HDGlass
Hi guys,
I have got massive problems printing HDGlass from Formfutura. Using the PETG Profile in Slic3er leads to massive stringing as I think that the nozzle is getting too hot. Lowering the temperature helps just a little bit. The print is also very unstable and most of the time not sticking to the bed enaugh.
It would be great to have a working profile in Slic3r for that sort of material.
Best begards...
Mirko
Re: HDGlass
Hi Mirko,
apparently it makes a difference what type "HDGlass" you have. I have the "see through red" and have set the nozzle to 240° C - 245° C (with the settings of Formfutura I have no layer adhesion). I have the heating bed at 70 ° C and used window cleaner instead of isopropyl alcohol. For larger objects, it tends to warping.
Retraction: 0,8 - 1,6
lift Z: 0,6
Retraction Speed: 40 - 60
# generated by Slic3r Prusa Edition 1.38.6-prusa3d-win64 on 2018-01-21 at 14:27:38
bed_temperature = 70
bridge_fan_speed = 50
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
cooling = 1
disable_fan_first_layers = 3
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode"
extrusion_multiplier = 1.1
fan_always_on = 1
fan_below_layer_time = 20
filament_colour = #FF8000
filament_cost = 46.65
filament_density = 1.27
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 10
filament_notes = "List of manufacturers tested with standart PET print settings for MK2:\n\nE3D Edge\nFillamentum CPE GH100\nPlasty Mladeč PETG"
filament_settings_id =
filament_soluble = 0
filament_type = PET
first_layer_bed_temperature = 70
first_layer_temperature = 240
max_fan_speed = 80
min_fan_speed = 50
min_print_speed = 5
slowdown_below_layer_time = 10
start_filament_gcode = "M900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}45{endif}; Filament gcode"
temperature = 240
With these settings, I get quite good results
Hope I could help
Mario
Re: HDGlass
With petg, you should use glue stick to create a layer between your PEI bed and your print. It can damage the PEI if you don't.
Re: HDGlass
Thanks for your help. I fell sick so sorry for the late reply.
Did not know that I had to use the glue stick for petg.
In fact I got the black one from form Futura and I think I gonna try you adjustments Mario.
Best regards...
Mirko
Re: HDGlass
Your issues remind me my first tries with HDGlass.
The keys to good bed adhesion is:
I advise you to make the extrusion width, the width you have in the slicer. I found, particularly with PETG including HDGlass, I got bad layer adhesion. When I fixed the extrusion width it was much much better. You can give it a try.
The Prusa MK2 is delivered with quite some underextrusion. I suspect Prusa prefers underextrusion to overextrusion as it looks nicer. You could follow that to calibrate: https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/
Or simply print the 25mm cube or better a rectangle ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2657308 ) and adjust the flow. Perhaps you will find the 1.1 extrusion multiplier of mario.f4
My latest settings for HDglass where:
I wouldn't take that as good ones as I used it quite a long time ago and I didn't try to improve it with my current knowledge.
Next steps are:
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-i3-kit-building-calibrating-first-print-main-f6/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-i3-kit-building-calibrating-first-print-main-f6/hyperfine-bed-leveling--t4330.html
😉
Re: HDGlass
Hi Mirko,
apparently it makes a difference what type "HDGlass" you have. I have the "see through red" and have set the nozzle to 240° C - 245° C (with the settings of Formfutura I have no layer adhesion). I have the heating bed at 70 ° C and used window cleaner instead of isopropyl alcohol. For larger objects, it tends to warping.
Retraction: 0,8 - 1,6
lift Z: 0,6
Retraction Speed: 40 - 60
# generated by Slic3r Prusa Edition 1.38.6-prusa3d-win64 on 2018-01-21 at 14:27:38
bed_temperature = 70
bridge_fan_speed = 50
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
cooling = 1
disable_fan_first_layers = 3
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode"
extrusion_multiplier = 1.1
fan_always_on = 1
fan_below_layer_time = 20
filament_colour = #FF8000
filament_cost = 46.65
filament_density = 1.27
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 10
filament_notes = "List of manufacturers tested with standart PET print settings for MK2:\n\nE3D Edge\nFillamentum CPE GH100\nPlasty Mladeč PETG"
filament_settings_id =
filament_soluble = 0
filament_type = PET
first_layer_bed_temperature = 70
first_layer_temperature = 240
max_fan_speed = 80
min_fan_speed = 50
min_print_speed = 5
slowdown_below_layer_time = 10
start_filament_gcode = "M900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}45{endif}; Filament gcode"
temperature = 240
With these settings, I get quite good results
Hope I could help
Mario
I have the Orange, good color match for prusa parts, MK3 owner.
First i tried the Prusa PET, it works but i guess not optimal, i have printed temp tower from 240 to 200ºc. Results near the same in every temperature range with minor changes to the eye, also it stick to bed strongly. I notice that layers are not comming with the required layer height so i check the extrusion, for me the multiplier is 1.04.... 1.1 as you use works too and layer comeout more color alive and thick but not optimal for me. What i have notice is MK3 is more precise on extrusion, maybe due new bontech because some of my old profiles for MK2S no longer match, for example some PLA brands that i have no longer need a changed multiplier, thats good.
Now i'm printing upgraded parts with your profile with very good results, i only have changed bed temperature for others layers +5ºc, multiplier and cost 😀
I have printed lot of tests using different settings and your profile wins! Thank you 🙂