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akerezy
(@akerezy)
Eminent Member
Wont Stick to Build Plate

H E L P --- it won't stick to the build plate

Can't somebody make a printer that just works?   One that you don't need a PhD in "setup" to make work. This is soOOOOOooOOo frustrating

Thanks

 

WontStick

 

 

Posted : 12/12/2019 6:32 pm
bobstro
(@bobstro)
Illustrious Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

Looking at the bit still on the bed, it's very clear that your Live-Z is way too high. The sheet does "just work" but you do have to set it up properly.

What is happening is that your part is either coming partially loose, causing it to wobble around as the printer continues to extrude (creating the blob), or completely loose, leaving the printer extruding in free air (creating the spaghetti). Your underlying issue is bed adhesion. This is a common problem that can be caused or aggravated by two factors that need to work together well for successful prints. Here's mama's tried and true copypasta recipe to get you going...
 
You are having bed adhesion issues. Filament should lay down cleanly on the PEI print surface and hold throughout the print. There are 2 main causes of bed adhesion issues. Even if you're dubious that these are the cause of your problems, they're 2 fundamental troubleshooting steps that you need to complete to rule out the basics:
  • A dirty PEI print surface. Even if you don't think this is the cause, it's always a good idea to make sure your PEI surface is clean before trying any other fixes. If it's a smooth PEI sheet, take it to the kitchen sink and give it a good dunk with Dawn (original formula, no vinegar or hand softener variants) dishwashing soap or your local equivalent (e.g. Fairy in UK). Use a clean paper towel to clean it off, and another to dry it. Avoid using any sponge or cloth that has been in contact with grease. Above all else, avoid touching the PEI print surface. Once it's good and clean, you should be able to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol between prints, 100% acetone when that fails , and another dunk when acetone fails. Worst-case, use a 3M 7445 ScotchBrite pad or equivalent on smooth PEI to give it a very light buff, but only infrequently. If you've got a textured powder-coated PEI print surface, the official instructions are to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol on it only. Rumors persist that some tribes deep in the jungle have had good luck getting started with these sheets by giving them a wipe with 100% acetone and a dunk with Dawn. Either way, there's no real warranty on these sheets. YMMV.
  • If you have not already done so, try using Jeff Jordan's "Life Adjust" procedure for calibrating your Live-Z setting. It is much easier to use and understand than the on-board routine. It's much easier to make mid-print adjustments accurately with. In general, start high (less negative) and work lower (more negative) in large increments (e.g. 0.1mm) until the filament starts to stick on its own. When you've got your Live-Z setting adjusted properly, you should be able to gently rub the extruded lines on the PEI surface without dislodging them.  Then start lowering (more negative) the level until there are no gaps between layers. 
Remember that the effectiveness of a solvent such as isopropyl alcohol is going to depend on concentration and volume relative to the amount of grease you're trying to remove. 71% pads work... on very tiny amounts of grease. A squirt of 91% works better, but if there's a lot of grease, you need a lot more alcohol. This is why the wash under the sink with Dawn is so effective: There's a much larger volume of Dawn-and-water rinsisng stuff away instead of just moving the broken-down grease molecules around.
  
And above all else, avoid touching the PEI print surface.
 
Glue stick is NOT necessary for PLA on the PEI print surface. You paid the big bucks for a Prusa with a removable spring still sheet with PEI, so clean it up and take advantage of it. Save the glue stick for printing sticky stuff like PETG that might adhere too well. Even then, I only find I need glue stick when printing high-temp PETG at 260C+ temps.
 
Try those 2 steps. If you're uncertain of the Live-Z results, post pics here of the 75x75 print bottom and you'll get quick help. If you want more detail, I've consolidated my notes on Prusa PEI adhesion, bed cleaning, and Live-Z calibration
 
A bit of trivia - The reason higher concentrations of alcohol seem to be harder to find is that isopropyl alcohol is most effective against bacteria at roughly a 71% concentration. A  bit of distilled water helps break down the bacterial cell walls. If you're looking in pharmacies, that's why 91% and higher seem to be hard to find.
My notes and disclaimers on 3D printing

and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan

Posted : 12/12/2019 8:10 pm
Ibn Sobh and Ken G. liked
rmm200
(@rmm200)
Noble Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

Side note: No one makes a 3D printer that "just works".  They all require correct setup and maintenance. Given those - you can get great results.

If that is your expectation - expect some disappointment and bumps in the road ahead.

Posted : 12/12/2019 8:53 pm
akerezy
(@akerezy)
Eminent Member
Topic starter answered:
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

@robert-rmm200

Actually.....the Makerbot is self-leveling and as far as the set up ----- it REALLY "just works"; however, their extruders are garbage and they jam up all the time - which is why I bought a Prusa

Posted : 13/12/2019 1:44 am
Curtis
(@curtis)
New Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

I have spent the last 7 hours trying to get my Prusa MK3s to work correctly. I have been through the entire XYZ calibration four times and just the Z calibration 3 times. I have cleaned the plate three times - and my model is still not adhering. I have another printer (Creality Ender 3) that I put together myself. I have to manually level its bed before each print - but I at least get a print every time. I purposefully bought the Prusa model because a) I didn't want to have to assemble it and b) I didn't want to have to level the bed manually before each print. The instruction booklet claims that the already-assembled printer has been calibrated - it wasn't. At this point, if I thought I could box this POS back up and return it for a full refund (including shipping), I would.

 

Posted : 03/07/2021 11:29 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

@curtis

You are still too high.  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 03/07/2021 11:52 pm
ssill2
(@ssill2)
Noble Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

Please use this

https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/life-adjust-z-my-way/

Clean your plate with some dawn and a kitchen sponge with the scrubby side.  Dry and then do the above method.  This is foundational to having any success at 3d printing.   Keep in mind that PLA might have a "right" zOffset and PETG a different one.  Also changing from textured to smooth to satin to whatever also requires you figure out the z for that plate.  The printer allows you to set up different sheet profiles so that you can quickly switch between material+plate combinations.  See https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/steel-sheet-profiles_1955/

The prusa is a fantastic printer and as folks above pointed out any printer is going to require something like this.  Auto-leveling is NOT the same as a your zOffset.

 

Posted : 08/07/2021 12:15 pm
Henry
(@henry-2)
Estimable Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

@curtis

Others have already said it, your Z is too high. This Prusa is my second printer, and I LOVE that it can do the live Z adjustment. While setting it up though, I was terrified that I was going to jab my hot end into the bed and scratch it to heck. But, I just kept lowering it. I got it down to about -1.5ish before it started to squish, and then about -1.6ish before it was good.

Posted : 08/07/2021 11:00 pm
ssill2
(@ssill2)
Noble Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

@henry-2

Agree.  It’s important to note that no two printers will be precisely the same in regards to Z.  I have two prusa assembled printers and the z offsets between them are very different.  This is why it’s important for folks dial it in on their printer

Posted : 08/07/2021 11:09 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

@ssill2

Isn't that the truth.  I have 13 Prusas, 2 Crealities, and 2 Anycubics.  Each has a different Z Offset.  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 09/07/2021 12:41 am
ssill2 liked
Curtis
(@curtis)
New Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

Thank you all for the responses. After adjusting the Z value over a millimeter, I'm now getting some limited success (still having trouble printing miniatures from HeroForge). My original point, however, is that the instruction manual claims the printer was calibrated at the factory as part of the assembly. To me, that means "plug and play." If I wanted to mess with the printer, I would have stuck with my Creality Ender 3.

Posted : 09/07/2021 2:41 pm
ssill2
(@ssill2)
Noble Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

@curtis

If you're going to stay with 3d printing you might need to adjust your expectations.  Every print can be a potential challenge in some way.  When I got my two assembled prusas they had a pla print on the plate right from the box.  However, getting jostled around in shipping etc it's good they force you to calibrate z when you first turn the thing on.  

Posted : 09/07/2021 3:00 pm
AnnieR
(@annier)
Reputable Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

Semi serious question here ...

Am I the only one who doesn't have trouble getting printed objects to stick to the plate?

Every time I log in here it seems like there's one or more people struggling getting stuff to stick! Maybe I'm just lucky?

Posted : 10/07/2021 6:00 pm
ssill2 liked
Diem
 Diem
(@diem)
Illustrious Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

@annier

There are hundreds of thousands of Prusa Printers out there, at any one time we see a few with adhesion issues; most of them are due to failing to follow the instructions or just plain not cleaning ...

Go figure: the 0.01% reported(here) fail rate suggests you are not alone.

Cheerio,

Posted : 10/07/2021 7:17 pm
ssill2
(@ssill2)
Noble Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

@annier

Nope. Very seldom for me anymore. The new satin steels hers are awesome

Posted : 10/07/2021 7:17 pm
Swiss_Cheese
(@swiss_cheese)
Noble Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

it takes some longer then others to get it, and still a few never get it. 3d Printing is not for everyone.

The Filament Whisperer

Posted : 10/07/2021 7:46 pm
cwbullet
(@cwbullet)
Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

@swiss_cheese

That is the truth and protectionism is the enemy of success.  Every print has its flaws.  

--------------------
Chuck H
3D Printer Review Blog

Posted : 10/07/2021 11:05 pm
jsw
 jsw
(@jsw)
Famed Member
RE: Wont Stick to Build Plate

I have very few failed prints, and those that fail are seldom due to the first layer not sticking.

I'm not at all shy about using an adhesion booster/release agent when appropriate, either Layerneer or glue stick.  I have not yet found a combination of filament/plate that will not properly adhere and release if proper attention to detail is done.

I do, however, have occasional prints that are discarded in what I would call an 'iterative improvement' cycle.  If a large print has a tricky part I'll often times do some cuts and test print the tricky part(s) with the intention of discarding it/them.  Drafting and testing mating pieces can be tricky.

I have not tried the satin sheet and I probably won't order one unless/until I have a need for it for a specific job.

Posted : 11/07/2021 12:26 am
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