First things to print for MK2?!
Hi all, please don't jump on me for this and I am looking through the forum! I was hoping for your thoughts on the first items I should print for the new MK2? Add-on's, upgrades etc. I wanted to put one of my printers to use while I wait for the MK2 to arrive by making some things for it that would be good to do.
Are there other upgrades you guys would recommend right off such as fans, bearings etc?
I still have so much to read on the forums here so thank you for indulging me!!
W
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Hi
Personally, I have quite a few spares on my shelves:
Part Fans
Nozzles
PTFE tube
Complete extruder kit
Extruder socks
Linear Bearings
If you don't have it, you will need it; if you do, you won't (very often).
As for printed parts, that is something I have never needed, except for when I mod one of them.
Peter
Please note: I do not have any affiliation with Prusa Research. Any advices given are offered in good faith. It is your responsibility to ensure that by following my advice you do not suffer or cause injury, damage…
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Sounds about right for my other printers! Always have a complete extruder setup with steppers ready to go! Plus all the other goodies!
I skimmed a few posts and noticed talk about bearings. Are there upgrade bearings that are worth looking at or are the supplied ones just fine? I figure if there are some parts like that, that would benefit from an upgrade then best to do it during initial assembly.
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Are there other upgrades you guys would recommend right off such as fans, bearings etc?
Buy a set of the E3D socks. Cheap, and will help you if you need to print above 220C with the run operating at high speed. http://www.filastruder.com/products/silicone-socks-3-pack
A number of people have had problems with wide prints causing the spool feed to go over the side of the spool, and causing a mess. This can be solved by a filament guide. There are many out there to print. I printed this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1688923 created by one of the forum participants.
I also printed the Prusa Research Anti-vibration feet. http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/#_ga=1.77512149.1794524405.1468079777
The image is misleading, as it should be printed as just the perimeters - no infill.
The bearings for some people are fine. For others, they are loose, and/or cause a great deal of noise. I'm not sure of the best solution here, but two options seem to be: a) just try more/different LM8UU bearings, or b) try the IGUS Drylin bearings: https://folgertech.com/products/igus-rj4jp-01-08-8mm-linear-bearing-to-replace-lm8uu
John
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Are there other upgrades you guys would recommend right off such as fans, bearings etc?
Buy a set of the E3D socks. Cheap, and will help you if you need to print above 220C with the run operating at high speed. http://www.filastruder.com/products/silicone-socks-3-pack
A number of people have had problems with wide prints causing the spool feed to go over the side of the spool, and causing a mess. This can be solved by a filament guide. There are many out there to print. I printed this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1688923 created by one of the forum participants.
I also printed the Prusa Research Anti-vibration feet. http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/#_ga=1.77512149.1794524405.1468079777
The image is misleading, as it should be printed as just the perimeters - no infill.
The bearings for some people are fine. For others, they are loose, and/or cause a great deal of noise. I'm not sure of the best solution here, but two options seem to be: a) just try more/different LM8UU bearings, or b) try the IGUS Drylin bearings: https://folgertech.com/products/igus-rj4jp-01-08-8mm-linear-bearing-to-replace-lm8uu
John
For me, I changed out my LM8UU bearings on my Y-axis for some SKF LBBR 8-2LS bearings. They are slightly stiffer and cover more surface area on the linear rods. The old ones gained too much slop from multiple misalignment issues.
There are all sorts of modifications and improvements that can be done to the MK2. Here are some of my highlights:
and an 8 inch (200mm) or greater caliper is recommended.
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Yeah, shameless advertisment: Print my Spool holder !
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1688923
🙂 🙂 🙂
(And very nice list from ayourk)
I'm like Jon Snow, I know nothing.
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Awesome info everyone! Thank you very much!! I am curious to see if I can adapt my dry box set up to work with this printer. It will be perfect for the 4 color option since it holds 5 spools. I can put up a pic later when I get home.
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Are there other upgrades you guys would recommend right off such as fans, bearings etc?
Buy a set of the E3D socks. Cheap, and will help you if you need to print above 220C with the run operating at high speed. http://www.filastruder.com/products/silicone-socks-3-pack
A number of people have had problems with wide prints causing the spool feed to go over the side of the spool, and causing a mess. This can be solved by a filament guide. There are many out there to print. I printed this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1688923 created by one of the forum participants.
I also printed the Prusa Research Anti-vibration feet. http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/#_ga=1.77512149.1794524405.1468079777
The image is misleading, as it should be printed as just the perimeters - no infill.
The bearings for some people are fine. For others, they are loose, and/or cause a great deal of noise. I'm not sure of the best solution here, but two options seem to be: a) just try more/different LM8UU bearings, or b) try the IGUS Drylin bearings: https://folgertech.com/products/igus-rj4jp-01-08-8mm-linear-bearing-to-replace-lm8uu
John
For me, I changed out my LM8UU bearings on my Y-axis for some SKF LBBR 8-2LS bearings. They are slightly stiffer and cover more surface area on the linear rods. The old ones gained too much slop from multiple misalignment issues.
There are all sorts of modifications and improvements that can be done to the MK2. Here are some of my highlights:
Thanks for all of the info. I looked at the bearings, $30 each!! WOW.
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Are there other upgrades you guys would recommend right off such as fans, bearings etc?
Buy a set of the E3D socks. Cheap, and will help you if you need to print above 220C with the run operating at high speed. http://www.filastruder.com/products/silicone-socks-3-pack
A number of people have had problems with wide prints causing the spool feed to go over the side of the spool, and causing a mess. This can be solved by a filament guide. There are many out there to print. I printed this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1688923 created by one of the forum participants.
I also printed the Prusa Research Anti-vibration feet. http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/#_ga=1.77512149.1794524405.1468079777
The image is misleading, as it should be printed as just the perimeters - no infill.
The bearings for some people are fine. For others, they are loose, and/or cause a great deal of noise. I'm not sure of the best solution here, but two options seem to be: a) just try more/different LM8UU bearings, or b) try the IGUS Drylin bearings: https://folgertech.com/products/igus-rj4jp-01-08-8mm-linear-bearing-to-replace-lm8uu
John
For me, I changed out my LM8UU bearings on my Y-axis for some SKF LBBR 8-2LS bearings. They are slightly stiffer and cover more surface area on the linear rods. The old ones gained too much slop from multiple misalignment issues.
There are all sorts of modifications and improvements that can be done to the MK2. Here are some of my highlights:
Is there a file for the alignment sticks where the items are separate? It is to big dimensionally as one file to print on my other printer.
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Is there a file for the alignment sticks where the items are separate? It is to big dimensionally as one file to print on my other printer.
If you are using TinkerCAD, you can copy my project, open up the project, select each model individually then select Download for 3D printing and put a check mark in the check box of selected model only.
If you use Simplify3D, you can use Mesh --> Separate Connected Surfaces.
and an 8 inch (200mm) or greater caliper is recommended.
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Is there a file for the alignment sticks where the items are separate? It is to big dimensionally as one file to print on my other printer.
If you are using TinkerCAD, you can copy my project, open up the project, select each model individually then select Download for 3D printing and put a check mark in the check box of selected model only.
If you use Simplify3D, you can use Mesh --> Separate Connected Surfaces.
Cool, thanks for the info.
Also I was trying to figure this out in S3D. I knew I had read about it somewhere. Thanks.
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
The nuts will get loose. Once the printer delivers consistent quality, apply glue or locktight to all the nuts.
For stepper motor pulleys, I apply locktight on set screw and front of pulley and the motor shaft.
This is the anti-vibration foot.
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
The nuts will get loose. Once the printer delivers consistent quality, apply glue or locktight to all the nuts.
For stepper motor pulleys, I apply locktight on set screw and front of pulley and the motor shaft.
Do you loosen the nuts to get Loctite under them, or just on the outside, and hope it holds, or drips into the threads under the nuts?
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Do you loosen the nuts to get Loctite under them, or just on the outside, and hope it holds, or drips into the threads under the nuts?
Loctite only hardens when there is no more air around. So you should loosen them, apply it and tighten it.
You could try otherwise but I would not expect it to be working as it is supposed to be.
Re: First things to print for MK2?!
Do you loosen the nuts to get Loctite under them, or just on the outside, and hope it holds, or drips into the threads under the nuts?
Loctite only hardens when there is no more air around. So you should loosen them, apply it and tighten it.
You could try otherwise but I would not expect it to be working as it is supposed to be.
Correct. Loctite is an anaerobic adhesive and does not need air to set.
That said, there are wicking grades of loctite such as Loctite Green that can be applied to the edge of the nut after its tight.