Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes
 
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Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes  

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evekites
(@evekites)
New Member
RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

Tried my first dual color prints with this method. For signplates, it worked much cleaner and easier than with my Palette 3 Pro. 

The problem of missing the M117 message can be overcome by using a plugin in Octoprint. There are multiple. I've used the   M117 Navbar plugin with success 

https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/M117NavBar/

This way my Prusa signals me to change filament and in the statusbar of Octoprint I can find which color I must load next.

 

Posted : 25/04/2022 1:18 pm
Rainer liked
towlerg
(@towlerg)
Noble Member
RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

This way my Prusa signals me to change filament and in the statusbar of Octoprint I can find which color I must load next.

Nice find.

For signplates, it worked much cleaner and easier than with my Palette 3 Pro. 

Pretty disappointing for something so expensive.

Posted : 25/04/2022 2:43 pm
Rainer liked
MixMasterMike
(@mixmastermike)
Active Member
RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

I am currently trying this with a Mini+ and the gcode M600 works fine. It's also nice to experiment with objects rotated by 180° so that the letters of a font get printed directly on the (smooth or powder-coated) steel plate or as last layer for different haptics.

It's a bit sad that all of this seems to be missing from Prusa Slicer's included functionality at the moment and changing materials (filament types) is apparently not as easy as merely changing colors (of the same kind of filament), since the profile settings appear to get lost (at least sometimes). However, mixing PLA and PVB is working fine since the temperature is identical except for the bed temperature which doesn't matter so much.

My biggest problem however is the purging process after a filament change. Sure, purging itself works, but right after the purging, even more material gets extruded and I have to grab this excess filament with tweezers exactly when the next layer starts printing.

How can I add an intro line / purge line after every filament change?

This would eliminate this issue and I can't seem to find a code (or even a setting) for a stacked intro line. Maybe I just missed it. A whole wipe tower seems to be absolute overkill and it's apparently buggy in Prusa Slicer 2.4.2 since no matter how small I set the width and the (idiotically placed setting for the) minimum wipe area, the wipe tower is always a super long object and I cannot reduce its size.

; intro line
G1 X170 F1000
G1 Z0.2 F720
G1 X110 E8 F900
G1 X40 E10 F700
G92 E0
Posted : 30/04/2022 12:42 pm
Oliver-Andre
(@oliver-andre)
Eminent Member
RE:

As I described, just add as many skirtlines as you have virtual extruders (or a multiple) and hight of skirt up to the highest layer you do a filament change. This way the nozzle is primed on printing the skirt after every filament change.

If you want to optimize the result, open gcode in notepad++ and search for M600. Remove the first (and following T0), as you start your print with first colour inserted anyway. On next and all following M600, remove M600 (and following T...), go a few lines down and insert a line with "M600" after the first line with G1 X... (it is the first segment of the following skirt). So any ooze you miss to remove falls into the skirt, not the object.

You might add more distance between object and skirt in print settings.

Example for editing g-code:

M600 ;                              <== REMOVE !!!
T1 ;                                <== REMOVE !!!
M104 S230 ; set temperature         <== Edit temperature if needed
M900 K0.08 ; Filament gcode LA 1.5
M900 K45 ; Filament gcode LA 1.0
G1 E-1 F2100
G1 X159.205 Y59.709 F10800
G1 Z.2 F720
G1 E1 F2100
M204 S800
;TYPE:Skirt/Brim
;WIDTH:0.42
G1 F1200
G1 X172.958 Y59.711 E.43122
M600  ;                             <== INSERT M600 here !!!
G1 X173.631 Y59.815 E.02133
G1 X174.32 Y60.065 E.023

As you also can see, there is an M104 nozzle temperature command after the toolchange (here "T1"). First colour is T0, second T1 and so on. If nozzle temperature is not set correctly for the filament, you can change nozzle temp here directly (or add a line with M104 S... if it is missing).

A bit of gcode editing is no magic 😉

This post was modified 3 months ago by Oliver-Andre
Posted : 04/05/2022 1:52 pm
MixMasterMike
(@mixmastermike)
Active Member
RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

Thanks a lot for the gcode!

If you want to optimize the result, open gcode in notepad++ and search for M600. Remove the first (and following T0), as you start your print with first colour inserted anyway.

You are so right about that! I already removed the first M600 since it's indeed annoying that it is getting placed there.

A bit of gcode editing is no magic 😉

Yes, but I still need to learn (more of) it and this is basically exactly how I learn it. So thank you again!

Posted : 09/05/2022 11:35 am
ORDEEP
(@ordeep)
New Member
RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

@vintagepc
how to make separate G-Code files.

with bed leveling ?

 

Posted : 07/06/2022 9:37 pm
oriddlero
(@oriddlero)
Eminent Member
RE:

I find this extremely interesting, I downloaded the profile and the test STL files and I understand the usage concept.

Has there been any major updates/revelations since as was originally posted? The blog post on the ops website is from 2020.

Mainly am curious if there is anyone out there using this method to print flush logos embedded in complex parts or is this pretty much limited to simple, flat objects like signs/badges etc.

 

This post was modified 1 month ago by oriddlero

If my post helps you please consider downloading & making one of my most popular Prusa-Printables 3D models below:1. Ultimate Printer Knob Upgrade - The Best Knob of Both Worlds 2. Prusa MK3S Right…

Posted : 01/07/2022 11:33 pm
bapski
(@bapski)
Trusted Member
RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

i've been wanting  to try this method out but i cant download the profile. Nothing happens when i click on it. is there any other direct link that i can get if from?

Posted : 19/07/2022 5:05 pm
Rainer
(@rainer)
Trusted Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Simple way to print in "Real" multi-color without MMU or layer height based changes

Just tried, still works fine. Maybe try another Browser..

 

Blog: https://schlosshan.eu
Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/rainers/collections/rainers-customizable-things
Prusaprinters: https://www.prusaprinters.org/social/6508-rainer/collections/6900
Happy printing 😉

Posted : 19/07/2022 5:18 pm
Rainer
(@rainer)
Trusted Member
Topic starter answered:
RE:

You can print anything you like.  It is just a questions of how many manual color changes you are willing to do...

This post was modified 3 weeks ago by Rainer

Blog: https://schlosshan.eu
Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/rainers/collections/rainers-customizable-things
Prusaprinters: https://www.prusaprinters.org/social/6508-rainer/collections/6900
Happy printing 😉

Posted : 19/07/2022 5:19 pm
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