Current advice / experience with hotend sock
After the heatbreak on my MK3S bent, I tried rebuilding the hotend, at which point I discovered the heater-block threads were stripped. I ordered a complete new hotend from trianglelabs plus more parts. The complete hotend comes with the standard blue sock. I've read some articles praising the sock, others disparaging it, but all that info was about 5 years old. I'm wondering what current experience is with the sock, and how settings need to be changed if it is used. It seems like having the sock on the hotend might interfere with the fan housing and would negate some of the effectiveness of the fan.
RE: Current advice / experience with hotend sock
Also, the hotend came with an orange horseshoe-shaped spacer to push / hold the black collar in the heatsink top up. However, the spacer has a "handle" on it that sticks out, and the housing doesn't want to slide all the way back together, so I'm guessing the Prusa housing doesn't have a slot to accomodate the spacer handle. Is that true?
RE: Current advice / experience with hotend sock
I'm wondering what current experience is with the sock, and how settings need to be changed if it is used. It seems like having the sock on the hotend might interfere with the fan housing and would negate some of the effectiveness of the fan.
I use an older type (MK2.5S) what has a 12 Volt system. Whithout sock, when the fan comes on (after layer 4) the hotend cools down very fast (giving errors).
With sock there is no problem at all. And you do not want the cold air on the hotendblock but on the printed object. So a good reason to use a sock.
NB: For good funcitonality I slice/cut the lowest ring of the sock off (about 1-1,5mm) so the nozzle gets a bit more clearance. Be sure to attach the sock very well on the topside of the block. It does not really click, but should be safely "over the edge". After time a bit of filament will creep in between the block and the sock (holding it very nicely).
Also, the hotend came with an orange horseshoe-shaped spacer to push / hold the black collar in the heatsink top up. However, the spacer has a "handle" on it that sticks out, and the housing doesn't want to slide all the way back together, so I'm guessing the Prusa housing doesn't have a slot to accomodate the spacer handle. Is that true?
I don't think the "handle" is needed. I would simply cut if off. It is the spacer what is important!
We will do what we have always done. We will find hope in the impossible.
RE: Current advice / experience with hotend sock
Socks are still a matter of religion, some believe in them, some don't. Pros and cons both ways. And yes, the collet tab, just trim it off.
RE: Current advice / experience with hotend sock
If I remember right I trimmed the upright bit off the collet and drilled a small ~1mm hole in it so I could hook it out if I need to remove it.
As for socks, I'm of the always use one camp. Was converted years ago to the church of socks our saviour 😉 Fan blowback from the part or bed can cause temp drops and a sock protects from that effect. Just remember to do a hotend PID tune once fitted. I don't use one for the non stick properties as I always make sure the nozzle is well clear like Eef but as a thermal blanket they cant be beat.
RE: Current advice / experience with hotend sock
Thanks all. I noticed the socks aren't supposed to be used above 260C, which means they have to be taken off to change nozzles. I guess it's probably best to do that anyway in order to have enough of the nozzle sticking out to get a wrench on.