RE: Fysetc MK3S Bear Clone
Where did you get the LCD cover? I like that one
I guess such screen happens in case of bad display connection.
But.. on what printer did you print your LCD cover? First layer is just terrible... you know you just need to print it again, right? 😏
RE: Fysetc MK3S Bear Clone
So, got everything dialed in pretty good. Did a first layer calibration with a 100 x 100 square (-825 seems good.)
Did a PID cal of hot end with PLA. Will do PETG later.
Installed a snap in filament spool holder (which I had to slide in and redo my frame calibration.) First I Re flashed firmware and checked LCD cables were installed firmly Working fine so far.
Grabbed the g-code for a benchy and giving it a whirl……..
- next will print a new LCD cover looking for an stl of the bear one.
Thanks all of you for your help. Awesome!
RE: Fysetc MK3S Bear Clone
First print after playing with z calibration.
Amazon basics PLA. I used the g-code from Prusa Prints which is 215 degrees. I have found this stuff likes 200-205 on my other printers. Overhangs on this agree and stringing agrees a little too hot for this brand.
not too bad overall. Looks great sitting on the desk. 
RE:
One last thing. I had a hard time getting stuff to stick to the FYSETC PEI sheets that came with it. Once I took it to the kitchen and scrubbed with a hard kitchen pad with hot water and dish soap, it worked like a champ. Want to get something better but they will do for now. The ones that came with the MK3 worked perfect right out of the box.
RE:
Last post on this subject. Had a couple weeks with it now. Absolutely love it.
Changes: Replaced gears with Bondtech gears (Triangle Labs clone) and also threw on a Triangle Lab PINDA V2 (which they claim is the exact same part PRUSA uses.) It is MUCH better than the cheap knock off that FYSETC includes with the kit. My values seemed to drift a lit bit with the knock off.
Added a piece of 3MM nylon to extruder wires going to control box (used.....wait for it.....weed trimmer nylon line.......worked great and was exactly 3MM.)
Hot end is all E3D except heatsink and Heat block (TriangleLab.) Heater cartridge, thermistor, nozzle and all metal heatbreak from E3D.
Replaced the power supply wires with 14AWG silicone wires. Made them a touch longer so they would fit along the frame. Also more flexible. I used really good wires (had them for a different project, but had plenty left over.)
A lot of these things probably were not necessary, but I feel good about it. A lot of it I had on hand. I also sold my Ender 3 with a bunch of upgrades and Mods and made a couple hundred on that, so would I recommend? For the hobbyist? Sure. For a beginner, no.
Thanks for following along and helping out!
Long-term (7-month) report on Fysetc clone
Overall the printer has been pretty consistent. Print quality is about the same as a stock Prusa after tuning. Maybe a bit worse for faster prints probably due to lower quality motors, but for structural parts is not an issue. I've printed about 20 rolls of PETG and noted the following print failures:
- 4 unrecoverable y-axis crashes (not sure how many recovered crashes there may have been)
- 1 unrecoverable x-axis crash
- ~10 partial filament jams (due to overheating extruder motor during "ironing")
- 1 blob-of-death which cleaned up easily. The included silicone "sock" for the heatblock did its job better than the genuine E3D socks. All I needed to do was replace the part cooling fan duct since it was a bit deformed.
The only major problem was an intermittent power supply issue. During hot weather here, the printer would sometimes reset during heatbed or nozzle warmup. I contacted Fysetc support on aliexpress and they offered to send a replacement - I opted to upgrade to a genuine 350W slim Meanwell unit.
Upgrades/Modifications summary:
- Meanwell 350W PSU
- Prior to assembly, I printed out upgraded parts from this list: https://www.prusahub.com/home/Mk3
- E3D/Prusa hotend parts (heater cartridge, heatbreak, heatblock, and 0.6mm nozzle)
- Heatbed mounting holes deepened 0.5mm with 1/4" drill bit - after assembly I noticed a minor flaw on the heatbed - even when tightened, some of the 3mm screws poked up above the surface of the bed contributing to an uneven surface. I used a drill bit to scrape off a bit of material so the screws would snug down lower just like the original Prusa heatbed
- silicone/nyloc heatbed mounting modification
- TheKKiinngg textured flexible printing sheet
- Extruder motor heatsink and cooling fan (to combat overheating during long prints with "ironing")
Planned upgrades/modifications:
- X-axis bearings - the Fysetc bearings have gotten quite noisy even with superlube added before assembly. Surprisingly, the Y-axis bearings are smooth as butter
- X & Y axis toothed idler pulleys (the Fysetc pulleys are a bit noisy)
- Moons MS17HD2P4100 extruder motor (better quality, less weight, runs cooler)
Photo of Meanwell PSU upgrade
RE: Fysetc MK3S Bear Clone
I have a similar build. I upgraded to the Revo 6 Hotend. It's amazing.