PETG Material Table
Hello, I'm having issues printing PETG as it seems to string and loose adhesion bridging on each layer of the temp tower.. I understand its somewhat of an art to get this to print correctly... As im using a non-listed PETG Filament I was curious if all the filament listed in the Material Table ( https://help.prusa3d.com/materials) specificly the PETG have been tested and the proper settings have been listed?
ie. if I was to purchase Prusament PETG or Verbatim PETG and run them with the temperature listed or profile within prusaslicer; the outcome will be good. or will tuning be still required on a stock MK3s+ (or MK3s+ with a nozzle X upgrade)
RE: PETG Material Table
I would try to increase nozzle temp to help with layer adhesion. You will probably need to tune the retraction as well if you're printing hotter. It can be tough to find the fine line between nozzle temp/retraction/ and fan speed.
I use hardened steel nozzles on my printers and I print 10-20 degrees hotter than default temps because steel has different thermal conductivity than brass. I did spend time finding the right balance between nozzle temp/retraction and I have very little stringing. If you have droopy bridges, increase the bridge fan speed.
RE:
Thanks for the info, I haven't tested changing the fan speed or retraction and I am using a 0.40 E3d Nozzle X, is there a model you would recommend for testing? I did the temp tower and it seems that the lest amount of stringing is around the 230-240 range, the top of the brigdes are fine but the bottom you can see there are 4-5 loose ones. Think I was trying to "cheat" and see if the profiles in PrusaSlicer or the named filaments listed in the material guide have already been tested which would already include the testing and changes you ware suggesting. my big(er) assumption is thats the value proposition with the material guide/profiles, that they have been tested, validated, and work best with a Pursa3d Printer.
RE: PETG Material Table
In my hands, most brands of PETG print just fine with the Generic PETG profile. However, as @nighthawk indicated, with a hardened steel nozzle you'll have to adjust the profiles and—usually—print hotter (which is why I switched to tungsten carbide).
Having said that, while Generic PETG works well most of the time, some brands—or even colors within a brand—may need adjustments. Plus, you may want to try and dry your filament. Don't say it came right out of the bag. That doesn't mean anything, it might have been sitting in a warehouse for months. Even Prusament is not without issues. Jet Black and Orange, no problems. Pistachio green, not so much. Neon Green? A bitch. Crazy stringing and blobbing unless dried overnight for each print.