New Steel Plate - Do I Need to Re.....  

RE: New Steel Plate - Do I Need to Re.....

Do Live-Z calibration with the on-board routine at least once per sheet entry.

RE: New Steel Plate - Do I Need to Re.....

@bobstro

Thanks for the reply......I noticed the "stock" parts to test out printing or help with live-z  ---- are all PLA??

Is there one for ABS?

RE: New Steel Plate - Do I Need to Re.....

Posted by: @akerezy

@bobstro

Thanks for the reply......I noticed the "stock" parts to test out printing or help with live-z  ---- are all PLA??

Is there one for ABS?

Recent firmware has added different materials and options, but v3.9 is still at RC level. It's working well for me though.

You can, of course, create your own Live-Z prints easily for new materials and nozzle sizes, but you do want to complete the on-board routine at least once per sheet to initialize the stored values. After doing that, just create a square (75x75mm is good) at 0.2mm thick and print it.

RE: New Steel Plate - Do I Need to Re.....

@bobstro

Two questions....

What's the name of that file on the SD Card? 

Where/how can I download the new firmware?

Thank you so much!!

RE: New Steel Plate - Do I Need to Re.....

Posted by: @akerezy

[...]

What's the name of that file on the SD Card? 

I've attached a basic 75x75x0.2mm part that you can use, but any suitable square shape that is large enough to let you see the layers as they print will work. You could always just slice the Prusa logo file that came on your SD card and just stop it after the 1st layer. Slice the part using the nozzle and filament settings you plan to use and print it, adjusting the Live-Z setting from the menu to get the smooth top finish with no gaps as described in the "Life Adjust" thread. 

Where/how can I download the new firmware?

You can find the latest releases, including Release Candidate (RC) versions, on the Prusa GitHub page here. You'll need some sort of terminal software to flash the firmware. I do it via Octoprint, but there are programs (e.g. Pronterface) that you can use.

RE: New Steel Plate - Do I Need to Re.....

Just a reminder that you should complete the on-board Live-Z routine at least once per sheet to initialize the values in non-volatile storage.

RE: New Steel Plate - Do I Need to Re.....

I often have to adjust my calibration every 2-3 months.  If it stops sticking or I get less than desirable first layers, I clean the bed and/or redo my calibration.  

RE: New Steel Plate - Do I Need to Re.....

Posted by: @charles-h13

I often have to adjust my calibration every 2-3 months.  If it stops sticking or I get less than desirable first layers, I clean the bed and/or redo my calibration.  

That's a good place to start any time "something changes" with adhesion. You always need a clean bed and good Live-Z no matter what else you're doing.

RE: New Steel Plate - Do I Need to Re.....

Posted by: @bobstro

Posted by: @charles-h13

I often have to adjust my calibration every 2-3 months.  If it stops sticking or I get less than desirable first layers, I clean the bed and/or redo my calibration.  

That's a good place to start any time "something changes" with adhesion. You always need a clean bed and good Live-Z no matter what else you're doing.

It is amazing how many times I have fought with my printer for hours to just find it was a dirty bed.   

I do an escalation of force when I clean the bed:

1. Always start with IPA.
2. If 1 does not work, consider Dawn or dish liquid and water with adequate rinsing.  
3. Last resort, if 1, 2, and calibration fail, consider acetone.  

#3 is not recommended by Prusa on textured beds, but I have had to use it on occasion.