RE: Extending the PSU cables.
I'm surprised no one has suggested a terminal block. they keep the original spade terminal, are quick to connect, and cheap.
Here is one option i found: https://www.mcmaster.com/5566T85/
print yourself a cover and call it a day
RE: Extending the PSU cables.
On this topic. When going to the more flexible wire, I would go one gauge larger diameter for current capabilities. Wire gauges are based on diameter, not current capabilities. As there are more strands, you have a larger amount of air gaps that don't carry currents.
Over my decades of experience, I have found that crimp connectors are not the best when vibration, movement and heat are involved. They do fail and I have replaced hundreds in the field. Proper solder techniques with a heat sink to prevent the solder from flowing into the wire when soldering the connector is the best idea. In rough usage areas, I have done a dual crimp and solder where I crimped part of the connector and soldered that in place and then crimped the rest of the still stranded wire.
Also, adding a bit of support at the connector, like the flexible nylon that is used for the cables on the print head will help minimize the flexing.
Of course, it all depends on the usage the connectors will see.
RE: Extending the PSU cables.
Hi everyone,
I hope it’s okay to revive this older thread—I’ve found a lot of valuable insights here, and I’m hoping to gather more perspectives for a project I’m working on. If anything I say comes across poorly, please know that’s not my intention—I truly appreciate the collective wisdom of this community.
I’ve built a basic enclosure using 2020 extrusion and 1/4" polycarbonate panels. Before I proceed with directing heated air into the enclosure, I’d like to relocate some of the sensitive components of my i3 MK3S+ outside of it. I came across this helpful guide: Replacing the PSU Wires on a Prusa i3 MK3S, and I’m curious if others here have experience with similar setups.
One area I’m struggling with is the guide’s mention of #4 lug spade terminals for 22-16 gauge wire, while also recommending 14 gauge wire. Has anyone used 16 gauge wire for this purpose? Would it be adequate? I can't seem to find 14 gauge #4 lug flanged spade connectors, and most suppliers only sell these flanged spade connectors in quantities of 100, which is far more than I need. Do the flanged spades provide a critical benefit, like preventing pullout? If so, is it possible to modify standard spade connectors to mimic this feature? Or does the screw connection on the PSU typically provide enough holding force?
Additionally, I’ve noticed a general hesitation toward using Molex connectors in this forum, yet my i3 MK3S+ seems to have originally come with them. Are there compelling reasons to avoid Molex connectors for relocating the PSU? If so, could anyone recommend an objectively better alternative? I’d love to understand the reasoning behind your suggestions.
Lastly, should I consider relocating the LCD assembly as well? My current display has a few dead pixels, and using the SD card can be cumbersome. Are there worthwhile upgrades available for this component that would make the process smoother?
I’d be grateful for any advice or resources the community can share. Thanks in advance for your time and insights!