getting good results from the standard mount filament sensor
I know most folks have a hard time with the filament sensor and either turn it off or fit one of the roller bearing reflective modified top cover designs... but I just had it save my bacon again when a 15 hour print several hours from the end the spool ran out when I would have sworn I had enough remaining on it (it was one of those spools with a very fat core I discovered) I was watching tv when the printer stopped and beeped ... the sensor worked perfectly once again as did the ejection of the stub and the load of the replacement... print is chugging along with 2 hours remaining I am convinced that my use of canned 'air' dustoff at every filament change is the reason. I blast the inspection ports on both sided of the bondtech gears remove the hinge light blocker and blast it there and also with the air cans straw down the filament path before I load the new filament... oh yes I printed a new hinge light blocker out of Prusa PETG orange to replace the black one which seems to have vanished
Re: getting good results from the standard mount filament sensor
Good to hear it works for some; early experiences were poor (lot and lots of false alarms); and my last experience was rather dismal, three false alarms, one a "please change filament" lol (no MMU here); then a fail to resume once the filament did run out. My filament sensor is off for good now.
It's the one part of the firmware I think has not been tested very well.
Re: getting good results from the standard mount filament sensor
I think all it takes is one spec of dust in the wrong place on the sensor to cause it to fault... so that is why I have settled on the blow down of the whole path area when I change filaments; but I don't fool myself that it is fixed... only good enough for now and with Prusa changing to a plain mechanical switch sensor they seem to think so as well.
Re: getting good results from the standard mount filament sensor
The S in Mk3S is for Sensor. The major change is the filament sensor upgrade to a design that might actually work as long as the ball bearing doesn't get stuck and cause jams.
A true microswitch with roller bearing would have been much more reliable.