Prusa I3 mk2 clone, endstops software issue
Hi All,
First of all, I do own 2 original Prusa I3 mk2's (one MMU), but I had so many spares laying around that I just had to build a clone.
The clone is with the MK42 heatbed, original frame , a Rambo mini, nema 17 steppers ,an original E3D V6, ...
Almost everything is identical except for the end stops (since I can't seem to find the same end stops anywhere), and a few other things. I also would like to use the firmware from prusa, but the only problem I have from letting it work is the endstops. With the current endstops I bought I can only move my motors to one side and when I plug in the endstops from the original prusa I have it will move to both sides and everything is working perfectly.
The only difference in the endstop I can see is that it uses 3 wires in stead of 2 wires as on the original prusa, so I ordered different end stops with 2 wires but this didn't fix the job.
I'm also no marlin expert, but took a look in it, unfortunately I could not find a section where I could select which kind of end stop the printer has.
Does anyone have any suggestions on the software part on how I can get this to work?
Or... I also wouldn't mind ordering 2 new end stops which are 100% identical than the one Prusa uses. I only couldn't find them, I could try the live chat but don't think they'll offer it I guess.
Thanks in advance,
Tom
Re: Prusa I3 mk2 clone, endstops software issue
Update:
It seems that nobody has a solution for this?
Anyway I ordered 2 end stops from Prusa for around €6 each, so once they get delivered (tomorrow) I'll do some testing and can hopefully finish the clone.
But if anyone still comes up with a software solution, please do let me know since I'm still very curious.
Tom
Re: Prusa I3 mk2 clone, endstops software issue
Most microswitches (like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Medium-Lever-V3-Microswitch-SPDT-16A-Micro-Switch-/262558420165?epid=1380019231&hash=item3d21b38cc5:g:IswAAOSwyWZZXMXD ) have 3 connections. Common, NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open).
You simply remove the lever and connect the two wires to common + whichever of the other two you need (I think - but I may be very wrong - the NC is the one used on this printer).
Plus the Z end-stop which is an inductive probe with +5V, 0V and signal (again normally closed), but it is possible to use a micro switch + servo or a micro switch alone (as in the Mk1) - but you lose the bed levelling features.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Prusa I3 mk2 clone, endstops software issue
,,,
But if anyone still comes up with a software solution, please do let me know since I'm still very curious.
...
look inside the Configuration.h:
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...
Re: Prusa I3 mk2 clone, endstops software issue
Most microswitches (like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Medium-Lever-V3-Microswitch-SPDT-16A-Micro-Switch-/262558420165?epid=1380019231&hash=item3d21b38cc5:g:IswAAOSwyWZZXMXD ) have 3 connections. Common, NC (normally closed) and NO (normally open).
You simply remove the lever and connect the two wires to common + whichever of the other two you need (I think - but I may be very wrong - the NC is the one used on this printer).
Plus the Z end-stop which is an inductive probe with +5V, 0V and signal (again normally closed), but it is possible to use a micro switch + servo or a micro switch alone (as in the Mk1) - but you lose the bed levelling features.
Peter
Thanks that makes sense! I'll test those things out later and let you know.
For the Z end-stop I do use a original MK42 heated bed with a probe, so there I'm more than fine 🙂