[Tipp] - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend
 
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Linux User Group Oberschwaben
(@linux-user-group-oberschwaben)
Estimable Member
[Tipp] - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Hi fellow Prusa users,

This guide will help to buy you a replacement Hotend, if you need one 🙂 Thanks for all the kind forum users who provided me with the answers so i can make this guide and be helpful to others 🙂 This guide is only applicable to the MK2 version of the printer!

What is a Hot-End?

A Hotend is made up of these parts (from bottom to top)

1. Nozzle (screw-able into heater-block)
2. Heater block
3. Heat-Brake (screw-able into heater-block)
4. Cooling Block. (screwable into heat-brake)

Why do I need a replacement of some parts?

- Cables are broken off from thermistor or heater block
- You damaged the heat break or the heatblock
- Dirty heater block with clogged screws etc
- ....

What should i get?

12v Direct V6 Hotend full kit:
-> http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal

You could also get that upgrade kit if you just want to switch your heater block:
-> http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/V6-Block-Sock-Kit

If you just want to switch you thermistor look here:
-> http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/Thermistor-Cartridge

If you need other replacements look here:
-> http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares

Tipps:

- Use kapton tape to close the holes from the screws and sensor so no plastic gets in an can clog it!

- If your thermistor broke one of the cables and you need to heat the heater block the remove the heat-brake you can use an oven to heat it to 200 degrees and then remove the heatbrake and nozzle.

Hope this helps 🙂

Original Conversation:

I had a clogged bowden tubing (PLA molted/expanded) inside, while fixig this, my wire from the thermistor of the hot end (v6) broke of.

Now i have to buy a new thermistor and i would l like to get a new heat block as well as the old one is quite dirty.

So here are my first questions:

1. I think this is the right one to buy: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/V6-Block-Sock-Kit Correct ?

2. As the thermistor is broken i can not heat up the heater block and unscrew the heat-break, So i need a new one i guess? Is it worth to buy a fully new kit ?
Would this be the right one ? -> http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Bowden

As you can see in this version is the thermistor is secured with a screw which is a good upgrade to my version where the thermistor is glued in i think....
Or is this the wrong/older version ? (As the socks don't seem to account for that screw)
-----

Next HARDWARE Questions:

- How do i replace the thermistor ? I can not get the old one out of the heater block.... Is it glued in ?

- How would i replace the heater wires for the heater block ? They are definitely cemented in....

Thanks for reading this far 🙂

Manuel

Respondido : 29/09/2016 1:23 pm
David T.
(@david-t)
Noble Member
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

If you want all new hotend, you need direct drive version, not bowden: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal

Respondido : 29/09/2016 1:28 pm
Linux User Group Oberschwaben
(@linux-user-group-oberschwaben)
Estimable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

If you want all new hotend, you need direct drive version, not bowden: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal

Thanks for clearing that up ! 12 v is the correct one i assume 🙂

What about the screw fro securing the thermistor, this screw is not present at my current hotend.....

Do you know how to switch thermistor or heating cables ?

Respondido : 29/09/2016 1:31 pm
Ben
 Ben
(@ben)
Reputable Member
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

As David says on the kit go for the direct.

I would go for the whole kit mainly because you add the heatbreak, heatblock and other bits plus postage your not far from a new kit. Keep the old parts as spares if you can salvage any bits. The wiring too will be much easier as it will all be included.

Was your MK2 prebuilt or kit? If prebuilt have a look at the kit build instructions for changing the wires over.

12v is the one you need.

Or go the fully assembled kit but it is more.
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/V6-hotend-Fully-Assembled-1.75mm-and-3mm

Respondido : 29/09/2016 1:33 pm
PJR
 PJR
(@pjr)
Antient Member Moderator
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Manuel

The thermistor is not glued in place; it is held in with a screw. The early models had the screw in the side and the screw held the thermistor wires in place. The later model has the screw underneath and the thermistor is encased in a brass sleeve.

The later model has two screws underneath, whereas the earlier model has only one.

Likewise, the heater is held in place by a screw in the heat block underside on both models. Undo the screw and use a screwdriver to open the gap in the side of the block to release the heater cartridge. Do not try to remove the cables from the heater cartridge or you will need to purchase a heater cartridge as well.

Peter

Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…

Respondido : 29/09/2016 1:34 pm
Linux User Group Oberschwaben
(@linux-user-group-oberschwaben)
Estimable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Manuel

The thermistor is not glued in place; it is held in with a screw. The early models had the screw in the side and the screw held the thermistor wires in place. The later model has the screw underneath and the thermistor is encased in a brass sleeve.

The later model has two screws underneath, whereas the earlier model has only one.

Likewise, the heater is held in place by a screw in the heat block underside on both models. Undo the screw and use a screwdriver to open the gap in the side of the block to release the heater cartridge. Do not try to remove the cables from the heater cartridge or you will need to purchase a heater cartridge as well.

Peter

Hi Peter,

Well i do understand your comment but i can not find the screw for the thermistor....
Here are some pics.

So what would you recommend ? Also a new v6 (would try to assemble it myself ) or a upgrade kit ?
Do you see any way to recover the heat break ?

Thank you!

Respondido : 29/09/2016 1:42 pm
David T.
(@david-t)
Noble Member
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

You could use thermostatic (adjustable) soldering iron to heat it up to 300°C and then untighten the nozzle. It is not very convenient but it should work without destroying anything.

Respondido : 29/09/2016 1:49 pm
Ben
 Ben
(@ben)
Reputable Member
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

That looks like you have the new style thermister so no screw on the side 😀

If you print with ABS you could try soaking in acetone to remove residue.

Respondido : 29/09/2016 1:53 pm
PJR
 PJR
(@pjr)
Antient Member Moderator
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Manuel

Old style on left with thermistor hole and screw on the right side and new style block on the right.

You appear to have the new style, so the thermistor screw should be under the mess next to the nozzle.

David

I think it would be quite impossible to use a soldering iron to heat the block sufficiently to melt the plastic.

Peter

Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…

Respondido : 29/09/2016 2:21 pm
David T.
(@david-t)
Noble Member
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

I think it would be quite impossible to use a soldering iron to heat the block sufficiently to melt the plastic
It's worth trying. Standard procedure is to heat it using heating element and then untighten the nozzle. Soldering iron is way more powerful.

Respondido : 29/09/2016 2:29 pm
Ben
 Ben
(@ben)
Reputable Member
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Would it be possible to heat up in a saucepan? The heat should transfer without any burning of wires?

Respondido : 29/09/2016 2:35 pm
PJR
 PJR
(@pjr)
Antient Member Moderator
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Soldering iron is way more powerful.

Yes, but a 50W soldering iron does not produce 50 Watts of heat at the tip. It's probably only half that and then you are trying to heat an aluminium block from the outside; a completely different prospect than heating from within.

Far better is to use either the heater cartridge (put a 180K* resistor across the broken leads to "create" a temperature) or use a flame (but that' is probably going too far). I tend to use a cigarette lighter when I need to heat up the heat break, but in this instance I would use resistor and heater cartridge.

Peter

* The thermistors are 200K NTC; 200 KOhms at 25 degrees C, negative temperature coef. (higher temp = lower resistance), so with a 180K resistor, the processor would "see" a temp of somewhere between 20 and 50 degrees, I guess...

Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…

Respondido : 29/09/2016 3:38 pm
David T.
(@david-t)
Noble Member
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

There is one more way, but it depends on whether Manuel wants to keep old heater block or not. If not, he should be able to force-untighten the nozzle in cold state. He will most likely destroy the thread in heater block, but the nozzle should go out. He will then be able to unscrew the heatbreak with almost no effort.

Respondido : 29/09/2016 3:48 pm
franksanderdo
(@franksanderdo)
Active Member
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Hi Manuel

some people (namely my wife 🙂 ) might say it is not nice, but I have heated a hot end in my kitchen oven to apr. 200°C
After that (using pliers 😉 ) it was easy to get everything apart.

I am not sure where your thermistor cable broke. in case there is a rest peace on the thermistor you might be able to temporary fix it with soldering (the joint will break as soon as the hot end gets hot!) or crimping it to the wire (hoping it is long enough)

All the Best
Frank

Respondido : 29/09/2016 4:04 pm
Linux User Group Oberschwaben
(@linux-user-group-oberschwaben)
Estimable Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Hello Guys,

Ok I went for the full hotend kit. I will try to recover my heat-break for spare parts 🙂 I also ordered a spare thermistor.

I would like to use the heater block upside down, so the two holes for the temp. sensor screw and the heater wires are on the top side. This way i hope they will stay cleaner and i will also use the socks 🙂

Does anything speak against the upside down heater block so that the screws are on the top?

Could i seal the holes with kapton tape so keep them clean ?

Thanks

Respondido : 29/09/2016 4:56 pm
Ben
 Ben
(@ben)
Reputable Member
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

Kapton tape all the way. I have not heard of the block upside so I would be interested in hearing what others think.

Respondido : 29/09/2016 5:25 pm
richard.l
(@richard-l)
Miembro Moderator
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

The socks are designed to be used with the heater block in the intended position of the screws facing downward. These will keep the block and nozzle clean.

Also, mounting it upside down will make it harder if you need to change the thermistor or heat cartridge as you would then have to remove the nozzle and block to accomplish the task.

Respondido : 29/09/2016 5:27 pm
PJR
 PJR
(@pjr)
Antient Member Moderator
Re: Please help - Buyers Guide to new V6 Hotend

This is E3D stance on heater block orientation:

The issue with mounting the heater block upside down is that the plastic can cool slightly before it leaves the nozzle due to the distance away from the heater cartridge.

This could potentially cause jamming or de-lamination issues once you start printing.

We always suggest that you mount the heater cartridge lowermost.

Peter

Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…

Respondido : 29/09/2016 5:56 pm
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