Cylinder printing advise  

RE: Cylinder printing advise

@roichu

I'd like to start by saying Deim is correct, DRY your filament, you need to.

Now lets move on, I took a few minutes and went over your .3mf project file, and the biggest problems I found were related to speed, heat and cooling, with some minor attention to support. when your printing something this tall and thin in many cases your going to want to slow the print down the preserve the quality, however this is not enough by itself, when you decrease the speed your increasing the amount of time the filament is being heated in the hot end, so we have to be mindful of the temperature and decrease it. As we reach the even smaller tip of the model, this becomes even more important and once again we need to slow the print down, as you may have noticed when you ran your prints, and in some cases drop the temp even lower while increasing the cooling, this process is similar with many materials however it's important to understand the properties of the material your working with to do this successfully.

In my version of your project I slowed the over all speed, in the case of this model your speeds are controlled primarily by the settings for Small perimeters, with very little emphasis on anything else. I used "Auto Speed" with a "Max print speed" to set the speeds for all other features of the print e.g. top layers, solid fill,etc,,. then moved to "Cooling thresholds" and set up a cooling gradient for the tapper at the top of the model. I printed my test in Prusament PETG since that's what you had called out in your project file, my experience with Prusament tells me to print it on the hotter range, normally this might mean 255 to 265C, however we know its going to be in the hot end longer for this slow print, so I chose first layer settings of 80C bed and 235C nozzle, then selected 85C bed and 230C All others knowing that I would also be ramping up the cooling as the print advanced.

Next we need to do something about the features in this model, they are tiny, to tiny to seriously consider supports. That leaves you with one option for the overhanging features in the middle and upper portions of the model. I used height range modifiers to adjust the extrusion width above these to features to provide support from the layers below, because the features are so tiny we can get away with this, although we need to expect them to be a closer then intended and think about maybe increasing the height of them so that they result in the desired height or post processing with locksmith files or emery board. After seeing how small the hole near the top was I took it upon myself to increase the size and change the shape to compensate for a similar problem as previously mentioned.

Now for the support, this model being as tall and thin as it is will want to wobble at the top, yes its possible to print it without supports, but your results and head will feel better if you just use one. It stops the wobble problem and saves the time of adjusting all the speeds and temps to compensate for it.

I normally make my stabilizers in my 3D modeling program, however this time I very quickly threw them together using 2 shapes and a couple of "Negative Volumes" they don't look like much but they were fast and they work, in the off chance that users don't have a 3D software under their belt this can serve as an example of possibility for them.

My test results.

The supports are break away.

(Prusament Prusa Orange PETG)

Adjusted Project File

Patas PRUEBA 1-10_02 Swiss.Zip

As usual I'm sure I left something out, so if you have any questions I'll try to answer.

Good luck

Swiss_Cheese