RE: First layer calibration looks good, then I get this.....
I had the same thing on mine too, Pinda moving up, with the thightening screw being loosening over time and It probably happened following / since I print ASA (higher temp).I had to readjust the pinda, back to the basics with a full wizard calibration, checked my heatbed leveling too then,.
That's a good idea to put purple threadlock but, @ruebarb, where did you put the drop of the pinda thread ? on the upper side , once set up is done ?
I've had my Mk3S for 6 years, the pinda probe would move over time until I finally used purple thread locker. Had to reestablish my z offest too many times. Thier zip tie method to get the generic placement, but you need then run live z tests to dial it back in in. I used a different file to get the live Z, never found the built in very good. See below.
Go back to the old plate to sort this out, new plates need to beak in for textured. Stick far less when they are new, just another variable.
In my case, the pinda would wiggle up over time, the cable bend creates tension. The screw losening, allowed this to happen. Verified with height measurement. Never destroyed my nozzle, still using the same one, still prints perfect prints.
Are you sure the Pinda is moving? I have suspected mine a couple of times but then realised I had merely experienced some unusually rapid nozzle wear from white filament ... too much titanium oxide pigment.
Cheerio,
RE: First layer calibration looks good, then I get this.....
My pinda is held with a plastic tension tab, a M3 screw that goes into a metal nut. I put the loctite on the M3 screw.
Core One L MMU3, MK3S
RE: First layer calibration looks good, then I get this.....
Yes, that is the one
Core One L MMU3, MK3S
RE: First layer calibration looks good, then I get this.....
thx
I initially thought that the threadlock could be done on the pinda itself and wonder how !
By the way, I am looking to add a Core L, so roughly same printers as you.
Any recos ? Go or No Go ? via PM if you prefer 😉
RE: First layer calibration looks good, then I get this.....
By the way, I am looking to add a Core L, so roughly same printers as you.
Lakewell, I am also looking at a Core L but not until the NDXI heads are supplied. I would prefer a kit. Upgrading my MK3s+ to 3.5 with a REVO head later this month.
My pinda is held with a plastic tension tab, a M3 screw that goes into a metal nut. I put the loctite on the M3 screw.
I also thought you were looking at putting Loctite on the Pinda. I had an issue with blue Loctite degrading some PETG when I tried to get it on the nut. Ended up cracking. Doing a test now to see if it was a design flaw or an actual compatibility issue over a short period of time.
RE:
The issues I've seen is using loctite as bonding agent to the plastic itself, it is for metal fasteners.
Core One L MMU3, MK3S
RE: First layer calibration looks good, then I get this.....
First I would check if the nozzel is not loose on the printer head. So if the screws are not snug enough, you will get inconsistent results when calibrating and first layer hight.
Then I would check wenn the printer ist calibration the bed level. It should just go through with one try per point. If you have multple tries, the metal sheet may be not clean, has a worn shape or the nozzel is not tight.
At may exprience, when Printing PETG with a bedtemperature of 85-90° celsius, there are no problems with sticking. Even the bed is not clean. It just sticks on china metal sheets like nothing.
Cleaning: Normaly you just look at the printing side of the metal sheet, but the oppste should als be clean and there should no particles there. The same is on the heating bed. No particles. - If there are there might be problems when calibrationing. The printer walks through, but the print result is not fine later.
And last but not least check the nozzle pressure sensor again. Even there is no problem.
Then give it a retry and it should just work.
If it is still there, you may check the drive gear it it is dirty.
An last but not leas check the wire diameter! There are variations that may cause problems, but this used to be 2 years ago with no name brands. But having non consisten diameters results in a non steady melting volume/s and this may explains why one color is working, the other not. Last batch of filament was fine, the new one differs etc.
I personally think, you can forget about the exotic things. I would go with the first comments and then check the screws an you printer if they are still tight and snug. Than you will be good to go
RE: First layer calibration looks good, then I get this.....
Since I checked the Pinda level and did a full calibration , it's all good now with PETG, and as you said, even with no super clean steel sheet , it sticks.