Tips for Flexible Filaments on MK2  

Tips for Flexible Filaments on MK2

Random stuff that comes to mind. Post your tips here too! And show off any fun Ninjaflex objects you've made! (I was printing replacement parts for a telescope, nothing worth sharing.)

Tips for Ninjaflex:
* Do NOT print Ninjaflex directly onto the MK2 bed without preparation. The adhesion is OUT OF THIS WORLD. I literally used two pairs of needlenosed pliers to rip a 1"x1" cube off the bed, it took 15 minutes, I saw the PEI lifting up (though it seemed to go back down fine after).
* Instead, prepare the bed with hand and forehead grease. Seriously. Rub your palms against your forehead, get a friend to do it too, wipe that ALL OVER the PEI before printing. Everywhere -- even the priming area. Get a good coating. The grease still allows for good adhesion, but you can actually remove the part afterward.
* I found a larger nozzle (0.6) to be more effective, and I run the printer at 40-50% speed.
* I printed at 230C like the Flex preset suggests.
* Minimize your infil or you'll get bulging walls (5% grid is good at just giving the walls some resistence)
* Enable Z-Hop to limit stringing.
* Clean up your part with flush cutters.
* Give the part 1 minute to cool after printing but remove it before the print bed cools or it's never coming off.

Tips for PP:
* Mostly as above, but print the first layer at a cooler temperature (210), clean the print bed with alcohol and not forehead grease.
* Print AS SLOW AS POSSIBLE to give the layers time to cool, or they'll deform. 15 seconds per layer is not enough. I printed at 15-20% normal speed. I found printing all layers at a lower temperature to not be good -- it seems to like higher temperature extrusion, and it holds heat for a long time, and likes to deform if you don't let it cool slowly.