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Davebert
(@davebert)
Estimable Member
Noob questions on filament choices

I don't even have my MK3 yet (ordered yesterday) but I am new to all of this and have to study while I wait. I wanted to know if there is one filament that is best for new users and if so, what is it? My original reason to buy a 3D printer is to make replacement plastic parts for things that break and in a lot of cases the parts will need to be strong and durable and also for outdoor use. And another question is can any of the filaments be used together or must all prints be made with the same filament? I assume the same but just thought it would be a good question as I also have purchased the MMU and I can already see the need for lots of filament purchases so i want to get off to a good start.
Thanks in advance,
dave

edit: I am guessing after some research that PLA, ABS, and Nylon would be a good place to start... 🙂

Posted : 27/05/2018 8:28 pm
x50arm
(@x50arm)
Estimable Member
Re: Noob questions on filament choices

For your stated requirements, I'd go with PETG. There is some good comparison info here: https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.all3dp.com/1/3d-printer-filament-types-3d-printing-3d-filament/

Posted : 27/05/2018 9:05 pm
Joe Prints
(@joe-prints)
Estimable Member
Re: Noob questions on filament choices

PLA is by far the most forgiving, and easiest to print.
As for outdoor use- PETG is ok if you don't mind the color fading
ABS can be tricky to print-it can warp, does well outdoors, but also fades
ASA is your best bet for outdoor use, comparable in settings to ABS but does not exhibit the warping
You might take a look at Tom's video

Anything can be made better
https://www.myminifactory.com/users/Joe%20Prints

Posted : 27/05/2018 9:09 pm
Davebert
(@davebert)
Estimable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Noob questions on filament choices


For your stated requirements, I'd go with PETG. There is some good comparison info here: https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.all3dp.com/1/3d-printer-filament-types-3d-printing-3d-filament/

Thanks...believe it or not I was just there reading and have bookmarked that same page. Lots of good info there for sure.


PLA is by far the most forgiving, and easiest to print.
As for outdoor use- PETG is ok if you don't mind the color fading
ABS can be tricky to print-it can warp, does well outdoors, but also fades
ASA is your best bet for outdoor use, comparable in settings to ABS but does not exhibit the warping
You might take a look at Tom's video

Thanks for the info and the link. I will go watch that video now.

Nobody mentioned if any of the filaments can be used together (will they stick to each other) just to clear that up, can they?
Thanks,
dave

Posted : 27/05/2018 9:33 pm
JoanTabb
(@joantabb)
Veteran Member Moderator
Re: Noob questions on filament choices

I believe PLA and TPU have been used together

regards Joan

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK

Posted : 27/05/2018 9:44 pm
JoanTabb
(@joantabb)
Veteran Member Moderator
Re: Noob questions on filament choices

I believe PLA and TPU have been used together

regards Joan

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK

Posted : 27/05/2018 9:45 pm
Davebert
(@davebert)
Estimable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Noob questions on filament choices


I believe PLA and TPU have been used together

regards Joan

Thanks joan,
So I guess only a few have that potential and the normal rule is to use the same material on all of your multi-color prints. I was mainly asking so i know that I have to buy 5 of the same type of filament and mixing of types is probably going to result in a fail. 😎
dave

Posted : 27/05/2018 10:10 pm
JoanTabb
(@joantabb)
Veteran Member Moderator
Re: Noob questions on filament choices

Hi David,
the bottom right heart was done on a Mk3, using M600 manual filament change multicolour printing,

the others were done on a mk2 mmu printer

these are all PLA,

Below we have Black Sainsmart TPU and Prusa Silver PLA

this was interesting to print...

I set it up to print the TPU first, which was possibly a mistake

to stop the TPU sticking like crazy I put some forehead grease on the middle of the heatbed where I guessed the black would go...
started the print, and the nozzle temp went to 210C, which I wasn't expecting... so I dialled it back to 240, on the LCD,
the printer then did the outline in TPU, most of which missed the grease... then I caught the fan accidentally while changing filament,,, and the print failed due to a fan fault...

the tpu outline was a devil to remove.

I greased a larger area, and tried again... but the PLA didn't stick to the greased area...
so I stripped the filament off, regreased the buildplate... glad it's been hot over here, coz I had plenty of forehead grease... 😮

started the print again, when the TPU finished printing, the M600 code moved the extruder out of the way, and I wiped the build plate with an IPA soaked tissue to remove the remaining forehead grease, unloaded the TPU, Loaded the PLA and let the print complete

the TPU is 0.3mm thick, and the PLA 1mm thick,
I overlapped the PLA 5mm on each side to give a decent bond area. and it seems to have worked!

regards Joan

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK

Posted : 28/05/2018 12:48 am
Davebert
(@davebert)
Estimable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Noob questions on filament choices

Hi David,
the bottom right heart was done on a Mk3, using M600 manual filament change multicolour printing,

the others were done on a mk2 mmu printer

these are all PLA,

Below we have Black Sainsmart TPU and Prusa Silver PLA

this was interesting to print...

I set it up to print the TPU first, which was possibly a mistake

to stop the TPU sticking like crazy I put some forehead grease on the middle of the heatbed where I guessed the black would go...
started the print, and the nozzle temp went to 210C, which I wasn't expecting... so I dialled it back to 240, on the LCD,
the printer then did the outline in TPU, most of which missed the grease... then I caught the fan accidentally while changing filament,,, and the print failed due to a fan fault...

the tpu outline was a devil to remove.

I greased a larger area, and tried again... but the PLA didn't stick to the greased area...
so I stripped the filament off, regreased the buildplate... glad it's been hot over here, coz I had plenty of forehead grease... 😮

started the print again, when the TPU finished printing, the M600 code moved the extruder out of the way, and I wiped the build plate with an IPA soaked tissue to remove the remaining forehead grease, unloaded the TPU, Loaded the PLA and let the print complete

the TPU is 0.3mm thick, and the PLA 1mm thick,
I overlapped the PLA 5mm on each side to give a decent bond area. and it seems to have worked!

regards Joan

Joan,
Thanks for posting that. I like the comment about having plenty of forehead grease. 😆 I see how you used the TPU and had a time with getting it to work but in the end you got it done. Those heart prints are looking good. Now I have to go read about the Marlin M600 filament change although I ordered the new v2.0 MMU with my MK3. Something tells me I will end up with more than one 3D Printer when it's all said and done. Must be reading too much and all the youtube videos where the people have 10 machines behind them on a wall with 100 boxes of filament. 😀

Question: I am in the US and wonder if it is more standard just to use metric with the software (as opposed to Imperial) like with Fusion 3D? Is there any advantage to one over another? If I download an STL file does that have any influence or is it just g-code at that point?? Still learning...
Thanks,
dave

Posted : 28/05/2018 1:40 am
JoanTabb
(@joantabb)
Veteran Member Moderator
Re: Noob questions on filament choices

3D printing can be addictive

most of the world uses metric units.

the reprap community is based on Metric units

your prnter is based on metric units

if you use metric units, you will not have to make conversions every time you slice a model.

good luck

regards Joan...

I try to make safe suggestions,You should understand the context and ensure you are happy that they are safe before attempting to apply my suggestions, what you do, is YOUR responsibility. Location Halifax UK

Posted : 28/05/2018 10:38 am
Davebert
(@davebert)
Estimable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Noob questions on filament choices


3D printing can be addictive

most of the world uses metric units.

the reprap community is based on Metric units

your prnter is based on metric units

if you use metric units, you will not have to make conversions every time you slice a model.

good luck

regards Joan...

Metric works for me. Thanks.

Posted : 28/05/2018 5:54 pm
reid.b
(@reid-b)
Reputable Member
Re: Noob questions on filament choices

The trick to removing TPU- print it straight to the bed, no glue, tape, or anything else. When done, wick denatured alcohol (not IPA) around the perimeter with a q-tip. It helps to do this with the bed still warm. The TPU magically starts to lift off, with no residue or resistive force. I use this same trick to remove hot glue from any surface.

Posted : 28/05/2018 11:50 pm
Halle.s
(@halle-s)
Trusted Member
Re: Noob questions on filament choices



Question: I am in the US and wonder if it is more standard just to use metric with the software (as opposed to Imperial) like with Fusion 3D? Is there any advantage to one over another? If I download an STL file does that have any influence or is it just g-code at that point?? Still learning...
Thanks,
dave

If you import an STL file into Fusion 360, you will have to set the units to centimeters in order to keep the original scale. Otherwise you will have to do a manual conversion and scale your model properly. The reason being that STL files do not contain information about what unit was used to create a model. When Fusion imports it, it assumes it's centimeters.

I would suggest to work in millimeters though. After a while you will get a sense of it.

Posted : 02/06/2018 2:35 pm
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