Glue stick on Powder coated sheet for PLA
I've been having a hard time getting MatterHacker PLA to stick to the powder coated sheet. I gave them a call and they suggested using a glue stick and lowering the z height (which I've been doing with no success). Has anyone tried glue on the PC sheets for PLA prints? The Prusa "how to print on PC sheet" vijeo say not to use adhesive layers, but I'm willing to try it get this filament to stay put. It prints great past the first layer.
RE: Glue stick on Powder coated sheet for PLA
I use the glue stick for glueing paper together, never for use on the printer. (that's just my way. )
For PLA I make sure the build plate is impeccably clean, and the PLA sticks (I usually use a bed temperature of 70C... if I am having problems at lover temperatures)
Although prusa say otherwise, I have found that my flexible print sheets work best, for PLA, if they are washed with hot water and dish soap and rinsed with hot water, then dried immediately with a paper towel. some folk say that will cause rust... So far I have not had a rust problem with either my stickered PEI build plates or my powder coated build plates.
Some folk use IPA, however IPA tends to spread finger grease over your build plate, rather than remove it... I don't have a lot of luck with IPA.
Somefolk use Acetone, I have a stickered build plate that appears to be cracking up since using Acetone on it.
For PETG or TPU/TPE I actually contaminate the build plate with talcum powder, dusted lightly on, and polished with a tissue so that there is no loose powder. this gives a slight release agent effect that reduces adhesion,
If a PETG or TPU Model doesn't want to release off the build plate, I put a couple of drops of IPA on the build plate near a corner of the model, and let it sit a few minutes, this treatment seems to penetrate between the IPE sheet / textured surface and the model, causing it to release.
Some folk use glue stick,for petg or tpu/tpe release agent, I find this makes the bottom of the model messy. and makes the build plate messy.
regards Joan,
I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK
RE: Glue stick on Powder coated sheet for PLA
Glue stick is always a solution in case of "I don't know and I don't care".
I would suggest first of all to wash/clean the sheet really good as a first step. Second step would be to bump up the nozzle temp for the first layer. Don't hesitate +10/+20C from the ideal temp and reduce the speed for the first layer. Live-Z could be lowered a little bit but usually if PLA don't want to stick, it want stick even with lower Live-Z. But I assume you set it correct. Usually that helps already a lot.
Last resort is to apply a tiny ABS film to roughen up the surface without using sand paper. But this is a same category like the glue stick.
Often linked posts:
Going small with MMU2
Real Multi Material
My prints on Instagram
RE: Glue stick on Powder coated sheet for PLA
I used to use a glue stick but not stray away. It is only a last resort for me.
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Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog
RE: Glue stick on Powder coated sheet for PLA
I'm printing with a raft and at 70C now, it seems to be holding better though the skirt was jacked up and I paused to remove it. The 3 spools of PLA tend to string at some point on the first layer, typically on the blob strip it lays to the front left before the actual print job starts. Any suggestions on stopping this behavior? I'm printing all layers at 210C
RE: Glue stick on Powder coated sheet for PLA
Was about to ask the same question but then found this thread...
I'm currently printing my own remix of this Filament Retract Bank and I'm having troubles making full use of the Powder Coated Printer Bed...
At first, I was thinking that my MK3S' recently installed MMU2S was causing this issue when making use of the entire print bed but the only areas that would cause peeling off the bed were the ones near the edges ( 2-3cm in ) and it only got worse towards the corners ( 5+ cm! ) - First layers, including the brim, would barely adhere at all or peel off right away at later passes causing issues in the long run - That was with Prusament PLA. ( kinda wish I had a FLIR Camera at hand... )
For now, I solved it by disabling everything unnecessary ( looking at you Brim ) and cutting off 1/3 of the FRB's 3D Model in order to fit the print to the beds adhering area instead of the beds actual size but I'll be looking into the provided suggestions, starting with giving it a deep clean and raising the Bed temperature, before my next attempts.
Makes me think of Photoshop when seeing this picture 😉