Detail problems After 10+ prints
Hello,
My printer started acting up after I printed a T-Rex skull with a non Prusa glow-in-the-dark filament. At 70% it skipped a layer and I had to split the model in two parts and glue the parts together.
Did a couple of cold pulls until it was all good, no residue and just the one color of the filament used for the cold pull. Printed a couple of successful prints with prusament pla but when I tried to print gears or really anything thats not a simple shape I fail to get the small details right.
Did a recalibrate of everything an still no improvement.
Any clues to what I have done wrong and what I can do to fix this?
RE: Detail problems After 10+ prints
Do you have the stock nozzle still? Glow in the dark filament can be abrasive and it's possible the nozzle is no longer perfectly round. I would try swapping that out with a hardened steel nozzle.
RE: Detail problems After 10+ prints
Your bed is pretty dirty. Going by those loose strands, I'd say you have adhesion issues. Here's an info dump on the topic:
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A dirty PEI print surface. Even if you don't think this is the cause, it's always a good idea to make sure your PEI surface is clean before trying any other fixes. If it's a smooth PEI sheet, take it to the kitchen sink and give it a good dunk with Dawn (original formula, no vinegar or hand softener variants) dishwashing soap or your local equivalent (e.g. Fairy in UK). Use a clean paper towel to clean it off, and another to dry it. Avoid using any sponge or cloth that has been in contact with grease. Above all else, avoid touching the PEI print surface. Once it's good and clean, you should be able to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol between prints, 100% acetone when that fails , and another dunk when acetone fails. Worst-case, use a 3M 7445 ScotchBrite (1200-1500 grit) pad or equivalent on smooth PEI to give it a very light buff, but only infrequently. If you've got a textured powder-coated PEI print surface, the official instructions are to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol on it only. Rumors persist that some have had good luck getting started with these sheets by giving them a wipe with 100% acetone and a dunk with Dawn. Either way, there's no real warranty on these sheets. YMMV.
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If you have not already done so, try using Jeff Jordan's "Life Adjust" procedure for calibrating your Live-Z setting. It is much easier to use and understand than the onboard routine and much easier to make mid-print adjustments accurately with. In general, start high (less negative) and work lower (more negative) in large increments (e.g. 0.1mm) until the filament starts to stick on its own. When you've got your Live-Z setting adjusted properly, you should be able to gently rub the extruded lines on the PEI surface without dislodging them. Then start lowering (more negative) the level until there are no gaps between layers. You should not be able to peel the lines apart after printing, but the top should be regular.
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RE: Detail problems After 10+ prints
@bobstro
Thanks,
posting results after I’ve done a serious cleaning and adjusting live Z.
RE: Detail problems After 10+ prints
@3dbearnicorn
The more you know,
ordered some new prusa filament and a larger diameter nozzle, if cleaning and adjusting won’t do it I will have to wait for the new nozzle and try that.
thanks
RE: Detail problems After 10+ prints
Gave the steel sheath a thorough clean and ran the updated live-Z adjustment and everything turned out great 👍🏻 thanks 🙏