Failed Prints - Detaching from Print Bed After 75% complete
SO I built the i3 MK3S yesterday and started my calibrations and test prints from SD Card.
I spent quite a few trial runs just getting the first layer to where i felt it was solid and laid a good bead. I had tried to print the whistle when I didnt have good adhesion and it failed very close to bottom. I then adjusted Z level again and away we went - printed the whistle - perfect. Printed Batman Logo - failed.
Adjusted Z level again for First print - all seemed good. printed Marvin - he was 75% of way through was looking rock solid - walked away for 10 mins and came back and hes detached from bed and is stuck to nozzle.......
All printed on the PEI bed which I love (texture wise) do I need a higher bed temp other than the 60 Deg as standard? Do I need more spread on First Layer.......it's so close but so far.....
I know I am being impatient and this printer is awesome - loved the build, just want to start getting consistent easy prints before I start a big one.....
Suggestions?
RE: Failed Prints - Detaching from Print Bed After 75% complete
Bison,
A question, you note that you are printing on the "PEI bed" be advised that both build sheets are PEI so you need to specify smooth versus textured. From your parenthetical note I am going to assume that you are using the textured build plate and also printing with PLA (this assumption because I expect you are using the filament that came with the kit). The following is (mostly) predicated on these assumptions.
First, the key to successful print adhesion, especially with the textured sheet (most experts agree) is bed cleanliness. Most will advise you to forgo the isopropyl alcohol wipe down for a thorough scrubbing with an unscented dish detergent (Dawn is a favorite in the U.S.A., Fairy in the UK) and copious amounts of HOT water. Use clean paper towels to wash and dry and then don't touch the build surface again, skin oil is the enemy of print adhesion and alcohol just smears it around.
Now that your build plate is clean and dry you are ready to adjust your live-Z for real. First, make sure that you have 7x7 mesh bed leveling turned on in the settings, this will ensure the best opportunity for the firmware to accommodate the slight warping inherent in heating the bed. Now go to this forum posting "Life adjust Z - my way" and download the appropriate sample file for your material (PLA) and print it while following the instructions in the first post for adjusting your live-Z.
Once you think you have a good coupon, share a picture here and others will likely weigh in on your success. The coupon should pull up from the build surface as one solid sheet. Note, the firmware can store different live-Z values for different build sheets so make certain you have selected the correct one in firmware before you start.
Now that you have a clean sheet and a good live-Z you should have much greater success with printing.
One more thing to watch for is drafts around your printer. PLA is pretty forgiving but if the part cools too quickly it can shrink and warp away from the plate.
RE: Failed Prints - Detaching from Print Bed After 75% complete
@steve_g
Hi Steve - thanks for feedback. Yes I am using Textured Bed. Also using the Prusament Filament PLA Orange to be precise.
I had cleaned the bed with Acetone but I appreciate your comment about dish soap (as an expat from the UK living in the US I really appreciate the reference to Fairy), I will do that after the next print finishes.
I opted to increase Bed Temp to 64 Deg it seems to be working so far quarter way through Benchy print and things are looking good.....
Thanks for the assist and I will update when this one finishes.
Now how to upload images........hmm I'll figure it out!
RE: Failed Prints - Detaching from Print Bed After 75% complete
Just a note: Acetone should really never be needed on a PEI sheet (smooth or textured) for PLA or PETG.
That stuff is not good for you - or the sheet. Only use it when really needed.
Do lay in a good supply of IPA (91% or better). Put the supply you use in a squirt bottle, so a rag never touches your source.
Hot water scrub with unscented detergent maybe monthly.
RE: Failed Prints - Detaching from Print Bed After 75% complete
@robert-rmm200
Thanks - always a supply of IPA (the beer not Iso-Propyl Alcohol) - Acetone isn't too bad for you and have it on hand.
After discussions with Steve yesterday I think I have my problem figured out - my bed temp needed to increase slightly due to a cold basement. I am currently 11 hours into a 13 hour print and all is fine this morning. Thanks for your guys help and assistance......it is so much easier with experts and old hands like you guys who've done this for a while.