through the thermocouple wires to the air
Here are the results:
Prusa temp 200°C -> thermocouple temp 203°C
Prusa temp 240°C -> thermocouple temp 243°C
Prusa temp 280°C -> thermocouple temp 284°C
So, according to these readings, the Prusa nozzle temperature calibration is good. I would not be surprised if my thermocouple reader and/or thermocouple are a few degrees off, and it is the Prusa that is closer to the real temperature, in fact. I didn't calibrate the Omega thermocouple reader, or the thermocouple.
Ok, I have managed to get prints with almost no stringing.
I had to drop the temps WAY down. I am printing PLA at 195 and PETG at 205.
I am tempted to pick up a good thermocouple to test if that is the actual temp or if there is a calibration issue with the thermistor.
RE: Stringing Issues
5h printer here with multi colour benchy. Stock settings and they're not good. Makes you wonder how much testing/tuning they have done as this seems a common issue.
RE: Stringing Issues
This is 100% a temp issue. The XL is showing that it needs to have the print temps dropped quite a bit.
I am seeing almost no stringing with 190 for PLA and 205 for PETG.
RE: Stringing Issues
That's good. But if it's that simple why haven't Prusa picked this up in their profiles? It's making their product look bad.
This is 100% a temp issue. The XL is showing that it needs to have the print temps dropped quite a bit.
I am seeing almost no stringing with 190 for PLA and 205 for PETG.
RE: Stringing Issues
No, people that are tying to use their own lack of testing, tuning, and though are trying to make their product look bad for their youtube channels. You posted a video without doing any research or testing. It would make me think that you are very new to world of printers. If you need to be spoon fed parameters you are never going to have much luck printing.
RE: Stringing Issues
Isn’t one of Prusa’s strengths the whole package and having a great starting point out of the box. People don’t want to spend hours tuning a printer anymore. They want a machine that works. It’s why Bambu are cleaning up. Something basic as print temp for PLA makes me question what they did when making the profiles. The fact this thread exists shows that people consider this an issue.
RE: Stringing Issues
Why did you make a video, post it to Youtube, and then come in here to promote your video? You did not read this thread or do any research before hand. The answer to your problem was posted well before you made your video. I started this thread weeks ago when the first of the multi toolhead machines started shipping. We as a community worked to solve the issue. I would bet that in time the profiles will be updated.
You are looking to drive views to your channel. You did not come here for answers.
RE: Stringing Issues
Where did I say it’s my video? For the record it’s not. It’s just another one I’ve watched reporting the problem. The point is why if the solution is so simple have Prusa missed it in their creation and development of the print profiles? It points to a lack of testing. That’s the point I’m making. I’ll leave it at that.
RE: Stringing Issues
Why did you bother top link it here? The answer to why prints are stringing and how to solve it are in the thread. It seems like you are fishing for things to complain about. You found a video on a channel with a handful of subscribers posted by someone that looks to have very little printer experience and then look to it as gospel. Do you own an XL? Are you getting good prints from it? If you are having stringing issues, have you tried lowering the temps? If so, what brand and type of filament are you using? Try adding something to the solution rather than just flinging crap.
RE: Stringing Issues
This is the config that I am currently printing with. It has custom temps and configs for Prusament PETG and Overture PLA printing the PETG at 212 and the PLA at 197.
These are the highest temps that I am able to print at without significant stringing.
The bed temp is set to 70 as a compromise between the PLA and PETG temp to allow both to be printed on the same plate to allow for dissimilar support material.
If you are having issues with stringing please try these settings. If you are just printing PLA drop the bed temp to 60, if you are just printing PETG raise the bed temp to 80.
RE: Stringing Issues
Yep can confirm stringing is very real but the dimensional accuracy and layers look otherwise perfect.
I got a chance to print with the 5 head for the first time today and I used the "First_Layer_0.6n_0.2mm_PLA_XL_50m.gcode" from the USB so I couldn't tune the temperature down but hoping I can find the 3mf or stl to try lowering temperatures by at least 10 degrees and then 5 degree intervals to see how it affects the stringing.
If the only thing I have to do is lower temps across the board and I still get this quality and fast tool changes then I'll be happy.
RE: Stringing Issues
prusaslicer comes with these files when you install its in - Public Documents/Prusa3D, not in the PrusaSlicer folder.
RE: Stringing Issues
I am also having stringing problems. I am willing to try to drop the temps to mitigate this but I have a question about how to implement it... I use Prusa Slicer with 3 non-XL prusa printers. My first instinct is to reduce the temperatures in the filament profiles, but this would then apply to all the printers, right? I will never remember (nor do I want to) manually change these every time I slice a model for a different printer.
Is there a way to reduce the temperatures for different material types for just the XL? like a command to add to the printer custom g-code section or something?