Slic3r settings?
I am new to this, so some general guidelines and warnings for changing print settings would be good.
I tried just using the basic wizard configurator. It works, but I have to set the z starting position to gently pressing the glass for it to print normally. With the given PRUSA.gcode, the nozzle would be too far down.
I'd like to set it up like however it was for the Prusa file. Like however they got it to do a nice extrude on the side, and print immediately at correct temps. My gcode files seem to delay a couple times during the start process.
Re: Slic3r settings?
Hi, if you install the drivers, you will have preconfigured Slic3r on your desktop and Windows menu 🙂
Re: Slic3r settings?
I thought this would be useful for when Mac users guess wrong and load the Prusa supplied file using File > “Load Config ...” instead of File > “Load Config Bundle...” and subsequently wonder why they can't choose a filament.
Remove the following preference files:
~Library/Preferences/slic3r.plist
~Library/Applications Support/Slic3r/filament/
~Library/Applications Support/Slic3r/print/
~Library/Applications Support/Slic3r/printer/
~Library/Applications Support/Slic3r/simple.ini
~Library/Applications Support/Slic3r/slic3r.ini
- Relaunch Slic3r.app
- Select Slic3r menu > Preferences > Select “Expert”, quit the app as required.
- Relaunch Slic3r.app
- Select File > Load Config Bundle > Select 175mm_Slic3r_prusa3d_1_6_1.ini
You should see the following:
Re: Slic3r settings?
As not to create another thread, I am having issues with Slic3r.
Most of the time when trying anything in the program it decides to crash.
The settings that Josef included work great. Except if you have fine small pieces. It doesn't handle them correctly.
I did try the settings found on this youtube video:
But I am getting gaps in my prints now.
This is very frustrating to get a good setting for the software. Thinking of getting Simplify3D if it just keeps the program from crashing. I usually do all my prints using the .2mm Normal. But again the small parts don't work.
Anyone have good settings for Slic3r? For supports? Small parts?
Thanks.
Re: Slic3r settings?
Hi Scott
Most printers of this type don't handle small parts very well as each layer print too quickly and the filament doesn't cool properly.
KISSlicer has a facility to include a "priming pillar" in the print - an extra object printed slowly and then thrown away - to prevent these issues. Another option is to print several models at once.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Slic3r settings?
For the small parts, it is best to print multiple copies.
Slic3r is crashy, especially since Allesandro started adding a lot of new features, he is currently rewriting the Slic3r into C++ which should solve it. In the meantime we started to make our own GUI for Slic3r tailored for our i3. GUI is actually what causes the crashes.
You can try rolling back a few versions and see how it performs. With older version on Windows you have to be careful with non ascii characters in folder and file names.
Re: Slic3r settings?
Thanks but what I'm wondering is smaller parts on a model. Take for example the x wing. The small extensions on the wings. I was doing a deadpool bust and the swords on his back just got eaten and turned into a blob of nothing due to the size of them.
That is more to what I thought there would be better settings for stuff like that.
But cool about building your own interface. Should be really cool to see what you come up with.
Re: Slic3r settings?
Scott
Different slicers will produce different results, especially with smaller sections of models. Some will miss the details out whereas some will print perfectly.
I read your earlier message to mean small models, whereas this was not your intention... My Chinese clone will not print some things, like the tip of a cone at all, due to a wandering XY axis.
Best thing to do is to download a few (free) slicers and see what works best for each model. Make sure you can "see" the paths of the file detail before printing. Print with the one which produces the best paths.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Slic3r settings?
Do you have any tips for a way to shrink X & Y only Slic3r?
Is there any chance that could be incorporated into the new GUI?
Re: Slic3r settings?
Andrew
There are a few options to change the sizes of a model. You can either use a modelling program (Tinkercad, Sketchup etc) or use a slicer which will allow the scaling of an individual axis (Cura, Craftware etc). I prefer Cura for a quick change, as it allows me to save the model as an STL file for slicing in different software.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Slic3r settings?
Peter,
Thanks for the pointers, you made me revisit Cura as I couldn't see how to save as .stl ... Cura > File > Save Model ... defaults to .amf and Slic3r says no, renaming the filetype to .stl and Slic3r still says no, however, typing filename.stil causes an .stl to be written and Slic3r says yes,; no obvious though.
Scale function in Slic3r appears too primitive, can't see how to scale an individual axis.
Yeah, must learn to model. Until then I'm handicapped.
Andrew
Re: Slic3r settings?
Hi Andrew
In the Windows version of Cura, you simply have to append the STL extension and it works fine.
Now the really very easy bit... Go to http://www.tinkercad.com create an account there and start tinkering. It really is so simple to use. Just start with a few cubes and move on from there. The amount of "learning" is exceedingly small and if you give it just a few minutes every day, at the end of a week, you will be creating all sorts of things.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Slic3r settings?
I'm in a low bandwidth area with unreliable comms, so I need something I can use off-line.
Re: Slic3r settings?
Autodesk 123D design? Very similar to Tinkercad.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: Slic3r settings?
Nah, sorry, having looked into what Autodesk have to offer, which is quite a lot, I'm not impressed with the greed and I will not be trusting them with my data. Although just a hobbyist who doesn't expect to be reaping any commercial benefit, I still find the bond of a recurring premium subscription for any commercial use especially disagreeable. Being old school, I'd rather just pay for the software once and be done with it, no personal information no usage data, no commercial rights to my creations, and no cloud.
I came across this tinkercad equivalent http://www.3dtin.com/ requiring a social media login, that's out too.
So, what does that leave, OpenSCAD?
Re: Slic3r settings?
Thanks but what I'm wondering is smaller parts on a model. Take for example the x wing. The small extensions on the wings. I was doing a deadpool bust and the swords on his back just got eaten and turned into a blob of nothing due to the size of them.
That is more to what I thought there would be better settings for stuff like that.
But cool about building your own interface. Should be really cool to see what you come up with.
Can you post the link to the model and what settings you used? Ideally the picture of the print too. This way we can help more efficiently 🙂
Re: Slic3r settings?
I'll dig it up in the morning and post it.