Calibration of Z with a 0.8 nozzle
Hi there,
I just thought, lets give a bigger nozzle a go and 0.8 seemed to be as big as the Prusa mk3S can go so I got one. I had to muck about a bit to fit it (is there a way to do this without taking off the fan?) and the nozzle seemed different in overall height to the original brass 0.4. I therefore decided to play safe and run the wizard and the recalibrate. Trouble is calibrating Z was not easy.
I think this is due to the calibrating software not recognising the 0.8 nozzle. I did use the 0.6 (which is the largest setting in the firmware) but the zig zag was all over the place so I kinda guessed it and am going for a print.
Is there an easy way to do this or do you just calibrate with a 0.4 then swap the nozzle for a 0.8?
RE: Calibration of Z with a 0.8 nozzle
And this was a complete fail 🙁 Fought the setup file for quite a while before it even agreed to slice the file. Using a large nozzle sure is not as easy as you show in your video on changing it Prusa 🙁
RE: Calibration of Z with a 0.8 nozzle
No you dont bother using the built in calibration at all for any size nozzle. You use the Jeff Jordan Life adjust method. Its much easier to dial the z in.
Just add a 75x75x0.2mm square to the build plate , slice for the filament and nozzle size you are using and print. You can then adjust the z settings as its printing until you get the perfect bottom first layer with all the strands fused together into a single sheet of plastic.
Just make sure you print profile has the needed changes for the 0.8 nozzle when it comes to extrusion widths.
Bob's webiet has details on setting up for things like that. http://projects.ttlexceeded.com/3dprinting_software.html
RE: Calibration of Z with a 0.8 nozzle
Just slice your own part for the calibration print. Add a part and resize it to 75x75x0.2mm. print that and calibrate your Live-Z as it goes.
If your new nozzle is the correct E3D V6 type, it should not require a significant adjustment. If this is the case, you very likely have a gap between the nozzle and heatbreak. Disassemble the extruder far enough to be able to inspect the top of the heater block and verify no filament is leaking out the top.
I've dumped my notes on nozzles here if you'd like more info.
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