Prints will not stick also
I'm having the same problem with my printer that is mentioned in the other thread about it not sticking.
I assembled the printer and everything checked out.
Accept 1st it would not recognize the fillement so I had to disable that. now it stopped the error or remove/insert.
It came with silver PLA
Now it will not stick to the bed during the test at all sticks the 1st line.
moves back sticks that line and then the 1st 90 degree it just drags it all over and wads up on the brass nozzle.
I have cleaned the bed every single time adjusted the Z and nothing is working any better.
Slowed it down to 75% turn up heat turned down heat still nothing.
Pretty disappointed with this so far. No I take that back really disappointed with this thing
Any help would be welcome
RE: Prints will not stick also
There are 2 major things that can cause your prints not to stick.
- Dirty Build Surface - I know you stated that you cleaned the bed, but some cleaners leave a fine residue on the surface, try using isopropyl alcohol to ensure there isn't any grease left behind.
- Z Height - This is the most crucial, at least for me. As you stated above you adjust your live Z Height, but is it correct?
- You should adjust it while it is laying down the first layer, if the z height is to high it will simply lay the filament on top of the build surface. What you really want to do is to SMUSH it down into the build surface.
- Although this is a fine dance. To low and it will not extrude at all, to high and the print will not stick.
Here is a good guide to getting your first layer they way you need it https://3dnewb.com/3d-printing-first-layer-problems/
Rich 3D
https://3dnewb.com
RE: Prints will not stick also
Just to add a bit.
You never identify which print bed you are using. The textured plate is significantly harder to get good adhesion.
Start by scrubbing your plate (either) with unscented detergent and lots of water. Use no IPA between this and your calibration square. Your alcohol is suspect... Contaminated alcohol can transfer oil to the plate instead of removing it.
The calibration square in firmware is not the best. You want a big circle that you can tune Z while it prints. Start here:
RE: Prints will not stick also
Ok thanks
Some improvement but still not sticking.
Here are two pix of the same print of the calibration listed by Robert.
I again have cleaned the bed with hot water and dawn while wearing nitile gloves.
I have also cleaned it in the past with rubbing alcohol and also the wipe that came with the printer.
I wish there were a way I could tram the nozzle like a milling machine or a lathe even if I could use a a gauge block or feeler gauges would be nice.
Anyways that's where it's at.
One thing I noticed over the OEM prusa files that came with it are :
Prussa is 215 heat nozzle
Bed is 60 heat nozzle
The download file is 225 heat nozzle
bed was 55
It did stick a bit better then the prussa file settings and the lower heat sticks better then me adjusting things up.
Still not 100% adhesion though if you look at the top right and the bottom left and there are other spots that broke free.
Thank you two for the help so far I have more time into trying to print then assembly so far.
Rich
RE: Prints will not stick also
It looks like z height still, although it's hard to say from the pictures. I'd guess it's too high.
You've said you tried Z height before. What ranges of Z height adjustment have you been through? You should see a difference with every 0.05 or 0.10mm change, but initially it may need a lot of turns to get to the sweet spot.
RE: Prints will not stick also
I agree - Z is still too high. Technical term is "Smoosh" the filament into the plate a bit.
Check Tim's picture of what a calibration circle should look like. It should peel up as a solid (mostly) surface.
RE: Prints will not stick also
I agree with the experts above but would add a couple of notes. I too noticed the temperature differences in the g-code and ended up modifying his file to set the nozzle and bed temperatures to Prusa recommended 215 and 60C. The nozzle temperature is of particular interest because the max recommended for the Prusa PLA is 220C. If you need help with that change let me know and I can provide my modified file.
You have a smooth PEI build sheet so PLA will stick like glue once you begin to get close to the proper live-Z.
Finally, while no one can tell you exactly what your live-Z will end up at because it depends upon the PINDA height relative to the nozzle tip which is set rather imprecisely with the "zip tie" method, typical live-Z settings seem to be -0.7 to -1.3 so you will likely have to go much lower than you already have to see good results.
Let us know if you need further assistance,
Steve
P.S. Once I had my live-Z set for my printer I tried an experiment with varying the nozzle temperature in 3 steps (across a single print sample) from 215 to 220 to the 225 used in Roberts file (bed always at 60C). The result was interesting as 215 and 220C were nearly indistinguishable but 225 resulted in "slits" and gaps in the extrusion. Since the only variable was the nozzle temperature I am left to conclude that the 225C temperature and Prusa Galaxy Silver PLA do not play well together :).
RE: Prints will not stick also
Thank you all for the help seems to be ok now
printing some south bend lathe parts to see.
Did print the JP whistle fine after I got the calibration square fixed up.
Rich
Again thanks all for the help