RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
I'm having a big problem with PolyTerra PLA matte filaments loading into the extruder. I can't seem to fine tune the tips with only reducing temperature.
Other PLA filaments have been fine (mostly I've tested FreeMover PLA+).
But this PolyTerra PLA is driving me up the wall!
RE:
Just wanted to say, I'd got my printer working more or less perfectly, aside from a somewhat unreliable MMU material change, which became a consistent failure. I scoured the internet looking for a solution, then came across these suggested settings. I was sceptical of taking an internet strangers settings without understanding them fully, but gave them a try. Now everything works absolutely flawlessly, did a 10h print with material change every layer and it worked perfectly, filament tips looking great.
So, point being thank you @Thejiral so much for your contribution to my happy printing life! 🙂
And to anyone else having difficulties, give these settings a try!
RE:
@ Oxnard111 It might be those anti-clogging additives which are supposedly in the PolyTerra PLA which might make things harder for tip formation. If temperature doesn't do the trick there is the whole rabbit hole of changing the ramming settings.
Mk3s MMU2s, Voron 0.1, Voron 2.4
RE:
@Madcamper,
have a look at my post on fine tuning MMU3 and REVO 😉 There are several things to set and know if you want to use Revo and MMU3.
https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mmu3-user-mods-enclosures-nozzles/mmu3-and-e3d-revo-six/#post-682703
I never reached to make work the Revo6 with FW required for MMU3 ( 3.12 or earlier, since they added thermal calibration ).
Followed your step 6, but the PID calibration doesn't start still. 215 appears then suddenly replaced by a zero, and nothing happens ( used FW e3d_REVO_fw_MK3_MK3S_MK3S+_3_13_2_7080 ) .
Can you please share your step by step way to fix the thermal issue Revo6 with MMU3 ? Did you do anything with 3rd party software that you didn't mention ?
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
Update: I completed the 21 hour print that had about 460 tool changes, in about 26 hours due to 5-6 feeding failures due to stringy tips. That was unacceptable as I need these prints to go through the night without intervention. Today I've played with a few more settings and hopefully got it more or less dialed in for PETG.
One thing to note is the revo 6 has made a great improvement on my MMU3 printing capabilities. I've tested printing a square block broken up into 2 colors with about 47 tool changes taking about 2 hours to print. During my last test print of this I had zero failures, wipe tower looked good, nozzle looked good and the print itself looked good. Still have an occasional stringy tip but they did not seem long enough to affect feeding. The real test will be performing a longer print with more tool changes. This all would have been easier if there was an option to make the temperature during the tool change lower, then go back to normal temp after the tool change.
Couple things to note that seemed to make the biggest difference of improvement for me:
Revo 6 upgrade
Filament Settings-Setting "Other Layers" temp a little lower than "First Layer", Loading speed at the start, loading speed, unloading speed at the start, unloading speed
Printer Settings- cooling tube length
Adding "Wipe into infill" for the model
The results of the successful test print:
Filament Settings:
Printer Settings:
This is pure gold, I was really disapointed with the upgrade.. I tried a lot of differents things with no results.. Till I copied every number from here and it was like magic. I used to get a lot the #04108 error ( https://help.prusa3d.com/article/load-to-extruder-failed-04108-mmu_480404 ). I use PLA instead of PETG, 205°C. @Madcamper Thank you very much!
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
Update: I completed the 21 hour print that had about 460 tool changes, in about 26 hours due to 5-6 feeding failures due to stringy tips. That was unacceptable as I need these prints to go through the night without intervention. Today I've played with a few more settings and hopefully got it more or less dialed in for PETG.
One thing to note is the revo 6 has made a great improvement on my MMU3 printing capabilities. I've tested printing a square block broken up into 2 colors with about 47 tool changes taking about 2 hours to print. During my last test print of this I had zero failures, wipe tower looked good, nozzle looked good and the print itself looked good. Still have an occasional stringy tip but they did not seem long enough to affect feeding. The real test will be performing a longer print with more tool changes. This all would have been easier if there was an option to make the temperature during the tool change lower, then go back to normal temp after the tool change.
Couple things to note that seemed to make the biggest difference of improvement for me:
Revo 6 upgrade
Filament Settings-Setting "Other Layers" temp a little lower than "First Layer", Loading speed at the start, loading speed, unloading speed at the start, unloading speed
Printer Settings- cooling tube length
Adding "Wipe into infill" for the model
The results of the successful test print:
Filament Settings:
Printer Settings:
Hi, just wanted to say this helped me IMMENSELY to tune my MMU3 on my MK3S+(with REVO) to work with PolyTerra matte PLA. I had zero issues with normal Prusament and other brand PLA's and even PETG and ASA. I noticed the texture the PolyTerra matte PLA was significantly different from the former mentioned filaments and I suspect that is at least partly to blame why I was getting terrible tips on my filament as well as other issues with loading. I just completed a print with over 300 tool changes with zero interventions on my part and the print looks fantastic.
All this to say, thank you very much!
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
Thanks for the info! I was having tip problems with ESUN PLA+. Rather than do the tuning I have gone back to Prusament, for the moment.
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
Are these suggested settings only for mmu3 with Revo? I have been struggling with PETG unload tip formation with the mmu3 and the stock mk3s+ hotend.
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
I just finished setting up the MMU3 on my stock Mk3 S+ with .6mm nozzle. I printed the test sheep in PETG and it took soooo long because about every 4th color change the filament would fail to feed. The tips looked just like what Madcamper showed.
I made the changes specified by @thejiral and the problem went away. Printed out several more test pieces with zero issues. In the middle of one now using all five colors, so far, zero issues. I have yet to do a massive one like Madcamper, but this makes me feel better about trying it.
So thanks to both @Madcamper and @thejiral
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
Thanks for sharing your settings. What material and brand do you use this settings for? I actually get very long tips on 3DJake PETG with my MMU2S
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
what material are these settings meant for?
The challenging thing with deteriorating tip quality is that one needs a a few hundred filament changes for really getting to know if good tips can be lastingly created. Stringing has a tendency of increasing over time if settings or filaments aren't optimal.
Have you tuned your hotend temperature? For the MMU you might need a lower temperature than for regular prints to get nice tips. Generally for the tip quality it tends to be the lower the better, as long as your print quality doesn't suffer too much or you risk clogging.
Regarding material change settings I have used those for challenging filaments. These are rather robust, not so delicate settings generally leading to not as nice tips compared to stock settings with nice filament however, with nasty filament it seems much more as I said... robust. Especially against formation of long strings that tend to mess up the MMU.
Loading speed at the start: 19 mm/s
Loading speed : 14 mm/s
Unloading speed at the start: 140 mm/s
Unloading speed 90 mm/s
Filament load time: 15 s
Filament unload time 12 s
Delay after unloading 0 s
Number of cooling moves: 4 (or maybe 5)
Speed of first cooling move: 20 mm/s
Speed of last cooling move 10 mm/s
Ramming setting:
Change "total ramming time (s)" to: 4.5
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
Trying to get my MMU3 working better. Right now I can get a print to complete but it stops several times with loading and unloading issues. The latest one the filament got stuck in the PTFE tube because the tip formed too big. Which settings should I tweak to fix this. I did use the settings posted earlier in this thread and it does seem better but still needs some adjustment. Thank you.
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
Or is there a guide somewhere that describes what each setting does for the formation of the tip?
Thank you
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
Update: I completed the 21 hour print that had about 460 tool changes, in about 26 hours due to 5-6 feeding failures due to stringy tips. That was unacceptable as I need these prints to go through the night without intervention. Today I've played with a few more settings and hopefully got it more or less dialed in for PETG.
One thing to note is the revo 6 has made a great improvement on my MMU3 printing capabilities. I've tested printing a square block broken up into 2 colors with about 47 tool changes taking about 2 hours to print. During my last test print of this I had zero failures, wipe tower looked good, nozzle looked good and the print itself looked good. Still have an occasional stringy tip but they did not seem long enough to affect feeding. The real test will be performing a longer print with more tool changes. This all would have been easier if there was an option to make the temperature during the tool change lower, then go back to normal temp after the tool change.
Couple things to note that seemed to make the biggest difference of improvement for me:
Revo 6 upgrade
Filament Settings-Setting "Other Layers" temp a little lower than "First Layer", Loading speed at the start, loading speed, unloading speed at the start, unloading speed
Printer Settings- cooling tube length
Adding "Wipe into infill" for the model
The results of the successful test print:
Filament Settings:
Printer Settings:
Finally I got a print to finish all the way through with no intervention. I'm not sure if it was the cooling tube length or adjusting the ramming graph that did it but it worked! Thank you for these settings. I didn't realize to change the ramming I had to change the graph. It did add 4 hours to the print though 🙁 I think I can reduce this by reducing the excessive purging. Now to get the loading to work I had to run my Bondtech extruder at 4 turns out instead of the normal 2 turns otherwise the filament wouldn't catch. Now that I have a successful print I'm going to try tighting that up again.
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
So I've got the MMU3 working for the most part. I think the majority of my issues with loading have to do with the drive gears. The Nextruder has a much larger diameter drive gear so it has an easier time pulling in the filament at a change. The stock Mk3 and my Bondtech extruders both use the older drive gears which seem to struggle pulling in the filament if the tip isn't pointy. Any tips on what settings I can change to make the tip more pointy would be appreciated.
RE: MMU3 Tip Tuning
Thank you so much for these settings! I was about to throw my printer out the window, but with these settings it works!
(Prusa i3 MK3S+ with FW 3.14.0, MMU3 with FW 3.0.2, colorFabb filament)
The challenging thing with deteriorating tip quality is that one needs a a few hundred filament changes for really getting to know if good tips can be lastingly created. Stringing has a tendency of increasing over time if settings or filaments aren't optimal.
Have you tuned your hotend temperature? For the MMU you might need a lower temperature than for regular prints to get nice tips. Generally for the tip quality it tends to be the lower the better, as long as your print quality doesn't suffer too much or you risk clogging.
Regarding material change settings I have used those for challenging filaments. These are rather robust, not so delicate settings generally leading to not as nice tips compared to stock settings with nice filament however, with nasty filament it seems much more as I said... robust. Especially against formation of long strings that tend to mess up the MMU.
Loading speed at the start: 19 mm/s
Loading speed : 14 mm/s
Unloading speed at the start: 140 mm/s
Unloading speed 90 mm/s
Filament load time: 15 s
Filament unload time 12 s
Delay after unloading 0 s
Number of cooling moves: 4 (or maybe 5)
Speed of first cooling move: 20 mm/s
Speed of last cooling move 10 mm/s
Ramming setting:
Change "total ramming time (s)" to: 4.5