MK3S Printing issues.
Printer: MK3S
Software/firm: Latest
Hardware: PEI Power Coated Spring steel sheet
Material: PLA & PETG
Profile: 0.2 SPEED (First layer height 0.3 and speed 10)
Notes: Printing without brim.
Problem: Every time I print the print comes off or wont stick, it gets stuck around the nozzel creating the classic "bloob" on the hotend& Nozzel.
Tried:
- Carefully leveling the bed, resulted in ether the printhead is to low or to high, i just cant hit the sweet spot.
- Cleaning the hotend and making sure its tight.
- Cleaning the bed with alcohol while its cold (allot of times)
- Re-calibrated the printer
- Checked for errors
Results:
The pint fails every times, when the PLA/PETG flows from the nozzel it sticks to the hotend instead of flowing cleanly to the printbed. The nozzel seems fine when I removed and cleaned it.
I am at a loss what to do next, my next thought is taking the print head apart and assembling it again 🙁
Hope someone can help me out, any suggestions are welcome!
PS: Keep in mind the print height seems to be "ok ish" at the last print, but still it fucked up in the end.
RE: MK3S Printing issues.
have you tried drying out the filament? Use an Oven, or food dehyrdator. Look up the times for how long and what temp.
RE: MK3S Printing issues.
First of all the basics of properly cleaning your print bed. Theres loads of threads about it but to summarise, take the print surface to the sink and using plain unscented dish soap (fairy/dawn) wash the sheet thoroughly, scrubbing with a clean paper towel and rinsing the soap away in LOTS of HOT water. The point is to remove all traces of oils and grease. IPA or other alcohol dissolves grease and spreads it around in a thinner layer. Unless you use massive amounts of it. Nowdays with its limited availability not very practical to use a gallon each time you clean your bed. Hot water and dish soap works and is much cheaper. After its thoroughly clean dry it with more clean paper towels and avoid touching the surface with your hands to stop more skin oils getting on there. Stick it on the printer and heat it up to bake it dry at 70 to fully remove any chance of moisture (stops rust on the steel). If you are careful not to touch it you can go 20-40 prints between washes.
Once you have a properly clean sheet use the Jeff Jordan method to adjust your live z height. It works MUCH better than the built in method and makes it easy with a bit of practice to get that sweet spot you mention. Instructions here https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/life-adjust-z-my-way/
Personally I don't like the Powder coated sheets, especially for PLA as I find they don't adhere as well but ymmv, others don't have any issues. If you can get yourself a smooth sheet in the future. If you print with PLA you will come to love it.
Remember that the live z value for PLA and PETG will be different even with the same sheet. Petg the nozzle needs to be a bit further away than with pla. Once you have those 2 basics sorted you should get prints that stick.
Once dialled in you can do stuff like this (love showing this picture)
RE: MK3S Printing issues.
First of all the basics of properly cleaning your print bed. Theres loads of threads about it but to summarise, take the print surface to the sink and using plain unscented dish soap (fairy/dawn) wash the sheet thoroughly, scrubbing with a clean paper towel and rinsing the soap away in LOTS of HOT water. The point is to remove all traces of oils and grease. IPA or other alcohol dissolves grease and spreads it around in a thinner layer. Unless you use massive amounts of it. Nowdays with its limited availability not very practical to use a gallon each time you clean your bed. Hot water and dish soap works and is much cheaper. After its thoroughly clean dry it with more clean paper towels and avoid touching the surface with your hands to stop more skin oils getting on there. Stick it on the printer and heat it up to bake it dry at 70 to fully remove any chance of moisture (stops rust on the steel). If you are careful not to touch it you can go 20-40 prints between washes.
Once you have a properly clean sheet use the Jeff Jordan method to adjust your live z height. It works MUCH better than the built in method and makes it easy with a bit of practice to get that sweet spot you mention. Instructions here https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/life-adjust-z-my-way/
Personally I don't like the Powder coated sheets, especially for PLA as I find they don't adhere as well but ymmv, others don't have any issues. If you can get yourself a smooth sheet in the future. If you print with PLA you will come to love it.
Remember that the live z value for PLA and PETG will be different even with the same sheet. Petg the nozzle needs to be a bit further away than with pla. Once you have those 2 basics sorted you should get prints that stick.
Once dialled in you can do stuff like this (love showing this picture)
Okay, flex on us. Thanks. XD