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mirko.b
(@mirko-b)
New Member
HDGlass

Hi guys,

I have got massive problems printing HDGlass from Formfutura. Using the PETG Profile in Slic3er leads to massive stringing as I think that the nozzle is getting too hot. Lowering the temperature helps just a little bit. The print is also very unstable and most of the time not sticking to the bed enaugh.
It would be great to have a working profile in Slic3r for that sort of material.

Best begards...

Mirko

Posted : 28/01/2018 9:58 pm
Primermecos
(@primermecos)
Eminent Member
Re: HDGlass

Hi Mirko,

apparently it makes a difference what type "HDGlass" you have. I have the "see through red" and have set the nozzle to 240° C - 245° C (with the settings of Formfutura I have no layer adhesion). I have the heating bed at 70 ° C and used window cleaner instead of isopropyl alcohol. For larger objects, it tends to warping.

Retraction: 0,8 - 1,6
lift Z: 0,6
Retraction Speed: 40 - 60


# generated by Slic3r Prusa Edition 1.38.6-prusa3d-win64 on 2018-01-21 at 14:27:38
bed_temperature = 70
bridge_fan_speed = 50
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
cooling = 1
disable_fan_first_layers = 3
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode"
extrusion_multiplier = 1.1
fan_always_on = 1
fan_below_layer_time = 20
filament_colour = #FF8000
filament_cost = 46.65
filament_density = 1.27
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 10
filament_notes = "List of manufacturers tested with standart PET print settings for MK2:\n\nE3D Edge\nFillamentum CPE GH100\nPlasty Mladeč PETG"
filament_settings_id =
filament_soluble = 0
filament_type = PET
first_layer_bed_temperature = 70
first_layer_temperature = 240
max_fan_speed = 80
min_fan_speed = 50
min_print_speed = 5
slowdown_below_layer_time = 10
start_filament_gcode = "M900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}45{endif}; Filament gcode"
temperature = 240

With these settings, I get quite good results

Hope I could help

Mario

Posted : 28/01/2018 11:42 pm
durand.r
(@durand-r)
Eminent Member
Re: HDGlass

With petg, you should use glue stick to create a layer between your PEI bed and your print. It can damage the PEI if you don't.

Posted : 30/01/2018 6:03 pm
mirko.b
(@mirko-b)
New Member
Topic starter answered:
Re: HDGlass

Thanks for your help. I fell sick so sorry for the late reply.
Did not know that I had to use the glue stick for petg.
In fact I got the black one from form Futura and I think I gonna try you adjustments Mario.

Best regards...

Mirko

Posted : 03/02/2018 6:26 pm
ron
 ron
(@ron)
Estimable Member
Re: HDGlass

Your issues remind me my first tries with HDGlass.

The keys to good bed adhesion is:

  • Proper Live adjust Z. If you change back and forth from per example PLA or ABS you will encounter many issues as the bed temp is different and the PINDA sensor see the bed at a different height. Test the joined custom V2Calibration gcode for PETG to adjust your Live adjust Z and remember it each time you choose HDGlass.

  • Print first layer slow. Now I print usually from 17 to 22mm/s.

  • If you clean with IPA, you will have no more issues. It could be problematic for parts with large flat surface as PETG stick very well to PEI.
  • I advise you to make the extrusion width, the width you have in the slicer. I found, particularly with PETG including HDGlass, I got bad layer adhesion. When I fixed the extrusion width it was much much better. You can give it a try.
    The Prusa MK2 is delivered with quite some underextrusion. I suspect Prusa prefers underextrusion to overextrusion as it looks nicer. You could follow that to calibrate: https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/
    Or simply print the 25mm cube or better a rectangle ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2657308 ) and adjust the flow. Perhaps you will find the 1.1 extrusion multiplier of mario.f4
    My latest settings for HDglass where:

  • Extruder: 220°C

  • Bed: 70°C

  • Extrusion multiplier: 1.11

  • Cooling 30 to 50%

  • I wouldn't take that as good ones as I used it quite a long time ago and I didn't try to improve it with my current knowledge.

    Next steps are:
    https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-i3-kit-building-calibrating-first-print-main-f6/life-adjust-z-my-way-t2981.html
    https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/prusa-i3-kit-building-calibrating-first-print-main-f6/hyperfine-bed-leveling--t4330.html
    😉

    Posted : 05/02/2018 1:48 am
    Tiago
    (@tiago)
    Reputable Member
    Re: HDGlass


    Hi Mirko,

    apparently it makes a difference what type "HDGlass" you have. I have the "see through red" and have set the nozzle to 240° C - 245° C (with the settings of Formfutura I have no layer adhesion). I have the heating bed at 70 ° C and used window cleaner instead of isopropyl alcohol. For larger objects, it tends to warping.

    Retraction: 0,8 - 1,6
    lift Z: 0,6
    Retraction Speed: 40 - 60


    # generated by Slic3r Prusa Edition 1.38.6-prusa3d-win64 on 2018-01-21 at 14:27:38
    bed_temperature = 70
    bridge_fan_speed = 50
    compatible_printers =
    compatible_printers_condition =
    cooling = 1
    disable_fan_first_layers = 3
    end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode"
    extrusion_multiplier = 1.1
    fan_always_on = 1
    fan_below_layer_time = 20
    filament_colour = #FF8000
    filament_cost = 46.65
    filament_density = 1.27
    filament_diameter = 1.75
    filament_max_volumetric_speed = 10
    filament_notes = "List of manufacturers tested with standart PET print settings for MK2:\n\nE3D Edge\nFillamentum CPE GH100\nPlasty Mladeč PETG"
    filament_settings_id =
    filament_soluble = 0
    filament_type = PET
    first_layer_bed_temperature = 70
    first_layer_temperature = 240
    max_fan_speed = 80
    min_fan_speed = 50
    min_print_speed = 5
    slowdown_below_layer_time = 10
    start_filament_gcode = "M900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}45{endif}; Filament gcode"
    temperature = 240

    With these settings, I get quite good results

    Hope I could help

    Mario

    I have the Orange, good color match for prusa parts, MK3 owner.
    First i tried the Prusa PET, it works but i guess not optimal, i have printed temp tower from 240 to 200ºc. Results near the same in every temperature range with minor changes to the eye, also it stick to bed strongly. I notice that layers are not comming with the required layer height so i check the extrusion, for me the multiplier is 1.04.... 1.1 as you use works too and layer comeout more color alive and thick but not optimal for me. What i have notice is MK3 is more precise on extrusion, maybe due new bontech because some of my old profiles for MK2S no longer match, for example some PLA brands that i have no longer need a changed multiplier, thats good.

    Now i'm printing upgraded parts with your profile with very good results, i only have changed bed temperature for others layers +5ºc, multiplier and cost 😀
    I have printed lot of tests using different settings and your profile wins! Thank you 🙂

    Posted : 13/02/2018 6:46 pm
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