Re: Different first layer results every new print
As my fix works perfectly for me I created a pull request on GitHub. Please test my firmware and if you have any feedback please let me know. If you like my custom firmware that includes only that small fix (compared to the stock firmware) please support my pull request!
Stahlfabrik,
Is it still working well for you?
Does your new firmware work without having to heat the bed before doing first layer calibration?
Do you have a link to it on GitHub?
Many Thanks!
Re: Different first layer results every new print
with me is not going so well..
First i changed from -0.420mm to -0.700mm live Z, i can get good first layer result, but second and all others layers will squish the fillament like i have the nozzle very near the bed, no matter i put -0.600 or -750mm, first layer will be affect, but the others act like overextrude.
Re: Different first layer results every new print
This is my first 3D printer.... I'm kinda wondering what I got myself into... Wondering if I made the wrong choice picking up the MK3.
Re: Different first layer results every new print
This is my first 3D printer.... I'm kinda wondering what I got myself into... Wondering if I made the wrong choice picking up the MK3.
I tried RHDreambox's approach and headed the bed for 10-15 minutes before beginning a print and then adjusted the live Z. Works so much better. There is definitely an issue going on with calibrating the bed when the temperatures haven't lined out.
Hopefully they will fix this in future updates. On another note is anyone's Bed level correction actually working? Changing my numbers had no impact on the prints.. Although with the varying bed temperatures its hard to tell.
Re: Different first layer results every new print
Regarding "if this was a good first choice" for a printer.
Yes if you had the money. It is a very value packed product. There are systems way more if you have the money.
Our first printer was a AE 8 type machine marketed as SansSmart 220 US on Amazon for the kit. Worth every penny payed for it's self 2X over with sales of "Trump Chicken)s. The MK3 we have now is worlds better than constantly tweaking screws to level the bed (one case).
For me the breakthrough on the MK3 setup was the very fine tuning of the PINDA height. Very hard to make reliably small corrections. I the end I printed a band to clip around it to mark the distance I wanted to move it. The sweet spot is very sweet and very specifically spotted.
After that the next was bed level correction FRBL. Do your best perfection can be detrimental.
My runs great we built from the kit made it look just like the pictures.
Re: Different first layer results every new print
Regarding "if this was a good first choice" for a printer.
Yes if you had the money. It is a very value packed product. There are systems way more if you have the money.
Our first printer was a AE 8 type machine marketed as SansSmart 220 US on Amazon for the kit. Worth every penny payed for it's self 2X over with sales of "Trump Chicken)s. The MK3 we have now is worlds better than constantly tweaking screws to level the bed (one case).
For me the breakthrough on the MK3 setup was the very fine tuning of the PINDA height. Very hard to make reliably small corrections. I the end I printed a band to clip around it to mark the distance I wanted to move it. The sweet spot is very sweet and very specifically spotted.
After that the next was bed level correction FRBL. Do your best perfection can be detrimental.
My runs great we built from the kit made it look just like the pictures.
Something I think a lot of people forget... 3D printing isn't perfect yet. We're not too far off from the Mendel i2, really.
3D printing Prusa Original or not is still not a perfect, "hands off" process. There are problems, there is tweaking required, there is an art and a science to it and each and every printer is different. It's a machine, not an appliance, and it has to be treated like one.
Going back on topic... Did you see the post about the bug found in the firmware related to the PINDA temperature correction? I'm sure that's been mentioned but if not it seems like it's an issue similar to what's be discussed here.
Re: Different first layer results every new print
Concerning the PINDA temperature correction, was that the correction where be changed a minus to a plus in his modification of the firmware? What was it exactly?
Re: Different first layer results every new print
This is my first 3D printer.... I'm kinda wondering what I got myself into... Wondering if I made the wrong choice picking up the MK3.
no, this is a printer with good support and a great community. my first printer had neither (portabee go)
I have have also had a prusa clone (wanhao duplicator i3) and when i go over to my brother's apt to help him with it i cannot tell you how happy i am now with my mk3.
give it time and it will be perfected. it has evolved quite a bit since I got mine in december and I imagine it will be even better once they catch up on orders and get more time to devote to smoothing out the software (slic3r and prusa control) and the firmware including this issue.
For now , if i was you i would stay aware but not get too drawn into these topics. dial in a decent live z with a little less squish on pla and your abs will be a little over squished. always preheat for 10 minutes or so to enable everything to be fully heat soaked and you can dial the live z a little less on abs, pet ect.
if you are only printing pla you will likely have perfect results since the live z is calibrated originally with pla.
Re: Different first layer results every new print
This is my first 3D printer.... I'm kinda wondering what I got myself into... Wondering if I made the wrong choice picking up the MK3.
no, this is a printer with good support and a great community. my first printer had neither (portabee go)
I have have also had a prusa clone (wanhao duplicator i3) and when i go over to my brother's apt to help him with it i cannot tell you how happy i am now with my mk3.
give it time and it will be perfected. it has evolved quite a bit since I got mine in december and I imagine it will be even better once they catch up on orders and get more time to devote to smoothing out the software (slic3r and prusa control) and the firmware including this issue.
For now , if i was you i would stay aware but not get too drawn into these topics. dial in a decent live z with a little less squish on pla and your abs will be a little over squished. always preheat for 10 minutes or so to enable everything to be fully heat soaked and you can dial the live z a little less on abs, pet ect.
if you are only printing pla you will likely have perfect results since the live z is calibrated originally with pla.
Thanks Chris,. I preheated everything for 10 minutes and that seemed to help get a consistent first layer. I still have the bed higher on the right side (more squish) and lower on the left, and haven't found a fix for that yet. If my prints are not big from left to right the prints turn out great.