Nextruder Adapters and Tungsten nozzles PSA
After my 5XL arrived and I did a few test prints, I decided to swap to .4 nozzles to get the quality I was used to.
Luckily I had a bunch of old v6 nozzles laying around from my initial foray into printing abrasives on my MK3s, and ordered 5 v6 adapters. I had a spare tungsten carbide nozzle from 3dmakerengineering, a Microswiss A2, and a Slice Engineering vanadium. I ordered an additional Dyze Design nozzle because the one in my MK3s has been working fine for years, and is why I had a hoard of unused hardened nozzles.
I quickly discovered the hardened steel nozzle temperature differential was too much hassle on a multi-tool printer, so I ordered an additional tungsten alloy nozzle from Midwest Tungsten, and swapped in a brass nozzle to round things out.
My configuration ended up being Dyze Design, 3dMaker tungsten carbide, Midwest tungsten, and two old brass nozzles.
First, the Midwest Nozzle begin leaking from the top of the heater block past the adapter threads, and then also the nozzle, ruining multiple prints. I cleaned and retorqued and the problem happened again.
Google said it was a temperature differential issue, so I ordered a Diamondback since it had overnight shipping, no issues since on that tool head.
...Then the 3dmakerengineering TC nozzle had the same problem, heater block covered with plastic and globs flowing past the nozzle and adapter threads. Tried to clean and retorque, but again, no go.
I'm sure other people may have success, but I did not find it.
I should've just been patient and ordered more Dyze nozzles. People complain that Dyze nozzles are not entirely TC, but on the Nextruder with the adapter that is a strength, at least so far.
TL;DR Probably don't use pure tungsten carbide or tungsten nozzles on an XL with an adapter, stick with steel or brass nozzles with hardened tips, wait till there are native tungsten nextruder nozzles, or just get 5 nozzle X and adjust profile for all 5 tool heads.
RE:
Mirrors my experience with 3d Maker Engineering and Spool3D TC nozzles. I gave up on the adaptor and ended up using Prusa Obxidian nozzles.
Edit: I assume copper heater blocks would also address the issue. I have no problems with TC nozzles using Dragon hotends on my Mk3S and Minis, which are nickel-coated copper.
RE: Nextruder Adapters and Tungsten nozzles PSA
I got mixed results with my 3d Maker Engineering .6 TC nozzle on my XL. PLA seemed to do just fine but PETG always eventually found a way through the cracks. I guess that temperature difference is enough for the material expansion rate differences to really show.
I'm hoping for an aftermarket copper heatblock like for the MK3, but I dont expect anything anytime soon, if ever. Picked up a couple obxidians in the meanwhile.
Those diamondhead nozzles are appealing too but being able to cold swap is just that much less annoying. Also price difference.
XL-5T, MK3S MMU3 || GUIDE: How to print with multiple-nozzlesizes do read updated replies || PrusaSlicer Fork with some flags removed || How Feasible is Printing PETG for PLA supports very
RE: Nextruder Adapters and Tungsten nozzles PSA
So quick update. So after about a month the Dyze Design eventually leaked as well, but only from the top. It is a slow leak compared to the other nozzles, and persisted after a cleaning/tightening.
This nozzle worked fine on my MK3s, so my guess is that the heat/coolcycles are just way higher on the XL Like one XL multicolor print can be the equivalent of a year of printing in terms of heat cycles. A mitigation might be to change the parked temperature to the print temperature, but I'm done with troubleshooting.
The Diamondbacks are still working perfectly with no leaks.
Maybe the Dyze leak may be due to some sort of user error on my part, but even so the lesson here is that brass nozzles provide for a WIDE margin of user error compared tungsten carbide or steel nozzles on the V6 adapter.
So in short: Do not use anything but brass nozzles (with or without hardened inserts) on a nextruder with a v6 adapter and stock heatblock unless you want to risk a leak, failed prints, and potential toolhead damage.