Replacement Extruder  

Re: Replacement Extruder

You want the 12v 1.75mm version. I ordered one from Filastruder a couple weeks ago for a different printer and it comes with the new heat block and thermistor. I'm not entirely sure if it will be a drop in replacement for the original since the new heat block is a little bigger. I'm not sure if the printed parts for the part fan or extruder housing need to be redone.

Re: Replacement Extruder

Hi Benjamin,

I literally just went through exactly what your going through. I wasted a ton of money and time trying to figure everything out on my own, but here is everything I found out. As Richard said the new heater-block a slightly longer, however I was able to get everything assembled in my MK2 with no real issues.

1. If you want to buy a whole new hotend here is the link from e3d. I recommend buying it directly from them. I live in the US (Hawaii) and the British pound is cheap compared to US dollars and e3d ships super fast.
Full E3d V6 Hotend (12v)
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Bowden

2. E3D just changed their thermistor to a thermistor cartridge. To use the new thermistor you will need a new heatblock, so you might as well buy the new version thermistor and heat-block. The thermistor cartridge is much better and easier to replace than the old thermistor.
New V6 Heater Block:
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/V6-Sensor-Cartridge-Heater-Block
New V6 Thermistor Cartridge (
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/Thermistor-Cartridge

E3D will send you everything you need to change out your thermistor and heat-block so you dont have to worry about ordering anything else.

3. The most likely reason you are getting a PET leak is you didn't properly seal the nozzle. When you screw the nozzle to the heat-block you hand tighten it till its flush, THEN YOU UNSCREW IT 1/2-3/4 of a TURN. After unscrewing the nozzle half a turn, screw in the heat-break (The long silver tube) into the heater-block so its flush with the heater-block, and it should be hitting up against the nozzle. Then you gently tighten the nozzle back down. FINALLY TIGHTEN the nozzle down with a spanner while the heater-block is HOT. Tightening down the nozzle while the heater-block is hot is what seals the nozzle in from leaks. When the heater-block cools down it will shrink and tighten down on the nozzle.
Here is the E3D assembly instructions:
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

4. Finally, if you are not sure on something you can call E3D or email them. They are very quick to answer the phone and emails.

P.S. I recommend buying a couple extra thermistor cartridge's, heat-breaks, nozzles and heater-blocks in case you have further issues.

I hope this helps you.

~Kaizers

Re: Replacement Extruder

Hi Benjamin,

I literally just went through exactly what your going through. I wasted a ton of money and time trying to figure everything out on my own, but here is everything I found out. As Richard said the new heater-block a slightly longer, however I was able to get everything assembled in my MK2 with no real issues.

1. If you want to buy a whole new hotend here is the link from e3d. I recommend buying it directly from them. I live in the US (Hawaii) and the British pound is cheap compared to US dollars and e3d ships super fast.
Full E3d V6 Hotend (12v)
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-1.75mm-Universal-Bowden

2. E3D just changed their thermistor to a thermistor cartridge. To use the new thermistor you will need a new heatblock, so you might as well buy the new version thermistor and heat-block. The thermistor cartridge is much better and easier to replace than the old thermistor.
New V6 Heater Block:
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/V6-Sensor-Cartridge-Heater-Block
New V6 Thermistor Cartridge (
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/Thermistor-Cartridge

E3D will send you everything you need to change out your thermistor and heat-block so you dont have to worry about ordering anything else.

3. The most likely reason you are getting a PET leak is you didn't properly seal the nozzle. When you screw the nozzle to the heat-block you hand tighten it till its flush, THEN YOU UNSCREW IT 1/2-3/4 of a TURN. After unscrewing the nozzle half a turn, screw in the heat-break (The long silver tube) into the heater-block so its flush with the heater-block, and it should be hitting up against the nozzle. Then you gently tighten the nozzle back down. FINALLY TIGHTEN the nozzle down with a spanner while the heater-block is HOT. Tightening down the nozzle while the heater-block is hot is what seals the nozzle in from leaks. When the heater-block cools down it will shrink and tighten down on the nozzle.
Here is the E3D assembly instructions:
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

4. Finally, if you are not sure on something you can call E3D or email them. They are very quick to answer the phone and emails.

P.S. I recommend buying a couple extra thermistor cartridge's, heat-breaks, nozzles and heater-blocks in case you have further issues.

I hope this helps you.

~Kaizers

Thank you!!! I saw on Filastruder that they were shipping the new style heater block, so can I expect the ones from E3D to be the new style as well?

Re: Replacement Extruder

Thank you!!! I saw on Filastruder that they were shipping the new style heater block, so can I expect the ones from E3D to be the new style as well?

Yes.

Re: Replacement Extruder

Will I need to purchase the Amplifier As well, along with the pt100 sensor and the heater block? also, which heating element do i need to buy?

Re: Replacement Extruder

Ben

You need to thermistor and not thermocouple.

The thermistor comes with the kit and is fine up to temps of 300 degrees. The thermocouple which requires hte amplifies and some firmware mods is for temps over 300.

Peter

Re: Replacement Extruder

Will I need to purchase the Amplifier As well, along with the pt100 sensor and the heater block? also, which heating element do i need to buy?
Don't buy the pt100 sensor. Buy the thermistor.