[Tipp] - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend  

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

If you want all new hotend, you need direct drive version, not bowden: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

If you want all new hotend, you need direct drive version, not bowden: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal

Thanks for clearing that up ! 12 v is the correct one i assume 🙂

What about the screw fro securing the thermistor, this screw is not present at my current hotend.....

Do you know how to switch thermistor or heating cables ?

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

As David says on the kit go for the direct.

I would go for the whole kit mainly because you add the heatbreak, heatblock and other bits plus postage your not far from a new kit. Keep the old parts as spares if you can salvage any bits. The wiring too will be much easier as it will all be included.

Was your MK2 prebuilt or kit? If prebuilt have a look at the kit build instructions for changing the wires over.

12v is the one you need.

Or go the fully assembled kit but it is more.
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/V6-hotend-Fully-Assembled-1.75mm-and-3mm

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Manuel

The thermistor is not glued in place; it is held in with a screw. The early models had the screw in the side and the screw held the thermistor wires in place. The later model has the screw underneath and the thermistor is encased in a brass sleeve.

The later model has two screws underneath, whereas the earlier model has only one.

Likewise, the heater is held in place by a screw in the heat block underside on both models. Undo the screw and use a screwdriver to open the gap in the side of the block to release the heater cartridge. Do not try to remove the cables from the heater cartridge or you will need to purchase a heater cartridge as well.

Peter

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Manuel

The thermistor is not glued in place; it is held in with a screw. The early models had the screw in the side and the screw held the thermistor wires in place. The later model has the screw underneath and the thermistor is encased in a brass sleeve.

The later model has two screws underneath, whereas the earlier model has only one.

Likewise, the heater is held in place by a screw in the heat block underside on both models. Undo the screw and use a screwdriver to open the gap in the side of the block to release the heater cartridge. Do not try to remove the cables from the heater cartridge or you will need to purchase a heater cartridge as well.

Peter

Hi Peter,

Well i do understand your comment but i can not find the screw for the thermistor....
Here are some pics.

So what would you recommend ? Also a new v6 (would try to assemble it myself ) or a upgrade kit ?
Do you see any way to recover the heat break ?

Thank you!

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

You could use thermostatic (adjustable) soldering iron to heat it up to 300°C and then untighten the nozzle. It is not very convenient but it should work without destroying anything.

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

That looks like you have the new style thermister so no screw on the side 😀

If you print with ABS you could try soaking in acetone to remove residue.

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Manuel

Old style on left with thermistor hole and screw on the right side and new style block on the right.

You appear to have the new style, so the thermistor screw should be under the mess next to the nozzle.

David

I think it would be quite impossible to use a soldering iron to heat the block sufficiently to melt the plastic.

Peter

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

I think it would be quite impossible to use a soldering iron to heat the block sufficiently to melt the plastic
It's worth trying. Standard procedure is to heat it using heating element and then untighten the nozzle. Soldering iron is way more powerful.

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Would it be possible to heat up in a saucepan? The heat should transfer without any burning of wires?

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Soldering iron is way more powerful.

Yes, but a 50W soldering iron does not produce 50 Watts of heat at the tip. It's probably only half that and then you are trying to heat an aluminium block from the outside; a completely different prospect than heating from within.

Far better is to use either the heater cartridge (put a 180K* resistor across the broken leads to "create" a temperature) or use a flame (but that' is probably going too far). I tend to use a cigarette lighter when I need to heat up the heat break, but in this instance I would use resistor and heater cartridge.

Peter

* The thermistors are 200K NTC; 200 KOhms at 25 degrees C, negative temperature coef. (higher temp = lower resistance), so with a 180K resistor, the processor would "see" a temp of somewhere between 20 and 50 degrees, I guess...

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

There is one more way, but it depends on whether Manuel wants to keep old heater block or not. If not, he should be able to force-untighten the nozzle in cold state. He will most likely destroy the thread in heater block, but the nozzle should go out. He will then be able to unscrew the heatbreak with almost no effort.

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Hi Manuel

some people (namely my wife 🙂 ) might say it is not nice, but I have heated a hot end in my kitchen oven to apr. 200°C
After that (using pliers 😉 ) it was easy to get everything apart.

I am not sure where your thermistor cable broke. in case there is a rest peace on the thermistor you might be able to temporary fix it with soldering (the joint will break as soon as the hot end gets hot!) or crimping it to the wire (hoping it is long enough)

All the Best
Frank

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Hello Guys,

Ok I went for the full hotend kit. I will try to recover my heat-break for spare parts 🙂 I also ordered a spare thermistor.

I would like to use the heater block upside down, so the two holes for the temp. sensor screw and the heater wires are on the top side. This way i hope they will stay cleaner and i will also use the socks 🙂

Does anything speak against the upside down heater block so that the screws are on the top?

Could i seal the holes with kapton tape so keep them clean ?

Thanks

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Kapton tape all the way. I have not heard of the block upside so I would be interested in hearing what others think.

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

The socks are designed to be used with the heater block in the intended position of the screws facing downward. These will keep the block and nozzle clean.

Also, mounting it upside down will make it harder if you need to change the thermistor or heat cartridge as you would then have to remove the nozzle and block to accomplish the task.

Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

This is E3D stance on heater block orientation:

The issue with mounting the heater block upside down is that the plastic can cool slightly before it leaves the nozzle due to the distance away from the heater cartridge.

This could potentially cause jamming or de-lamination issues once you start printing.

We always suggest that you mount the heater cartridge lowermost.

Peter