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Polymaker PC-Max on Mk 2  

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logan.b
(@logan-b)
New Member
Polymaker PC-Max on Mk 2

Hello Everyone!

I'm currently working on a few prints that require me to use polycarbonate but I am having a difficult time getting the prints to stick to the print bed. The first several layers are fine but it starts warping after that... Has anyone tried printing with polycarbonate on the Mk 2 and are there any tips you could pass along? I've checked out other threads in the forum but haven't had any luck with their suggestions.

Here's what I'm working with:
Nozzle temp: 260 (polymaker recommendation)
HPB temp: 80 (polymaker recommendation)
HPB adhesive: I've tried glue stick, hairspray, and all types of tape... I didn't get the buildtak cause I thought the PEI could handle it
Print settings: 2mm layer height, 45% infill, brims (tried 3-5mm), 2 layer rectilinear raft, infill speed is 60mm/s... If you need more info I'll be more than happy to share!

Here's what I'm trying to print:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Adaptable-Wheelchair-for-handicapped-Dogs/?ALLSTEPS

I definitely appreciate any help you guys can offer! Thank you, in advance, for taking the time to help me out 😀

Posted : 14/01/2017 9:34 am
bubbabubba
(@bubbabubba)
Active Member
Re: Polymaker PC-Max on Mk 2

I haven't done it myself, but I have been researching it. Check the last post in this thread: http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/print-tips-slic3r-settings-kisslicer-model-repair--f12/polycarbonate-won-t-stick-to-i3-mk2-october-2016-v-t2163.html#p20594

Seems those numbers are pretty far from yours so that may help.

Posted : 17/01/2017 7:07 pm
devilhunter
(@devilhunter)
Reputable Member
Re: Polymaker PC-Max on Mk 2

I have the same problem at work and tried everything short of a heated build chamber.

Which we are currently designing now.

PC Max is a tricky material, and requires a heated build chamber to minimize problems. About 50 - 60 degrees in the chamber should do it.

Nothing else you can do will avoid the warping. Even acetone to clean the bed won't help.

I've tried about 10 prints now, got 4 of them to stick somehow, and 6 failed around the first centimeter in height .

Posted : 18/01/2017 11:17 pm
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Re: Polymaker PC-Max on Mk 2

Which of the parts are you trying to print? The chest plates are too big for the i3MK2 and too big to print in PC-Max without warping without a heated chamber.

Posted : 18/02/2017 10:23 pm
MrMik
(@mrmik)
Honorable Member
Re: Polymaker PC-Max on Mk 2

I have the same problem at work and tried everything short of a heated build chamber.

Which we are currently designing now.

PC Max is a tricky material, and requires a heated build chamber to minimize problems. About 50 - 60 degrees in the chamber should do it.

Nothing else you can do will avoid the warping. Even acetone to clean the bed won't help.

I've tried about 10 prints now, got 4 of them to stick somehow, and 6 failed around the first centimeter in height .

Sticking Polymaker PC-Max firmly to the PEI sheet is not the problem. Just heat it to 110C bed temp, or even 120C. You will find it difficult to get it back off.

However, it will still warp, either by lifting the PEI sheet or by warping the entire build plate. That occurs only if the part is large, of course.

Any progress with the designing of a heated chamber? That's what is really required for printing polycarbonate, probably 150C air temp or thereabouts.

Posted : 18/02/2017 10:28 pm
JeffJordan
(@jeffjordan)
Member Moderator
Re: Polymaker PC-Max on Mk 2

❓ does the pc-max stick to petg ?
💡 if so, i would try to print a flat 0.200mm "sheet" of petg first, large enough to fit the models first layer surface, then change filament to the polycarbonate stuff (and rise the live z-adjust value by +200µm*) and print on top of the petg sheet.
this helps a lot when trying to get nylon stick to the printing surface.

➡ the advantage of this method is: you can get the print off the surface when you lift the 200µm sheet of petg with your spatula...
the disadvantage: you'll need to get the petg off from the first object layer... like a raft.

*) don't forget to correct the live z-adjustment value after the print.


...Any progress with the designing of a heated chamber? That's what is really required for printing polycarbonate, probably 150C air temp or thereabouts.

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
at this temperature the stepper motors and the electronics will fail for sure. ok, you can remove the electronics stuff outside the enclosure, but you can't do this with the stepper motors and the pinda probe.

dem inscheniör is' nix zu schwör...

Posted : 19/02/2017 1:21 am
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